Dang

[leftcoastjeff]

So yesterday I used my truck for the first time in a month, started right up, as usual, stopped several times with no problems starting.

The last stop was to pick up my trailer and put both back in storage, that is where the problem started, crank no start.

Checked the fuel shutoff solenoid, constant voltage even when cranking!

Checked the fuel filter, it was half full, cranked without the filter, lots of fuel!!

This truck always fires off quick when warm and it was warm!

I gotta move this quick, HELP!!!

LCjeff

 

[93f250idi]

Start by Cracking some injector lines while cranking and see if any fuel there.

 

[leftcoastjeff]

Thanks

I'll try that as soon as it gets a little warmer, Loosen the nut on top of the injector?

LCjeff

 

[hesutton]

Checked the fuel filter, it was half full, cranked without the filter, lots of fuel!!
LCjeff

If the filter was only half full, you have a leak, or a supply issue.

Heath

 

[leftcoastjeff]

DOH

So I found that the drivers side battery was not grounded, time for a group 31 mod.

LCjeff

 

[leftcoastjeff]

Agreed

If the filter was only half full, you have a leak, or a supply issue.

Heath

I agree. but it was running so well, just a few mins before.

LCjeff

 

[icanfixall]

If the fuel filter was half full you have a fuel delievery issue. Now you stated the lift pump is pushing plenty of fuel up to the filter. So maybe you ran a tank below 1/4 and your fuel pickups are broken off.... So you run out of fuel with a 1/4 tank still in the tank but can't suck it out... change tanks and bleed the system at the injecters but hold the throllte wide open. It will clear more fuel faster that way. Turn on the ignition switch... Stand in front of the rig. Jump the fender solenoid and hold the throttle wide open. Now watch the loose injector tops for fuel. Not much will spill out. Its nothing like what the lift pump sends to the filter. As you see fuel close the injecter nuts... It will fire up. Also as your cranking and stop any tight injecter nuts can be loosened. You will see and hear fuel or air escaping from the lines....

 

[leftcoastjeff]

thanks

Thanks for the advice, got it going and moved the trailer. IDI.

I believe the fuel problem is the return line caps, they appear to be original.
If I park nose downhill, it starts right away, if I park facing uphill, 30 seconds of cranking, sometimes twice.

So there goes my x-mas cash, easy come easy go, I've needed to do the return
line caps and batt mod. for some time.

This is the first time it's left me stranded, my fault.

LCjeff

PS. Which contacts do I bridge on the starter solenoid with my remote starter??

 

[LCAM-01XA]

You bridge the big terminal that has all the small wires on it, and the small terminal that has a single thin wire on it (likely with a push-on connector). If that doesn't work then you can bridge the two big terminals directly, but you should a screwdriver for this, as the remote-start switch may not be able to handle the current (I know my knife blade sure couldn't).

 

[leftcoastjeff]

Thanks much, where is the best place to get a return line kit?

Thanks again,

LCjeff

 

[The Warden]

I don't know if it can be had locally for a reasonable price....but IIRC Russ (typ4) can get his hands on a return line kit. You may want to get in touch with him...if I'm wrong and he doesn't have the kits available, you can go here...

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Yup, get it from Russ (typ4), his come with the good viton o-rings, whereas most parts store kits are overpriced and still have just plain rubber o-rings.

 

[leftcoastjeff]

Thanks

Thanks, I'll try Russ.

LCjeff