Cincinnati Guy
Registered User
Someone explain this modification to me. I have heard of a few doing this mod to there transmission. Is it hard to do? Will it harm the transmission if it isnt highly built?
E4OD Lockup Mod
- Thread starter Cincinnati Guy
- Start date
Fozz
Full Access Member
If you don't tow anything, there's really no reason to do it. The biggest benefit is when towing down hill, it keeps the torque convertor locked up so you get some engine braking (like a manual tranny). The convertor unlocks anytime you let off the gas (I think) or apply the brakes (I know). I keep mine unlocked when driving in town, the truck drives better. Our trannies shift 1-2, then 2-3 and right after the converter locks up making the 2-3 shift feel long and slushy. The E4OD is actually a pretty good tranny if you keep it cool and do the mod. I used to want a shift kit, but now don't want one. I'm happy with it.
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Fozz, mine never felt like this when shifting - she'd do a crisp 1-2, a crisp 2-3, then a bit later get a crisp lockup in 3rd, and later go from locked 3rd pretty much straight into locked OD. This actually confused me a bit at first cause it felt like four separate upshifts, instead of three like a 4-speed transmission is supposed to have... I don't think my transmission was all-stock at the time tho, cause for one there was (and still is) an aftermarket converter of some sort, and also when later I went to install a TransGo shift kit in it I found springs in the valve body that were the exact same colors as the ones I was about to install, that shift kit also comes with a special orifice that is to be pressed into a fluid passage in the transmission case and there was one in there already which is not factory to my knowledge... I still do recommend installing a shift kit tho, it makes the shifts quite a bit crisper, not soc much harder (bang into the next gear) as they get faster (the actual time to complete the upshift is shorter).
Ryan, as Fozz explained the E4OD will unlock the torque converter when you let off the throttle, makes for good coasting but you have no engine braking whatsoever. Also some people have experienced the converter randomly unlocking while cruising at steady speed on the interstate, no codes stored in the PCM and no apparent reason for this issue. The thing to remember when installing a manual lockup switch is that it overrides the PCM control entirely, so if you were to perform a panic stop without disengaging the switch first you could potentially damage your converter as during such braking the driveline speed drops significantly and forces the turbine in the converter to turn at different speed than its outer shell (driven by the engine) thus putting lots of stress on the lockup clutch... There's an easy way around that tho, I've used it on my truck where the PCM has no control over the lockup whatsoever - I have a normally-closed relay wired in before the manual switch, it's triggered by the factory BOO (Brakes On/Off) switch on the brake pedal, basically the moment I even tap on the pedal the relay receives voltage and switches its continuity path from pole 87a to pole 87 which is empty, thus resulting in an open circuit for the converter lockup solenoid and so unlocked converter. When I release the brake pedal the relay shuts off and restores continuity in the lockup circuit, but by then I've had plenty of time to put the manual switch into its off position...
Ryan, as Fozz explained the E4OD will unlock the torque converter when you let off the throttle, makes for good coasting but you have no engine braking whatsoever. Also some people have experienced the converter randomly unlocking while cruising at steady speed on the interstate, no codes stored in the PCM and no apparent reason for this issue. The thing to remember when installing a manual lockup switch is that it overrides the PCM control entirely, so if you were to perform a panic stop without disengaging the switch first you could potentially damage your converter as during such braking the driveline speed drops significantly and forces the turbine in the converter to turn at different speed than its outer shell (driven by the engine) thus putting lots of stress on the lockup clutch... There's an easy way around that tho, I've used it on my truck where the PCM has no control over the lockup whatsoever - I have a normally-closed relay wired in before the manual switch, it's triggered by the factory BOO (Brakes On/Off) switch on the brake pedal, basically the moment I even tap on the pedal the relay receives voltage and switches its continuity path from pole 87a to pole 87 which is empty, thus resulting in an open circuit for the converter lockup solenoid and so unlocked converter. When I release the brake pedal the relay shuts off and restores continuity in the lockup circuit, but by then I've had plenty of time to put the manual switch into its off position...
Last edited:
gandalf
Senior Member
I have a write up on the procedure, directions, from 2003. It must have come from TDS. It's a bit long to cut and paste into this thread, though I guess I could do that if anyone wants it. Or I could email it to anyone. It's in a Word doc file.
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Ken, go for it man, even if it's long I'm sure it will be useful information to have on hand.
89ford
Full Access Member
Ken I would like to see it too would it work for a gasoline truck as well?
