I recently purchased a compression test kit from ebay... 74.99 says "Stark" on the label. I like the kit. Fittings for several diesel engines, seems solidly built and the fittings are well sealed. 1000 psi gauge, etc. Unfortunately the only fitting that works is for the glow plug hole so I am going to return it and just buy the gauge and a fitting that fits a gp hole....
So I picked up another truck recently (check sig for details) and found out on the drive home that it has the only buzz word worse than the dreaded "cavitation"---- It has the "chuff".......
I wanted to compression test it for my own information and also because I thought the bad valve would identify itself with this test. I tested on hot engine with glow plugs removed and I tested for first crank pressure (Riot method) and overall (6 cranks). Did passenger side first, starting with #1. Each cylinder was tested a minimum of (2) times to get a repeated reading.
1. 200, 500
2. 200, 400
3. 200, 400
4. 200, 420
5. 200, 450
6. 280, 450
7. 300, 500
8. 200. 350
There was one oddity... When I did #2 it read "0" on first crank 3 times. I wiggled the fitting and it seemed fine, but then it pressurized. My question is this.... I thought that I would find a cylinder that would not hold pressure that would clearly identify the bad valve.... what am I misunderstanding? Is the low reading on 8 an indication even though it held? I have used heads coming today to replace existing so I will get to do an inspection, but please educate me on why this didn't yield a leaky valve, advice, tips, etc. Thanks!
So I picked up another truck recently (check sig for details) and found out on the drive home that it has the only buzz word worse than the dreaded "cavitation"---- It has the "chuff".......
I wanted to compression test it for my own information and also because I thought the bad valve would identify itself with this test. I tested on hot engine with glow plugs removed and I tested for first crank pressure (Riot method) and overall (6 cranks). Did passenger side first, starting with #1. Each cylinder was tested a minimum of (2) times to get a repeated reading.
1. 200, 500
2. 200, 400
3. 200, 400
4. 200, 420
5. 200, 450
6. 280, 450
7. 300, 500
8. 200. 350
There was one oddity... When I did #2 it read "0" on first crank 3 times. I wiggled the fitting and it seemed fine, but then it pressurized. My question is this.... I thought that I would find a cylinder that would not hold pressure that would clearly identify the bad valve.... what am I misunderstanding? Is the low reading on 8 an indication even though it held? I have used heads coming today to replace existing so I will get to do an inspection, but please educate me on why this didn't yield a leaky valve, advice, tips, etc. Thanks!