Fresh Reman Engine Ticking

Hydro-idi

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forgive my ignorance, but did you pay the extra fee for the actual explanation of all the factors and results, or is this just the basic labs?
last time I talked with them was in 02' they said get the full report first time then you can get the basic analysis and watch your #'s from there.
it don't look like any way off #'s in the report.
good luck cb

When I talked to blackstone & told them my situation, they recommended the regular oil report, so that's what I went with. At this point, I could care less about what the report says. Something is wrong and we are going to get down to the bottom of this. We are going to find out what the real problem is when the machine shop tears er down in the next coming days.
 

idiabuse

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I had a tick as well it turned out to be a beat up piston top and a cracked cylinder yay! and I fixed it all too!
Took a few tries to get out all the kinks :backoff

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Hydro-idi

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I had a tick as well it turned out to be a beat up piston top and a cracked cylinder yay! and I fixed it all too!
Took a few tries to get out all the kinks :backoff

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[/QUOTE

Where was crack located??
 

idiabuse

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Cracked cylinder 3rd one back right side, some tiny piece of metal fell into the intake and munched my 7000 mile old IDI and I did it all over again for the 3rd time.
 

Hydro-idi

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I went by the machine shop yesterday to drop off valve stem seals. So here's the scoop.
They tore down & hot tanked short block. They checked rod & main bearings, crankshaft, all rods & wrist pins, bores, pistons, etc. & everything is within spec. He did mention that the rings didn't have much tension & will be honing out cylinders & installing new rings when he puts it back together.
Now the heads are another story. Almost every valve seat has a crack in it that extends into combustion area on head, valves were previously ground down too much & have a knife edge on them. Some of the exhaust valves are starting to mushroom. All 8 precups cracked. All guides are shot & have side-side play.
When the previous guy took .020 off, that was too much material, making the seats & valves way too thin. Now I can say that the egts did get high, but I don't think this should have been the result. I got the egts high previously with old engine & there wasn't any damage to heads.
So what I have now are two 90 lb boat anchors. I have one spare head that the shop is going to check out on Monday but am on the lookout for another. Fun isn't it.
 

icanfixall

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Really sorry this saga continues to plague you this way. But mistakes were made and you have figured them out.. This too will pass. Keep moving forwards.
 

Hydro-idi

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Unfortunately this ridiculous saga continues.
I found 2 more 6.9 heads up in the Sacramento area today and went by the machine shop to drop them off. When I walked in, the owner gave me the "ready for more ****?" look and brought me over to my spare head that I had them check out. Turns out that one is cracked as well. So, the 3 that I had are garbage and going to the scrap yard. I'm hoping the 2 that I dropped off today check out ok, but I'm not getting my hopes up on this thing anymore. There's the latest & greatest news.
 

typ4

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Make sure he checks rod length. Also ask if he has a rod BORING machine. You can get ,6 thou shorter by offset boring the bushings.
 

homelessduck

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I have a head just sitting here. If it's worth $20 and the drive you can have it. I will drop it off at the machine shop to get checked out before you make the drive. The $20 is what it costs me to have them checked out. I live in Medford, OR
 

Hydro-idi

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I have a head just sitting here. If it's worth $20 and the drive you can have it. I will drop it off at the machine shop to get checked out before you make the drive. The $20 is what it costs me to have them checked out. I live in Medford, OR

Thanks for the offer. I really appreciate that. It might come down to that if these ones are cracked & if I can't find anymore in my area. We will find out in a couple days when machine shop checks them out.
 

Hydro-idi

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Make sure he checks rod length. Also ask if he has a rod BORING machine. You can get ,6 thou shorter by offset boring the bushings.

I'm pretty sure I saw a rod boring machine at their shop today. Will ask about that when I go back. Thanks
 

Hydro-idi

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Got a call from machine shop today. Turns out the other 2 heads are also cracked like the other 3, but not as bad. He said that he is able to fix cracks by drilling & pinning them. So, I'm going to let him do that. I'm tired of driving all around picking up these heads that are all cracked anyways. I even talked to Mel who said it's very rare to come by a set that isn't cracked.
Heads will get cleaned up & milled, new exhaust & intake valves, new precups, new guides, the works.
While short block is apart, I'm having them install all new rings, bearings & bushings. They are also going to polish crank & hone cylinders for new rings going in. Owner said the bearing kit that the previous rebuilder used was an overseas kit that wasn't reputable, so out they come & in with the new made in USA.
 

Hydro-idi

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Hey fellas, I know its been a while since I last posted on my reman engine thread. Work is picking up and my engine was at machine shop for quite a while.
I did get the short block & heads back a couple weeks ago. Sooo, here's the scoop.

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Here are the cylinder heads. I had machine shop install all new pre-cups, guides, valves, seals, the works. Re-used the comp 910 springs. These cylinder heads also had a few minor cracks in them, so I had owner lock & stitch all cracks before calling them good. Made double sure that he kept everything within spec & felt that they did an excellent job with them. Hell, they even bagged & painted them before I picked them up ;Sweet!

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Here is a pic of the short block. Man did they do a great job with this. I had them do a complete rebuild, making sure everything was within spec during teardown & rebuilding. This included block magging to check for cracks, balancing/polishing of crank, new piston rings, honed cylinders, rods were taken apart & machined on both big and short end, new wrist pin bushings, all new bearings & cam bushings, new connecting rod cap bolts (don't know where he found these but he did), new OEM cam, etc. I'm sure that I missed something but this is all I can remember at the moment.
The owner of machine shop also included 3 gallons of Schaffers 7000 series 15w-40 semi syn oil and told me to run it after the first 50 mile oil change has been completed. I got Delo in it now during initial startup. I told him....I will run whatever kind of snake oil you want me to in this engine....as long as it doesnt end up like the pervious one :rolleyes:.

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Here's a pic of the engine during assembly. Got cylinder heads on & torqued down.

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Another pic of engine almost completely assembled. Only thing is missing here is the the Moose pump which is now a mini moose. I sent it back to Mel & had him de-tune it to stock settings. After experiencing lots of black smoke & very high egt's, I feel that this was a good choice. I got the IP on after I took this pic.

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Got the engine up & off the ground using Rich's 2 ton engine stand. Needed dad's help for this one. I did not remove the front clip, so I lifted engine to max lift & let air out of tires so it would clear. This is the second time I have done this & makes me a little concerned when I have a 1k engine dangling 7ft in the air LOL. Got er done with no problems.

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4 hours later, here it is. Done this so many times that it's almost second nature by now. Also gotta love the porter cable impact wrench I got for X-mas. Makes everything so much easier & used it on my entire assembly.
I have a few more things to button up but it is ready for the most part. Cross your fingers this one isn't a -cuss like the last one was.
 

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