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Should work on a gasser too, yes, since you're modifying the transmission harness while leaving the PCM be as is.
Fozz
Full Access Member
Good info LCAM, yeah i was gonna do the Trans-go. I'll keep that in mind if I get a wild hair later. I've got mine wired to a double pole single throw 3 position switch with indicator lights. So factory set up is indicated with a green led, no light for manually switched unlocked, and a red led for when I'm manually locked. Also, if towing get an additional tranny cooler. The tranny will run hotter when unlocked all of the time.
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
How do you get three settings (lock-off-auto) with just a single-throw switch? I could do it with a double-pole double-throw and a relay, but that's cause when the switch is on manual lock or manual off I'd be feeding the PCM the dummy signal (that I'm currently feeding it constantly, since I have no automatic-control feature in my current setup), I take it as you don't run the dummy signal circuitry? Even without it, a double-throw switch would be needed (connect the wire from the solenoid to the center pole, then one of the ends gets the wire to the PCm and the other goes to ground), no lights can use a single-pole switch and with lights double-pole would be nice to keep the lights circuit separate from the converter circuit yet still related to its operation.
gandalf
Senior Member
Okay, I'm home from work. There seems to be enough interest, so I'll paste in that old post. Understand, it's not my post, and I can't stand behind it. I have not done the mod, I don't know for a fact that it works. Some of our better people can figure out whether it will work, and how to make it work better. This is from 2003, so it must be TDS.
******************
BossTrans
Member
Member # 27254
Reged: 12/08/02
Posts: 8
E4OD lockup Modification #1124277 - 03/15/03 10:17 PM Edit Reply Quote
For those who would like to convert there lockup to a manually controlled status via a two pole switch, the following will apply.
I post this information for peeps that Who do not want to entirely reverse engineer thier lockup circuit. Thus was the case on one of the vehicles brought to me. This mod was performed and works like a charm on an ambulance that had intermitten lockup problems. Intermitten lockup causes heat and convertor failure. Ideally in this situation the vehicle could be diagnosed by Ford with minor difficulty. However, It is my luck as is some of yours that the problem cannot be picked up my scanning the rig for faults. Poor grounds or dirty connections do not display themselfs on scanners. This vehicle we worked on has a 9"x6" wiring harness in it. The process of reverse engineering that bad dog was unacceptable so we went to Ford. After shelling out big bux to Ford to say "we dont know where the problem is but we can keep working on it (for 65 per hour!)" We decided to mod the trans harness ourselves. You should have a multimeter available to you before performing this mod.
The E4OD in my opinion shifts like crap from the factory. Lockup engages in all gears somewhat randomly and really gives unpredicatable results in shift feel. There is a solution but it is not for everyone. Several companies make trans command adapters which work nicely if everything in the vehicle is electrically tight. If there are connection problems in the vehicle regulating lockup circuit the trans controllers will not work. So the only other option in curing this problem of shift feel revolving around intermitten lockup and wireing problems is to install a manual switch to bypass the computer controlls for this circuit. DO NOT LET THE WIFE OR KIDS OPERATE THIS VEHICLE WITHOUT THIS SWITCHED MARKED "KEEP THIS SWITCH OFF." If this switch is left on below the speed of 25 the vehicle will shake and you may leave parts of your trans or engine behind!! This Switch cannot be placed in the "on" position until the vehicle speed is above 35 for most effective shift feel and control. For guys that want that control over shift feel this really does work great and should improve mileage for those who experience lockup cycling. Lets begin.
Identify the Main electronic harness going to the trans. Above the trans connector about 4-5 inches locate the Purple wire with a white or Yellow stripe on it. This wire gets stained with oil so look closely. Simply cutting this wire will make the trans shift through all the gear ranges except for convertor lockup. The trans will at this point shift better then u have ever felt before because the gear ratios are all nicely matched by ford. Early lockup screws up this nice ratio thus this fix will eleminate this.
