Just an up date as I see this on the Web when looking for trouble like I'm having.
I replaced the fuel pressure regulator as it would not hold pressure for 5 minutes after shut down. Easy to change, just remove the snap ring, pry up the old regulator, press in the new. I did find a lot of what looked like fine rust in the old one. Made it run a little better. Even tho the running pressure showed good.
I kept getting a DTC code P1121, which is TPS is not compatible with the MAF. Cleaned the MAF as it was a little dirty. Didn't help much.
Finely just replaced the MAF sensor, now it runs without stalling, at least for 30 minutes idling, speeding up, it will return to idle speed without stalling like it did before. Still have to make a run today. But I think I finely got all the bad things fixed.
The MAF sensor must have been defective, even tho the voltage output was correct, .90 VDC and run up to 3.40 VDC when speeding up.
If you have to replace the MAF, mine had the Torx screw with the *** in it, you have to get the Torx with the little hole in it.
I replaced the fuel pressure regulator as it would not hold pressure for 5 minutes after shut down. Easy to change, just remove the snap ring, pry up the old regulator, press in the new. I did find a lot of what looked like fine rust in the old one. Made it run a little better. Even tho the running pressure showed good.
I kept getting a DTC code P1121, which is TPS is not compatible with the MAF. Cleaned the MAF as it was a little dirty. Didn't help much.
Finely just replaced the MAF sensor, now it runs without stalling, at least for 30 minutes idling, speeding up, it will return to idle speed without stalling like it did before. Still have to make a run today. But I think I finely got all the bad things fixed.
The MAF sensor must have been defective, even tho the voltage output was correct, .90 VDC and run up to 3.40 VDC when speeding up.
If you have to replace the MAF, mine had the Torx screw with the *** in it, you have to get the Torx with the little hole in it.