I think that's a resistor to cut down on the in-rush current.
glow plug harness design?
- Thread starter Greg5OH
- Start date
I think that's a resistor to cut down on the in-rush current.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
But I'm pretty sure it's referred to as the shunt.
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Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
There should NOT have to be any BUTTE connectors in the harness. Any connection should be soldered. The fuse should be at the point of power supply because the wire should be always hot. Like, battery-- fuse-wire to GP relay with a soldered ring connector on the end to the relay input terminal--relay--relay output terminal (both) wires connected with soldered rings-- each wire to a GP should be wrapped around the main lead wire and soldered, use shrink wrap on each connection. To use the shrink wrap, it has to be put on the supply wire first, then the GP wire soldered on, lay about one inch of the insulated wire against the supply wire and push the shrink wrap over it, then shrink it. Repeat for the next three. Sure hope your using copper wire and not aluminum.
Runningaford
Registered User
I agree with Oldbull in regards to the solder, but you first want to make your connection mechanically tight, so as to hold together without the solder, then solder. I think the reason for this is that it's possible that the solder wouldn't hold with repeated heating up/melting.
yes real copper wire, made in USA bought from local supplier.
So how do I get it mechanically tight, 4 10 awg wires to one 6 awg wire? Im always interested in learning better methods.
Just dont see ho wheat shrink will work with 4 wires coming out of one end..?
So how do I get it mechanically tight, 4 10 awg wires to one 6 awg wire? Im always interested in learning better methods.
Just dont see ho wheat shrink will work with 4 wires coming out of one end..?
Honestly, I would probably redo it to have the lines come off short at the GP instead of the octopus thing. Then you could do this:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-Heat-Shrink-Tee/
About the best you can do is to solder the joints, add a dab of liquid electrical tape and then heat shrink it down. I really don't know of a good way to conceal what you have either. I would start by soldering the connections and then if it solves the problem, a dab of liquid electrical tape right at the joint and then heat shrink up the individual wires with a bigger one coming and overlapping from the single wire side. Maybe clean it up with some wire loom where you pop the wires out at the GP's.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-Heat-Shrink-Tee/
About the best you can do is to solder the joints, add a dab of liquid electrical tape and then heat shrink it down. I really don't know of a good way to conceal what you have either. I would start by soldering the connections and then if it solves the problem, a dab of liquid electrical tape right at the joint and then heat shrink up the individual wires with a bigger one coming and overlapping from the single wire side. Maybe clean it up with some wire loom where you pop the wires out at the GP's.
when connecting 4 wires together, i usually cut the crimp ends off of say, an eye connector.
crimp all of the wires into it, then solder.
it makes for a cleaner solder.
and no "********" to deal with.
(the strands that tend to poke out and find its way into your finger)
sometimes a couple of different sizes of heat shrink is needed
crimp all of the wires into it, then solder.
it makes for a cleaner solder.
and no "********" to deal with.
(the strands that tend to poke out and find its way into your finger)
sometimes a couple of different sizes of heat shrink is needed
thanks for that T heat shrink link! I like that and will give it a try.
I will also redo it to get away from the octopus arms. Avoids that one huge joint.
If the application really did call to have 4 or more wires connect to one main wire, a distribution block should be used I assume?
I will also redo it to get away from the octopus arms. Avoids that one huge joint.
If the application really did call to have 4 or more wires connect to one main wire, a distribution block should be used I assume?
That would probably be the cleanest. Solder ring terminals on then bolt them all together supposing the terminals and block were rated for that kind of power. There are marine ones out there I've looked at for stuff like that. It's like using the hot post on the starter relay.