Now that the lockup wire is cut attatch 2 lengths of wire to the two wires that are now available at the trans (one length per each lead).
drill a small hole in the floorboard under the carpet to get the two wires up to your dash somewhere convient for a switch. At this point u need to do a test. Tie these two wires together. The trans should operate normally and lockup will come in as before you cut the wires. At this point all we created was a loop effectively lengthening the path of the convertor lock up circuit. Using your meter, and a second driver for the rig, get up to about 55 mph and hold steady. Set your meter to dc voltage on the 20 volt scale. Place your red lead to the two wires on your dash that are tied together and the black lead to the outer circle of your cigarette lighter (ground). At the speed of 55mph with the vehicle warm you should have a reading of about .5 to 3 volts. If you apply the brake and hold the speed at 55 you should see that voltage jump to 12-14 volts. If you let off the gas the voltage should be 12-14 volts. As you get back on the gas and return to 55 and level out you should see the voltage drop to .5-3.0 volts. With the vehicle in park the voltage should again be 12-14 volts. You will notice that when lockup engages the voltage drop occures and lockup takes place. We are going to manually drop this voltage by adding a ground which is effectively what the computer does to engage lockup. If these results are not typical of your vehicle STOP HERE!! Your harness may be different and this Mod will not apply to your vehicle.
Assuming your tests indicated the correct results and u have the two wires inside your vehicle, open up the two wires you tied together and place the red lead on one of those wires and the black lead to the cigarette lighter outer ring (ground). You should notice that one lead will produce 12-14 volts with engine on and in park and one wire of the two will produce .5-3 volts when measureing to ground. Note the High voltage lead. Take your switch and place the high voltage lead reading 12-14 volts on one of the switches poles and tighten it down. On the other side of the switch connect the remaining wire from the trans AND a jumper wire that is somewhere securely grounded to the chassis of the vehicle. This will in effect ground the second terminal to the chassis. The benefit of this arrangement will gives the driver total control of lockup. Notice that when the switch is open (off) the computer cannot engage lockup if it is undesireable to the driver and around town you will get nice crisp shifts that contain nice ratios as designed by ford. Once this switch is activated lockup will engange and HOLD for the duration the switch is on.
I recommend you only use the switch for highway use to increase economy. That is unless your like me, I like the ability to control shift feel and it doesnt bother me to toggle that switch off and on for stops. If your a control freak this is the nuts and works well. This mod was performed on a 91 Diesel ambulance converted to a service truck. As we have not tested it on all electrical configurations for each of the years we cannot assume that this mod will work in all applications. For those of you that it does work for, Enjoy....its a really nice feature that will payoff in economy. On the highway flip the switch and let her go!!! even if you let off the gas a little lockup wont fall out and then reengage like the factory controls. Once Boss Transmissions web site is back up we will provide schematics for those who would like to review the above procedure.
We make no claims about its intent or use. Perform at your own risk. Feel Free to Correct anything I have said here. Read this Thread thoughly incase others experience situations that are undesireable. Thanks for your time..
Dan from BossTrans
Post Extras:
yARIC008
Member
Member # 27040
Reged: 12/03/02
Posts: 696
Loc: Orlando, FL, US of A
Re: E4OD lockup Modification #1125120 - 03/16/03 04:14 PM Edit Reply Quote
Nice write up there. One thing that i think would be nice would be to have a three position switch. One postion be off, one position be on, and one position be automatic, like you never even cut the wire and added the switch. That way when someone else drives your vehicle you can leave it on the automatic position and let the trans take care of itself and when you drive it toggle between off and on.
--------------------
EPW
1992 E-350, 7.3idi, Future wanted modifications: Banks Sidewinder Turbo, 5400 degree Kelvin HIDS, BTS Transmission.
why I don't have the modifications: Me's be poor.(Pictures}
Post Extras:
BossTrans
Member
Member # 27254
Reged: 12/08/02
Posts: 8
Re: E4OD lockup Modification #1125633 - 03/16/03 09:21 PM Edit Reply Quote
I agree that if all the electronics work then a 3 position switch would be the hot setup. Ours was not the case. Somewhere in the vehicle is a bad ground so at this time we wanted lockup off or manually on because the computer was pigging up the cycles. The real hot setup would be a lighted toggle switch which glowed green when lockup was off. Or if prefered a normally off light unless the light was grounded and then to glow red or amber alerting the driver to its manual presence and reminding the driver, Hey Here I am!!! Shut me off before you stop!!....
Dan....
******************
BossTrans
Member
Member # 27254
Reged: 12/08/02
Posts: 8
E4OD lockup Modification #1124277 - 03/15/03 10:17 PM Edit Reply Quote
For those who would like to convert there lockup to a manually controlled status via a two pole switch, the following will apply.
