Custom turbo questions

Black dawg

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Most all of the non wastegated kits I have been around would make 15 psi with a healthy fuel system, pump maxed. I have seen a factory/ats 093 make 20 psi with a maxed pump and modded but functioning wastegate.
On my truck with the 085 setup, and 6.0 intercooler, I see 12 psi. Before I added the intercooler, The needle on the gauge would go past 15.
 

IDIoit

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My OEM ATS has some crappy up pipes, i leak alot
Russ's castings should get me into the 13 psi range
 

Black dawg

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I am not trying to say that these turbos are the best, I am sure something modern could have better drive/boost ratios, but they work plenty good for these engines.
 

david85

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My OEM ATS has some crappy up pipes, i leak alot
Russ's castings should get me into the 13 psi range

I suspect a similar problem on my 088 setup. Overall I'm not happy with mine but I plan to upgrade to a wastegated setup sometime down the line. 7 PSI is the practical limit for me right now (and thats approaching governed RPM - so the tall gearing isn't my issue). If I give any more fuel, I turn the sky black and may be touch 10 PSI. I'd be happy with 15 PSI smoke free, but time will tell if I'll ever get to that.
 

G. Mann

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The examples everyone has given serve to make my point. [Thank you to everyone who has posted on this thread, btw]

There are two ways to make more boost.

1: Make more heat energy.
1a: This can happen by mashing the go peddle harder... or
1b: By turning up the IP, which gives more fuel, to make more heat energy [same end result, just comes on sooner in the RPM range]

or
2: Move the heat energy from the combustion chamber to the turbine wheel more efficiently with less turbulence and fluid flow loss [air is a fluid, in engineering terms].

In both 1: and 2: the efficiency of the cold side [compressor] flow also must be balanced against the work energy produced by the hot side [turbine wheel].

The 30 yr old designs presently running on IDI's are less efficient, have greater losses, and produce less work energy per BTU of heat energy than more modern turbocharger system designs. Which is my point.

If intake manifold and exhaust manifold design were matched to a properly sized turbine, I believe we could easily see 25 lbs of boost at mid throttle range, based on total airflow through a 7.3. That other engine with 6 in a row pushes those kinds of numbers, imagine what a 7.3 would do with reliable 20 lbs of boost?

If you are pushing enough air into a Diesel engine, it shouldn't "roll coal", it should just make more power. If you are blowing black, it's unburned fuel out the stack from trying to make more heat energy by adding more fuel rather than more oxygen for more complete combustion.

Anyone have access to a CNC water jet to make a set of plates to build intake and exhaust?

I would like to see a complete turbo/exhaust/intake match in a nice tight system that doesn't sell for huge bucks. I think R & D folks are on the right track.. just haven't done a very scientific execution ... yet...
 

G. Mann

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Great article Ford250 posted. It covers a lot of what I've been trying to say in good order.

Thanks !
 

david85

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We have a CNC router table but its only suitable for aluminum (we carved a 1/2" thick adapter plate for my electric car on it). In theory, it might be possible to plasma cut the stainless steel for the exhaust manifold but I'm not confident the result would be clean enough to be worth while. Might have a water cutter some day but we're not there yet!
 

IDIoit

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i just ordered some 3/8" thick stainless header flanges ;Sweet
mild steel could have worked, but you cant polish a ****! :D
 

G. Mann

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I like where you are headed... Who is making them? How expensive are they?

Stainless is pretty, and cures the rust issue.. but you will wrap them anyway.. right?
 

laserjock

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i just ordered some 3/8" thick stainless header flanges ;Sweet
mild steel could have worked, but you cant polish a ****! :D

You could polish a **** if you nickel plate it first.....

I'm watching this one closely. I know there are kits available now, but if the banks plumbing proves too restrictive for the GT3788 (which certainly is a possiblity) I will be looking for alternative hot side plumbing.

:popcorn
 

88 Ford

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The examples everyone has given serve to make my point. [Thank you to everyone who has posted on this thread, btw]

There are two ways to make more boost.

1: Make more heat energy.
1a: This can happen by mashing the go peddle harder... or
1b: By turning up the IP, which gives more fuel, to make more heat energy [same end result, just comes on sooner in the RPM range]

or
2: Move the heat energy from the combustion chamber to the turbine wheel more efficiently with less turbulence and fluid flow loss [air is a fluid, in engineering terms].

In both 1: and 2: the efficiency of the cold side [compressor] flow also must be balanced against the work energy produced by the hot side [turbine wheel].

The 30 yr old designs presently running on IDI's are less efficient, have greater losses, and produce less work energy per BTU of heat energy than more modern turbocharger system designs. Which is my point.

If intake manifold and exhaust manifold design were matched to a properly sized turbine, I believe we could easily see 25 lbs of boost at mid throttle range, based on total airflow through a 7.3. That other engine with 6 in a row pushes those kinds of numbers, imagine what a 7.3 would do with reliable 20 lbs of boost?

If you are pushing enough air into a Diesel engine, it shouldn't "roll coal", it should just make more power. If you are blowing black, it's unburned fuel out the stack from trying to make more heat energy by adding more fuel rather than more oxygen for more complete combustion.

Anyone have access to a CNC water jet to make a set of plates to build intake and exhaust?

I would like to see a complete turbo/exhaust/intake match in a nice tight system that doesn't sell for huge bucks. I think R & D folks are on the right track.. just haven't done a very scientific execution ... yet...

Justin does test as much as he can. He tries to dyno all his products if he can. Another cool thing he has done to help him match his cam profiles the engine better is flow testing the heads. He posted the results for that on FTE and I think even a thread over here has that info as well.
 

88 Ford

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I like where you are headed... Who is making them? How expensive are they?

Stainless is pretty, and cures the rust issue.. but you will wrap them anyway.. right?

Iirc you can get stainless piping from Columbus Mandrel Bends or something like that for pretty cheap.
 

IDIoit

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with Stainless Steel there is no warp, no maintenance. fabbed up and polished, they will shine for YYEEEAAARRRSSS
or atleast until you coat em in oil, and bake it in.
undecided how they will be used ATM.
they were pricy 120 a flange.
but there exactly what i wanted.
i will be either making them a dual turbo system, or a GTP38
basically im just rounding up the hard to find parts when they pop up.
this was a major piece to the jigsaw puzzle in my scrambled brain.
 
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