Cranking issue after 30 min or more shutoff

[eastsideauto]

1993 F350 CCLB 7.3 w/ banks. Starts up everyday just fine, warm weather or cold. Shut it down and restart in less than 30 minutes, great. Any shutoff for more than 30 minutes is a major ordeal. I am thinking it is time to replace the vent lines, I think it is called. Am I correct in my line of thinking? Anything else needed to be checked?

 

[icanfixall]

I believe your calling the return like caps the vents. They run between the injectors and a rubber line connects them togehter. Buy from a member here called typ4 or Agnem. They sell what works best and stand behind what they sell for a fair price too.

 

[Agnem]

Now let's be carefull here... symantecs are important. We could be talking heat soak. Define anything longer than 30 minutes... because you said it starts fine every day.

 

[hesutton]

It starts fine first thing in the moring........ no cranking and cranking? Once it gets warm and sits for longer than thirty minutes, it's a bear to start? What if you let it sit for 3 or 4 hours............Does it start up normally again?

Heath

 

[damac]

If you aren't talking about cranking speed, I had that happen on our truck with a uhaul injection pump months ago.

Freaked me out at the time wondering if I messed up the timing, etc.

I could start the truck up cold and then venture out and do some short stops and have it restart just a tad starter. But I would go shopping and come out the the truck would just spin over with no hint of restart. There were times during that week before pulling the pump that I had to pop the hood and wait almost an hour before the darn truck fire up again

Even with my truck having slight air intrusions to where fuel would drain back to the tank overnight, after a fully warm engine was shut off, I could come back a few hours later and hit the starter with no glowplugs and it would instantly start.

 

[eastsideauto]

After 3-4 hours it is just like it would be first thing in the morn.

 

[hesutton]

Sounds like a heat soak issue rather than a simple air leak. If that is the case, it's time for a rebuilt IP.

Heath

 

[IDIDieselJohn]

I have a similar problem...


On my van,

Starts right up no problem dead cold, or fully warmed up. But if I let it sit long enough for the water temp to go back down to around 150-160* (real temp gauge) it's *sometimes* hard to re-start. Cranks real fast, but nothing happens, then all of a sudden it catchs, and miss fires pretty bad, and rolls blue smoke like nuts for a few min, the smooths out, and runs fine.


But if it's below 150* or over 160* it pops right off no problem.


But even when it does start right back up, it still missfires and shoots plenty of blue smoke if it's not fully warmed up, or dead cold on re-start.



Timing isn't right on it..... could that be it? Sounds abit to advanced. I will have it timed next week. What's the best method of timing these things again?

 

[93idisv2007]

i have the same problem on my 93 7.3 idi exactly to the t the same as the op described. ive had a few guys tell me that the ip was going bad that the seals would leak in the ip when it got hot and not pump. but today i went to start it after about an hour and it cranked till both batteries went dead :/ the first time it has ever did this i got a jump from a buddy and shot a lil ether to it then tried to start and it almost locked my motor up. then i cranked on it for another min or so and shot a lil ether in it while cranking and it fired right up. on another note it has always had a miss in it over 2500 and wont hardly rev to 3000.

 

[IDIDieselJohn]

^^^^^^ that does sound like an IP....

 

[93idisv2007]

i was afraid of that can anybody point me in the right direction for a good ip at a decent price and where to get a good set of injectors and which injectors to get at a decent price too? ive heard you have to watch who you buy the rebuilt ip's at bcuz alot of them can be junk and there is all kinds of diffrent codes and bad places to buy injectors too :/ i was thinking about stock pump from dps turned up 2 flats and a set of stage ones from them? or am i wasting my money and burning my motor up at the same time with a n/a truck? and are the dps stock pumps ok? any help or advice is appericated because this is my first idi and i have no clue

 

[hesutton]

i was thinking about stock pump from dps turned up 2 flats and a set of stage ones from them? or am i wasting my money and burning my motor up at the same time with a n/a truck? and are the dps stock pumps ok? any help or advice is appericated because this is my first idi and i have no clue

In my experience with DPS........... NO. They are not OK. Check out the Hall of Shame at the top of the IDI section here. Without a turbo, the fuel provided by higher output pumps/injectors is going to raise your EGT's to less than ideal levels. Shoot, even stock, they can get dangerous with working the truck. Get a pyrometer on there.

Mel (his handle here is Agnem) can get you a quality rebuilt injection pump. Shoot him a PM. Russ (typ4) and Mel both can set you up with new BB code injectors that have been tested and pressure matched.

Heath

 

[93idisv2007]

i did get ahold of typ4 and as of for mel he messaged me back and i can't use him bcuz my truck is a dd and still runs and he want's my pump first and i can't do that :/

 

[JPKT]

Hi. I have the same exact problem with my 1992 E350 7.3 non-turbo. It starts right up cold. It starts right up hot but in between it cranks like crazy but will not fire. It is 100% stock with 105,000 miles. It doesn't blow white smoke or black smoke. It gets great mileage. It's a camper van with a turtle top conversion. I really need to rely on it for family vacations. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[eastsideauto]

Changed out my fuel filter last night. It hasn't been changed since? Helped out with the hard starts a little today. I am gonna order a return line kit from typ4. I am having alot of air intrusion woes as well. Get all them fixed and then I will think injector pump.