Extra power, then died?
- Thread starter Mike-M
- Start date
I had off today and got to work on it for a while before the snow got too heavy. 30 degrees out but I ran the block heater for a few hours before hand, cant hurt. Batteries charged overnight, cranked nice and fast.
Just holding the pedal down, i got nothing. 15 seconds at a time, no sputtering, no white smoke. Tried that 10-12 times with a few minutes in between for the starter to relax. Then I tried pumping the pedal quickly and after 10 seconds or so it fired up, but only lasted 2 seconds or so. I did this a few times, and it ran for a few seconds every time then died. One time I got it to stay running for almost 10 seconds by pumping the throttle continually. Blew a quick puff of black smoke and then a few seconds of white.
If this was a carb, Id say it was running purely off the accelerator pump.
Just holding the pedal down, i got nothing. 15 seconds at a time, no sputtering, no white smoke. Tried that 10-12 times with a few minutes in between for the starter to relax. Then I tried pumping the pedal quickly and after 10 seconds or so it fired up, but only lasted 2 seconds or so. I did this a few times, and it ran for a few seconds every time then died. One time I got it to stay running for almost 10 seconds by pumping the throttle continually. Blew a quick puff of black smoke and then a few seconds of white.
If this was a carb, Id say it was running purely off the accelerator pump.
rustygold
Full Access Member
Mine kina did the same thing but in was the injector pump line rubber was gone. Put on a rubber line really hard to fine the adapters for it and ran great now I feel a boost of power every now and then if I fight the power it shakes like it drop cylinders. I'm about to do a clear line test on the pumps. Because very little air in the lines will cause power increase.
Got to work on it again after work yesterday. Still no progress. Couldnt even get a puff of smoke by pumping the throttle like last week. I think im going to take my injection pump off, take it apart to see how it works and if theres anything wrong in there.
Question - Is the fuel heater necessary? Mine isnt working, but I have a feeling it never did.
Question - Is the fuel heater necessary? Mine isnt working, but I have a feeling it never did.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
The fuel heater has never been necessary for the engine to run proper. Many on this forum have tried to figure out why these are in the filter. One member posted he was reading his owners manual telling us the key is switched to the run position but not start the engine. Leave it like that for 7 or 8 minutes to properly warm up the fuel.
The start the engine. So far nobody has that kind of time on their hands to sit there waiting for something to happen we can't be sure is actually happening. BTW the heater is on top of the fuel and not on the bottom where it can do the best heating.. If its actually doing any good. The psd filters do have the heater in the bottom of the fuel bowls.
The start the engine. So far nobody has that kind of time on their hands to sit there waiting for something to happen we can't be sure is actually happening. BTW the heater is on top of the fuel and not on the bottom where it can do the best heating.. If its actually doing any good. The psd filters do have the heater in the bottom of the fuel bowls.
rustygold
Full Access Member
It helps with preheating the fuel so it can burn better at lower temperatures and always turns on for a little bit. But I would see if you getting fuel to the coming out of the injector pump before removing it it could be injector too
marmot
On the bench
Just a couple bits of wisdom I gleaned while fighting to get fuel on mine. Check for fuel at the IP inlet, if ok then check for fuel at the return line fitting on the top of ip while cranking. IF you have no fuel at the return line it could be the check valve under that fitting...very easy to remove and check or the fuel inlet filter inside the IP. In order to do these checks by yourself chock the wheels, turn ignition on, tranny in neutral or park, pull off the red rubber cover on the starter solenoid( keyed wire) on the drivers inner fender and use a screwdriver or heavy wire to jump to the hot wire from the battery. With the ip supply line unhooked use a coffee can to catch fuel there should be a lot of it. For checking the return line fitting hold the ip at WOT and then crank. Verify you have 12volts to both the wires on top of the ip before you start cranking.
NO fuel at IP supply, you have lift pump, fuel pickup, fuel filter or line problems. No fuel at return line you have FSS, inlet filter or check valve problems. Good luck man
NO fuel at IP supply, you have lift pump, fuel pickup, fuel filter or line problems. No fuel at return line you have FSS, inlet filter or check valve problems. Good luck man
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Good information posted about where you don't have fuel. Makes chasing a fuel issue easier for many I hope.
Worked at it some more yesterday. Im getting tons of fuel to the pump, and when I pulled the return line off and cranked it I got tons of fuel coming out the hose there too.
So does that mean my injection pump is definitely good, and I should be looking at injectors? Or is it possible the injection pump is pumping, but not at high enough pressure for the injectors?
I do have another pump i could get rebuilt too. Might be time to look into that
rustygold
Full Access Member
I would get you injectors pop tests. Some places does them for free
