Disc brake dually

[typ4]

Real quick, I have one srw 4x4, 1 drw2wd. Both are ass heavy with the camper on. Best way to have good brakes and a park brake , upsize wheel cyls, get the best shoes for heat resistant properties, go hydro with the vac mc, stops like no other.
You have to file mounting holes in mc to fit hydro, many use big bore hydro mc. I like mak pressure available.

Oh the single biggest "feeling" difference is going to Teflon braid hoses.

Try it, you'll like it. Lol

I was going to sell brake hose kits but to many liability issues

 

[crash-harris]

Real quick, I have one srw 4x4, 1 drw2wd. Both are ass heavy with the camper on. Best way to have good brakes and a park brake , upsize wheel cyls, get the best shoes for heat resistant properties, go hydro with the vac mc, stops like no other.
You have to file mounting holes in mc to fit hydro, many use big bore hydro mc. I like mak pressure available.

Oh the single biggest "feeling" difference is going to Teflon braid hoses.

Try it, you'll like it. Lol

I was going to sell brake hose kits but to many liability issues

What's the upsize on the wheel cylinders? Would they happen to be from the newer trucks (super duty)?

 

[typ4]

just see what on there and then get in the brake parts books, lots of early ford and dodge uses bigger cyls, and some half ton stuff also. I may have part numbers somplace.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

My biggest problem with brakes on these trucks, rear brakes specifically, is the hub seal leaking gear oil all over new brakes. The newer two piece seal helps a lot but I've had a couple problem axles that eventually started leaking again. Maybe that is part of the reason so many seem to want discs in the rear?

Nah doubt it. Swapping brakes cause of hub seal issues would just be a bandaid - I want the oil to stay where it belongs, regardless of what brakes it can damage or even if there are brakes on that axle to begin with. If the axle has consistent leak issues, and a new hub doesn't fix it, truck is getting an entire axle housing. If that new axle has discs that's all the better. Which is by the way not the reason we're doing the rear discs, I just want the most I can get under that thing. As of right now that's the 9k-lbs D80 E450 axle, but the lack of integrated parking brakes so far has put the brakes on that project (pun intended).

 

[riotwarrior]

Iove the open debates about brakes and such here....its awesome.

Good tip Russ on larger wheel cylinders...that helps too..

 

[crash-harris]

I see 2 different sizes listed (at least for the Enterprise via autozone) for 1" and 1-3/16" bore wheel cylinders. I thought there was a 1-1/4" portion for Sterlings It's been a long while since I had to do wheel cylinders on a Sterling.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

What's the upsize on the wheel cylinders? Would they happen to be from the newer trucks (super duty)?

1-3/16" bore IIRC, DRW application. Bolts right in place of the smaller ones. Be aware there are two port sizes used, 91-down runs standard 3/8" threaded ports, at some point the OBS switched to the 7/16"-threaded ports but still used 3/16" lines. Don't remember for sure when the change occurred, but point is you can get a large cylinder in either port size so just match that to what you got now.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

Iove the open debates about brakes and such here....its awesome.

Good tip Russ on larger wheel cylinders...that helps too..

i had no idea there was a debate about this one though.im just as surprised to read it as i was to see the broncs beat the pats lol.good luck to them in the big game.they're gunna need it.seriously i thought everyone knew hydro trumped vac 10 to 1.very surprised by some responses here.

 

[riotwarrior]

i had no idea there was a debate about this one though.im just as surprised to read it as i was to see the broncs beat the pats lol.good luck to them in the big game.they're gunna need it.seriously i thought everyone knew hydro trumped vac 10 to 1.very surprised by some responses here.

Debate and discussion being comparative of rear disc addition to hydro addition.

Hmmm bigger dually wheel cylinders....hmmm...ok maybe willing try thoze before the discs

Hmmm toss on some 4 or 6 inch longer braided stainless flex lines .....

Yuppers...think so.

 

[raydav]

you've only 2 wheels to stop out back,but we'll let that slide.

Read again. I have four out back.

 

[Psdiesel74]

I guess i retract my original statement saying I didn't wanna do a hydro swap seems it's the way to go I think I'm actually gonna look into it at some point. Thank you guys


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[FORDF250HDXLT]

Read again. I have four out back.

that was just directed to anyone (even those with srw pickups) who wanna load up to 11k and show 'em locking up the wheels with vac brakes.
i just wanna see it.im not saying it's not possible.id just be very surprised.i know mine couldn't of dreamed of locking the wheels.mine was doing well just to stop.......eventually.

 

[The Warden]

just see what on there and then get in the brake parts books, lots of early ford and dodge uses bigger cyls, and some half ton stuff also. I may have part numbers somplace.

If you find the part numbers, please post

 

[LCAM-01XA]

very surprised by some responses here.

Well then, lemme throw ya a curve ball - what happens if you blow a hose on the hydro? Now just think about how easy it is to add a vacuum tank for the factory setup... Yes the hydro rules with a heavy-loaded truck, but you give up some margin of safety with it. Larger trucks have an electric backup pump built into the Hydro-Max unit, it provides about half the pressure the one on the engine normally does but it is consistent brake assist that cares not if engine is running or not. We don't get that with the light-duty hydros, and we can't increase our pressurized fluid reserves either. With vacuum boost you can do both an electric backup (or even primary if you decided to run the GM monster) pump AND larger vacuum reservoir. For a truck that mostly pulls trailers that have their own brakes the hydro is not really needed, vacuum does just fine with good parts...

 

[towcat]

Well then, lemme throw ya a curve ball - what happens if you blow a hose on the hydro? Now just think about how easy it is to add a vacuum tank for the factory setup... Yes the hydro rules with a heavy-loaded truck, but you give up some margin of safety with it. Larger trucks have an electric backup pump built into the Hydro-Max unit, it provides about half the pressure the one on the engine normally does but it is consistent brake assist that cares not if engine is running or not. We don't get that with the light-duty hydros, and we can't increase our pressurized fluid reserves either. With vacuum boost you can do both an electric backup (or even primary if you decided to run the GM monster) pump AND larger vacuum reservoir. For a truck that mostly pulls trailers that have their own brakes the hydro is not really needed, vacuum does just fine with good parts...

there is an accumulator can to the side of the hydro, that provides 3 pump worth of reserve pressure before you go fully manual on the hydro.