I post this information for peeps that Who do not want to entirely reverse engineer thier lockup circuit. Thus was the case on one of the vehicles brought to me. This mod was performed and works like a charm on an ambulance that had intermitten lockup problems. Intermitten lockup causes heat and convertor failure. Ideally in this situation the vehicle could be diagnosed by Ford with minor difficulty. However, It is my luck as is some of yours that the problem cannot be picked up my scanning the rig for faults. Poor grounds or dirty connections do not display themselfs on scanners. This vehicle we worked on has a 9"x6" wiring harness in it. The process of reverse engineering that bad dog was unacceptable so we went to Ford. After shelling out big bux to Ford to say "we dont know where the problem is but we can keep working on it (for 65 per hour!)" We decided to mod the trans harness ourselves. You should have a multimeter available to you before performing this mod.
The E4OD in my opinion shifts like crap from the factory. Lockup engages in all gears somewhat randomly and really gives unpredicatable results in shift feel. There is a solution but it is not for everyone. Several companies make trans command adapters which work nicely if everything in the vehicle is electrically tight. If there are connection problems in the vehicle regulating lockup circuit the trans controllers will not work. So the only other option in curing this problem of shift feel revolving around intermitten lockup and wireing problems is to install a manual switch to bypass the computer controlls for this circuit. DO NOT LET THE WIFE OR KIDS OPERATE THIS VEHICLE WITHOUT THIS SWITCHED MARKED "KEEP THIS SWITCH OFF." If this switch is left on below the speed of 25 the vehicle will shake and you may leave parts of your trans or engine behind!! This Switch cannot be placed in the "on" position until the vehicle speed is above 35 for most effective shift feel and control. For guys that want that control over shift feel this really does work great and should improve mileage for those who experience lockup cycling. Lets begin.
Identify the Main electronic harness going to the trans. Above the trans connector about 4-5 inches locate the Purple wire with a white or Yellow stripe on it. This wire gets stained with oil so look closely. Simply cutting this wire will make the trans shift through all the gear ranges except for convertor lockup. The trans will at this point shift better then u have ever felt before because the gear ratios are all nicely matched by ford. Early lockup screws up this nice ratio thus this fix will eleminate this.
Now that the lockup wire is cut attatch 2 lengths of wire to the two wires that are now available at the trans (one length per each lead).
drill a small hole in the floorboard under the carpet to get the two wires up to your dash somewhere convient for a switch. At this point u need to do a test. Tie these two wires together. The trans should operate normally and lockup will come in as before you cut the wires. At this point all we created was a loop effectively lengthening the path of the convertor lock up circuit. Using your meter, and a second driver for the rig, get up to about 55 mph and hold steady. Set your meter to dc voltage on the 20 volt scale. Place your red lead to the two wires on your dash that are tied together and the black lead to the outer circle of your cigarette lighter (ground). At the speed of 55mph with the vehicle warm you should have a reading of about .5 to 3 volts. If you apply the brake and hold the speed at 55 you should see that voltage jump to 12-14 volts. If you let off the gas the voltage should be 12-14 volts. As you get back on the gas and return to 55 and level out you should see the voltage drop to .5-3.0 volts. With the vehicle in park the voltage should again be 12-14 volts. You will notice that when lockup engages the voltage drop occures and lockup takes place. We are going to manually drop this voltage by adding a ground which is effectively what the computer does to engage lockup. If these results are not typical of your vehicle STOP HERE!! Your harness may be different and this Mod will not apply to your vehicle.
Assuming your tests indicated the correct results and u have the two wires inside your vehicle, open up the two wires you tied together and place the red lead on one of those wires and the black lead to the cigarette lighter outer ring (ground). You should notice that one lead will produce 12-14 volts with engine on and in park and one wire of the two will produce .5-3 volts when measureing to ground. Note the High voltage lead. Take your switch and place the high voltage lead reading 12-14 volts on one of the switches poles and tighten it down. On the other side of the switch connect the remaining wire from the trans AND a jumper wire that is somewhere securely grounded to the chassis of the vehicle. This will in effect ground the second terminal to the chassis. The benefit of this arrangement will gives the driver total control of lockup. Notice that when the switch is open (off) the computer cannot engage lockup if it is undesireable to the driver and around town you will get nice crisp shifts that contain nice ratios as designed by ford. Once this switch is activated lockup will engange and HOLD for the duration the switch is on.
I recommend you only use the switch for highway use to increase economy. That is unless your like me, I like the ability to control shift feel and it doesnt bother me to toggle that switch off and on for stops. If your a control freak this is the nuts and works well. This mod was performed on a 91 Diesel ambulance converted to a service truck. As we have not tested it on all electrical configurations for each of the years we cannot assume that this mod will work in all applications. For those of you that it does work for, Enjoy....its a really nice feature that will payoff in economy. On the highway flip the switch and let her go!!! even if you let off the gas a little lockup wont fall out and then reengage like the factory controls. Once Boss Transmissions web site is back up we will provide schematics for those who would like to review the above procedure.
