Fuel Leak & Crooked Bed

[RANOVRU]

So I found a leak coming from the rubber hose on the 2nd injector from front on the drivers side. What kind of hose do I need to get, just regular fuel line? Also what size is it and will I need to bleed the system after replacing?

Second thing is I just noticed today after riding through the extremely bumpy city that the gap between the cab and bed on the drivers side is way bigger than it should be. Passenger side is fine. The bed doesn't feel loose and it definitely wasn't like this yesterday. I washed it yesterday and would've noticed. Any ideas on what in the heck could've caused this?

 

[93f250idi]

1/4" fuel hose and 2 new hose clamps. the factory ones wont go over the 1/4 hose.

 

[Diesel_brad]

So I found a leak coming from the rubber hose on the 2nd injector from front on the drivers side. What kind of hose do I need to get, just regular fuel line? Also what size is it and will I need to bleed the system after replacing?

Second thing is I just noticed today after riding through the extremely bumpy city that the gap between the cab and bed on the drivers side is way bigger than it should be. Passenger side is fine. The bed doesn't feel loose and it definitely wasn't like this yesterday. I washed it yesterday and would've noticed. Any ideas on what in the heck could've caused this?

Do yourself a favor and just buy the return line kit. It comes with all the hose you need and new clamps along with new caps and O-rings. if one hose is leaking the others are not far behind. And consider it preventative maintaince.
Here> http://www.o-f-i.com/index.php?pid=16#INJECTION_PUMPS_IDI and scroll down till INJECTOR RETURN TEE KITS 6.9L, 7.3L IDI

As for your bed moving. Check the bed mounting bolts AND the cab mounts

 

[RANOVRU]

Thanks fellas.

Brad ill probably just do a temp fix on that one line until I can get that kit. It's a steady drip even couple seconds and I keep getting images of the truck bursting into flames driving it the way it is. Until kit comes in I want to fix that one line. Heck I'm pretty sure I've got 1/4 in and clamps lying around the garage.
What about bleeding the system will that need to be done for either the single line replacement or the new kit?

 

[Diesel_brad]

What about bleeding the system will that need to be done for either the single line replacement or the new kit?

No bleeding. It is only the return line, so I'f you are quick you will not even make a mess

 

[RANOVRU]

Alrighty, thanks.


Since everyone likes pics I took a few.

Valve cover time...

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Leaky line..

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Still havent made heads or tails of the body gap.

Pass side...

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Driver side...

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Nothing looks out of proportion except that one side. A shot from the rear...

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While we're on the subject, Im guessing the fuel filter assembley and the plate alt all have to come off on the pass side valve cover? Its not leaking at the moment and it does look ike a bear compared to the driver side so Imm just going to hold onto the other gasket for now.

Also, once I find a complete set of decent injectors Im going to change those out. Question is are the hardlines bendable to move them out of the way or will they break?

 

[hesutton]

Still havent made heads or tails of the body gap.

Pass side...

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Have you had a good look at the body mount bushings? They get old and start to sag letting the body lines between the cab and the bed misalign. The bed doesn't have the rubber bushings and will not really change with time. The cab mounts wear out and change with time.

Heath

 

[RANOVRU]

Have you had a good look at the body mount bushings? They get old and start to sag letting the body lines between the cab and the bed misalign. The bed doesn't have the rubber bushings and will not really change with time. The cab mounts wear out and change with time.

Heath

Yup. Checked the cab mounts forward. Nothing looks abnormal.

Looks like if I did need to replace them though the front tanks gotta come out to get to the driver rear...yay!

 

[Diesel_brad]

Have you had a good look at the body mount bushings? They get old and start to sag letting the body lines between the cab and the bed misalign. The bed doesn't have the rubber bushings and will not really change with time. The cab mounts wear out and change with time.

Heath

I'm with Heath. Your body bushings are TOAST. Time for some Energy Suspension ones

 

[hesutton]

Here's my experience changing them out.

Don't know if it will help or not.

CLICK HERE

Heath

 

[RANOVRU]

Everything looks good underneath, no build up nice & shiney. At least on this side.

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Anyone know the factory TQ specs for the VC bolts?

 

[RANOVRU]

I'm with Heath. Your body bushings are TOAST. Time for some Energy Suspension ones

I can try to take some pics underneath but theres not a lot of room there. I can see them fne but I dont know if I could get a decent shot. Im telling you though, they look fine. I checked all of them. To be honest they look like theyve been changed. Definately dont look like they have 260k+ on them.

 

[RANOVRU]

Here's my experience changing them out.

Don't know if it will help or not.

CLICK HERE

Heath

Thanks for the link thats a nice write up.

Mine dont look anything like your old ones as far as the shape theyre in.

 

[hesutton]

Thanks for the link thats a nice write up.

Mine dont look anything like your old ones as far as the shape theyre in.

Mine were an extreme example. 25+ years and 322K+ miles will take it's toll eh?

Heath

 

[Diesel_brad]

Anyone know the factory TQ specs for the VC bolts?

1/4" bolts get torqued to 7ft/lbs

Im telling you though, they look fine. I checked all of them. To be honest they look like theyve been changed. Definately dont look like they have 260k+ on them.

Telling you. The ONLY way for the cab to sit lower than the bed is either worn cab bushings or a rotten cab mount. I highly doubt your frame is rusting in VA