Finally Reassembled and Running.... WHOA! BIG FUEL LEAK!

[icanfixall]

ATF is sometimes a wonder oil. It sure has been responsible for cleaning up some ruff running injection pumps. Filling a fuel filter with it then running the engine till you hear the engine sound change and shutting down for a nite has worked great for many. Glad its looking like its fixed too.

 

[bbjordan]

Ya, I call BS on the "flat spotted" excuse too.

Good to read the ATF fixed the problem! I love happy endings.

 

[OLDBULL8]

I still believe ATF has an additive in it to soften and expand seals, also is very hi in detergents. As many seals that are in a transmission. ATF does wonders to lot of problems.

 

[idi_econoline]

Was eager to test drive the van today, but I am sad to report that the leak is back.

Stunned again, not in a good way.

 

[Agnem]

There are 3 driveshaft seals. One to keep the oil in the engine, one to keep the fuel in the pump, and one to back up the pump seal and divert fuel to the weep hole. Those seals do get hard and brittle. Unfortunately, with it sitting a while, the hardness increased and they have lost their flexibility. The ATF will darn near dissolve the middle seal, which is a different material, and is very soft to begin with. Unfortunately, father time has beat you down, and it's just time for another pump. In the agricultural world, these pumps exist in a similar version where the drive shaft is actually not fixed in the pump. The shaft stays with the tractor, and the pump comes off of it. Those are real easy to put seals on, although the bronze bushings still wear and need replaced during a rebuild. Unfortunately, Stanadyne did not build these that way, and the shaft is the first and last thing to go into and out of a pump.

 

[riotwarrior]

U can always flush an IP if you utilize a filtered feed to it and cap return back into bottle....check out TECH 101 Diesel Purge and you can use any fluid you want be it ATF or Diesel Purge or Howes or or or....

Just sayin..

Filling filter with ATF does not actually last that long as it is immediately diluted with diesel as it drains/fills filter and IP. It MUST be closed loop to ensure 100% of material of choice...

JM2CW

Good luck Hope ATF solved issue it could just be thicker!

 

[idi_econoline]

Thank you, Mel and Al. ATF makes that seal happy for a few minutes, but it is time for a new pump.

Yeah, some have urged me to raise hell with the rebuilder, but, two years past warranty, receipt's long gone. Sure, it "should" last 100K, but it clearly didn't.

Expect a call from me tomorrow, Mel. This pump will make the long journey to you.

My workplace goes crazy for the next couple of weeks, so I won't have time to work on her, anyway. Hopefully, I'll have your new pump to install by mid-February, and my life will be free of puddles, once again.

 

[idi_econoline]

Urrrrrrggghhhhh.....

That lower advance piston was weeping a bit before all this, but this is now a total BLOWOUT!

Yet, Hydro-idi came by yesterday, and he confirmed that the engine runs really nicely.... while the pump's blasting out fuel!!

Looks like a Baby Moose is in my future. Just because Ford was able to shoehorn the turbo'd PSDs into vans, doesn't mean I'm going to jam turbo plumbing into my tunnel.

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[icanfixall]

Now that the pump is off the engine removing that cap that has the seal in it is simple. Just hammer out the lever pin and unscrew the cap. Take it to any good quality injection pump repair shop. May cost $10.00 to replace the seal. they are specially installed a certain depth with special tools. How long it will stay sealed up is only something Mel could answer. I recall he posted something about other internal parts that wear and cause this to happen too. On a truck its no problem but on a van.. Well my hats off to anyone doing engine work on a van.

 

[IDIoit]

hopefully you can get it fixed without replacing the whole IP.
i thought your location said northern california! youre more middle california
im over here in the east bay.

looks like in a couple months im gonna have to hold an IDI BBQ!!!

 

[Hydro-idi]

hopefully you can get it fixed without replacing the whole IP.
i thought your location said northern california! youre more middle california
im over here in the east bay.

looks like in a couple months im gonna have to hold an IDI BBQ!!!

Now that sounds like a damn good plan Brian

 

[Agnem]

We had a local guy recently, who parked his truck nose down, and allowed the valley pan to fill with water, which promptly froze. When he stepped on the throttle, the advance lever couldn't move and he snapped it. We fixed him up with a new lever, and that nut with new seals. A new IP is always the best option, but not always financially viable on a farm truck.

 

[icanfixall]

Mel did you recommend the customer change his cowl seal to stop the rain water from leaking in? For those that don't know. What happens is the cowl to hood seal breaks. then rain water leaks in and on a non turbo engine collects on top of the air filter housing. Then if the washer under the wing nut is missing or the rubber on the back side is shot you get rain water in the engine. Its happened to some very savvy members here too. Best to check the rubber seal on the filter housing top and the cowl rubber seal. Or try this idea. Wrap a plastic bag around the filter so the water will run off of it and not leak into the engine.

 

[snicklas]

...Or try this idea. Wrap a plastic bag around the filter so the water will run off of it and not leak into the engine.

I think you mean around the outside of the filter housing, not the element, correct? Around the filter element would keep water out of the engine, but it would also keep AIR out of the engine also. Just want to clear that up..... Don't want a "Gary said wrap a plastic bag around the filter and now my truck won't run, or it smokes like a freight train" post.......

 

[idi_econoline]

Ah, yes. Finally, in my hands. Stay tuned......

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