don't buy a Bri Mar Trailer

[wftree]

We were towing a 6,000lbs excavator on a 12,000 lbs Bri Mar deck over trailer. The tongue snapped off and dropped the deck onto the road. After looking at the design it is very poor. I am stuck with this pieces of crap and will need to weld significant reinforcements to get it back into service.

I called Bri Mar and they told me to bad

I would stay far away from this manufacturer they make a dangerous product.

The channel that makes up the tongue is butt welded to the main channel running the length of the trailer. No reinforcement of any kind. After we bought the trailer and it was out of warranty we realized the bad design and added 1/2 steel to the tongue. Unfortunately it was not enough. When the trailer snapped the new steel was the only thing keeping the tongue attached

http://community.webshots.com/album/561672812TaBnbq

 

[MMeier]

How old is that trailer?

 

[wftree]

The trailer is 5 years old. We sand blasted it and repainted it and you can easily tell that the steel is very low quality. This added to the bad design and the horrible paint job makes for a very lousy trailer.

Just be warned, look very carefully before you but a Bri-mar and check out other trailers to. Make sure the design is sound.

We ran 9 foot beams under the trailer to make the tongue and added extra bracing. It is now a better design than when new.

wftre

 

[1989f2507.3idi]

i have a sure trac i love it built solid

 

[skintbackfarms]

In the pictures, it looks like the trailer has been cracked there before. When you added the plate to it, the plate wasn't welded across the bottom. The two supports (one on each side) was not fully welded, and the amount of rust? You can't blame the trailer company for it (not to take up for them). Looks like the work that was done on it was wrong. Just my 2 cents about it.

 

[82fordtruck]

In the pictures, it looks like the trailer has been cracked there before. When you added the plate to it, the plate wasn't welded across the bottom. The two supports (one on each side) was not fully welded, and the amount of rust? You can't blame the trailer company for it (not to take up for them). Looks like the work that was done on it was wrong. Just my 2 cents about it.

I agree. The repairs done were wrong and may have actually weakened it. With that much rust and half baker repairs all bets are off. If that came out of my shop and you were complaining to me I'd tell you to get lost too.

Do yourself and the rest of us a favor and take it to someone who knows what the hell they are doing for the repair.

 

[VanBoy]

That design seems really weird. I've seen orchard sprayers made out of channel that have a better design. With out actually poking my nose under it to get a better look..... I see a few bad things. That butt weld you mentioned is the first issue. It looks as if it was built the same way they make travel trailers and or mobile home frames.... at least the ones I have seen.

That plate to reinforce (front one) was welded in my opinion the wrong way. I think you said it was a temp fix, but it should have been replaced. My method of 'fixing'..... That front part to support the front of the bed on the sides would have been burned all off (and even on the inside of the channel). The existing channel would have been rebutt welded to the main frame. Looking at the pic, it looks like there is a piece of steel on top of the tong/frame. Any how, next, a 1/2 would have been heated and bent to the couture of the outside AND inside of the channel and welded. Second, a 1/2 plate on the bottom and top plate would have been welded on matching the outside angle and extending six inches from the center of the butt. The length of the plate would extend 9" down the main frame and 9" up the tong. Next, this "box" on the inside created by the top/bottom plate would be covered by another "plate" or channel steel to further support the area. It would extend INTO the channel frame and tong and completely box the joints. Sounds a little excessive... I know. And for even MORE support, a 2x4 .250" walled rec tube could be welded to the bottom of the bottom plate (following the inside plate edge) that ends to the channel tong and frame. At this point, I would hazzard a guess it wouldn't break again.... unless you dropped a 12 ton load right on the spot..... Some of the welding would be stitch vs continouse of coarse.

Heck, a 1/2" or even 3/8" reinforcement plate on the bottom from the factory could have prevented more stress.

 

[VanBoy]

Enclosed pic is a rough repair idea I would do.... not a very good drawing using 'paint'.... but it conveys what I would do.

The bent pieces prob. would be 1/4 inch or 3/8" to be welded inside/outside of channel frame. The reinforcements plates on the top/bottom would prob be 3/8 or 1/2" as with the large piece to "box" the area.

Comments on this method? Overkill?