We make no claims about its intent or use. Perform at your own risk. Feel Free to Correct anything I have said here. Read this Thread thoughly incase others experience situations that are undesireable. Thanks for your time..
Dan from BossTrans
Post Extras:
yARIC008
Member
Member # 27040
Reged: 12/03/02
Posts: 696
Loc: Orlando, FL, US of A
Re: E4OD lockup Modification #1125120 - 03/16/03 04:14 PM Edit Reply Quote
Nice write up there. One thing that i think would be nice would be to have a three position switch. One postion be off, one position be on, and one position be automatic, like you never even cut the wire and added the switch. That way when someone else drives your vehicle you can leave it on the automatic position and let the trans take care of itself and when you drive it toggle between off and on.
--------------------
EPW
1992 E-350, 7.3idi, Future wanted modifications: Banks Sidewinder Turbo, 5400 degree Kelvin HIDS, BTS Transmission.
why I don't have the modifications: Me's be poor.(Pictures}
Post Extras:
BossTrans
Member
Member # 27254
Reged: 12/08/02
Posts: 8
Re: E4OD lockup Modification #1125633 - 03/16/03 09:21 PM Edit Reply Quote
I agree that if all the electronics work then a 3 position switch would be the hot setup. Ours was not the case. Somewhere in the vehicle is a bad ground so at this time we wanted lockup off or manually on because the computer was pigging up the cycles. The real hot setup would be a lighted toggle switch which glowed green when lockup was off. Or if prefered a normally off light unless the light was grounded and then to glow red or amber alerting the driver to its manual presence and reminding the driver, Hey Here I am!!! Shut me off before you stop!!....
Dan....
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
I've read that article, actually I think this is what got me started on the whole lockup mod thing. The way they wired it generally works, but it's sorta hit or miss deal, in the sense that some PCMs apparently throw fits whenever the converter remains locked when they command it to unlock. I think Fozz runs his setup like that with just a switch and no alternate dummy signal feed into the PCM, so it obviously can be done, but IIRC there were several folks on TDS who tried it and ended up with limp modes...
junior20762003
Full Access Member
Why not the banks TransCommand anybody have this
Is it worth 250
Is it worth 250
oldmisterbill
Grumpy Old Man
I did my lockup in 2002 ecause I was hauling for a living. I guess I must have been lazy because I figured a simple way to do it. I spliced a wire on to the wire from the PCM to a switch under my dash then from the switch to ground. Normally slowing down the torque convertor will unlock when it slows down at around 20-30 MPH.A couple times I felt it when I was stopping at an off ramp (in a long distance driving daze).Evan when I am not towing still use the lock up when on a fast road. My trans runs cooler yes -but to me the most important thing is when on a high way I don't get that anoying 300 rpm slip when it reingages under a load. In my reasoning is that constant un lock - lock when you get back on the go pedal just serves to wear the torque convertor clutches. If you watch the tack when it locks up at highway speeds it is a mushy shift that allows the engine to exceed the speed (momentarrly) that it will run at when it finally completes lock up. Thus I feel that causes a lot of wear on the torque convertor clutches.If the convertor stays locked it seems to have plenty of holding power to pull with out slipping or wearing out. My trans has proven itself through many miles of towing without failing.It is not a modified trans,just a bone stock Jasper unit.
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Bill, your setup is like the one Fozz uses then, well for the most part. So that makes at least two people who have no issues with their PCM... I guess I may have been overly paranoid when I did mine, I copied it off a 2000-something PSD so maybe their PCMs are smart enough to see the converter solenoid not doing what they tell it to, while ours being older and possibly dumber simply don't care what the solenoid is doing? But if that's the case then based on what do they set code #62 when the converter lockup clutch gets fried? Maybe they watch the voltage drop across the solenoid and compare to engine speed, and when they see a voltage drop (indicates solenoid is energized) but no rpm drop (converter did not lock) they realize things ain't right and go limpy-limpy... Whereas a manually unlocked converter means no rpm drop but also no voltage drop so they think all is good?
Fozz
Full Access Member
I mis-typed on my switch earlier, it's a DPDT center off (basically 3 position) switch from Radio Shack. I've had mine modded for a good year now and haven't had any codes or limp mode issues, and I don't have a dummy signal to the PCM. It's a great mod, I really like it.
