For all of the alignment experts out there...

[DaytonaBill]

Just found this about the differences between Dodge and Fords...


"The newer Ford truck suspensions have pinch bolts which simplifies removal of the ball joint bushings. But do not assume the OE bushing has a zero degree offset. Many have 1 to 1-1/2 degrees of offset, usually in the camber direction. So if camber/caster corrections are needed, note the marking stamped on the OE bushing when it is removed so you can determine how much additional correction is needed. The first set of numbers stamped on the sleeve indicate the amount of caster, and the second set of numbers indicates camber. Subtract the numbers from your alignment readings to determine how much additional correction is needed."...

In the Dodge world, they're from another planet...

On the 4WD trucks, camber is preset at the factory. On the Dana 60 axle, the ball joints have a zero degree steel bushing, but on the Dana 44 axles there is no bushing. Though Dodge says no camber adjustment is available on either the Dana 44 or Dana 60 front axles, there are aftermarket offset bushings for the Dana 60 axle and offset ball joints for the Dana 44 axle.

Just food for thought...

 

[79jasper]

Well just because dodge has a D60, doesn't mean it's the exact same axle.
And using the level like that isn't accurate.
Unless you have 150 psi in the tires to where they aren't bulging at the bottom.
I would use a steel wheel with no tire mounted on it.

Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk

 

[DaytonaBill]

Yeah, I knew that...

When I get the spindles off both knuckles, I'll be able to put the digital angle finder on the recessed shoulder where the spindle sat and see what I've got in reality before I tear it the rest of the way down... I can hardly wait to see what I find...

I figure that when I put it all back together again with all new bushings, ball joints and reconnect the steering linkage, I will find everything changed.

I'm going to use the spindle shoulder on the knuckle again to set the castor and recheck the camber. I don't think the castor will be changed, but the camber surely will. I believe I can go ahead and set the toe in before I put the rest of it back together.

 

[Bashby]

The pinch bolt ford uses is on the ttb, I think f150 only, not the d60. You could use the level with the wheels off the ground to eliminate the tire bulge problem. Rotate the tires and check it in a few spots to compensate for runout. Of course this would be the time to check for play in the wheel bearings and ball joints. When you get your angle finder you could just remove your lockout hubs then you'd have a pretty good spot to check camber with the wheels on or off. I suppose a torpedo level would work also. If you remove the spindle first, you are going to have the studs in your way so it might be hard to get a reading there. It's been a long time since I checked caster manually. I don't know how you could check it with just an angle gauge, I've always had a set of turntables to set the front wheels on.

 

[DaytonaBill]

The digital angle finder measures 2" by 2" by 1" and is magnetic. It's accurate to one tenth of one degree, but it still has to be zeroed. I have a laser and some metal stock I can set up in a bench vise to provide the means to ensure that the angle finder is dead on.

As for the 20° each way from 0 for castor measurement,

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To measure on the floor to get exactly 20 degrees of steering, cut a 30-inch piece of 1x6-inch wood, or a similar straight, flat piece, and lay it against the tire. Mark midway on the wood (15 inches) and line that up with the center of the hub. Mark the outside corner of each end of the wood. Turn the steering wheel until the ends have moved 5 3/16 inches and you will have turned the wheel 20 degrees.

To finder castor, turn wheel to right 20° from straight in, read angle, turn wheel 40° other way, read angle, subtract smaller from bigger and divide by 1.5 and that's your castor...

It's so easy a caveman could do it...

However, I'm going to use a laser instead of the 30" piece of wood.

Well, it won't be long, my angle finder comes in tomorrow...

TTFN

 

[franklin2]

I have seen some things in this thread I will comment on;

I had a dana 44 ttb hd and it has alignment bushings in the housing that hold the upper balljoints. They are separate from the balljoint, and can be bought in different amounts of offset.

When you mess with these bushings for alignment, you are messing with the camber AND the castor. There is no way around it, the way it's made turning the eccentric is going to affect both. You just have to shoot for the best compromise. If you can't get there, you might have to buy a different eccentric bushing.

I am not sure how you can get a proper alignment without the tires being on the truck. I guess you could get close, but you would definitely need to support the truck on each lower balljoint. I have always wondered how people set the toe with a "tape measure". Any vehicle I have tried to do that with the suspension and the engine/tranny get in the way of measuring in the center of the tire front and back. I have cornered a few guys who say they get good results and then they admit they use some sort of plates to sit beside the tires and extend the measurements down to where they can use a tape.

In your case of the tires being inward at the tops, you can usually correct that simply by raising the ride height a little bit. Whatever you want to use(depends on the spring type) but a small height adjustment will do wonders for the tires wearing on the insides, without affecting all the other adjustments.

 

[Bashby]

He has a f350 with a solid axle. Ride height wont affect camber.

 

[DaytonaBill]

I've got the Monobeam™ axle, can't adjust castor by adjusting fender well heights via springs, but you should adjust a little, via shims on the right side leaf springs...

The non adjusting bushings that go on the top ball joint will tell you how much camber off set and castor off set it has. It's stamped on the top with the first number being the camber and the second being the castor...

Then there are the adjustable ones (0° to 1°, 1° to 2° and goes to 4°) that will vary depending on what position you install it.

It gets locked down when the ball joint gets torqued down with the help of a machined flat that it sits against.

Here is a few different types of adjustable bushings;

The first one is non adjustable

the others are the adjustable ones...

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In other words, they are 8 sided (or 6 sided) and you look at a chart to see what position you set it in to get the correct amount of castor and camber.

Here is such a chart...

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I'm pretty sure my camber as it is now, is good as I have no steering returnablity problems. With the bushings, I can correct camber without changing castor.

 

[Bashby]

I think you have camber and caster confused.

 

[Bashby]

I believe all those bushings ypu showed are for a ttb. I thought the d60 had the screw in bushing that takes a 4 prong socket.

 

[DaytonaBill]

Nope, they are for the Dana 60 series, as well as the Dana 50 series. Doesn't matter if it's a gm, mopar or ford, if it's a dana 60 with ball joints (not sure about kingpins) these are the same ones Ford uses straight out of the factory...

I can't speak for all of the different dana axles, but these are the ticket for my axle.

The 4 prong socket sounds like the one used to remove the manual locking spindle nuts...

Mine takes a hex head socket with rounded corners...

 

[DaytonaBill]

I think you have camber and caster confused.

Nope, camber is sideways (left and right) and castor is front and back...

 

[Bashby]

Caster gives you returnability

 

[DaytonaBill]

Agreed!

I'm pretty sure my camber as it is now, is good as I have no steering returnablity problems. With the bushings, I can correct camber without changing castor.

Opps. I see what's going on..

I meant castor is is what determines returnablity... Sorry, my bad...

I usually proofread my posts to prevent this very exact thing...

 

[Bashby]

I was thinking about a jeep axle I guess. They have a screw in camber bushing that takes
A four prong socket. I tried to post a pic but have never been able to on OB.
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