cold start help

[holtzer1]

alright, hopefully my 6.2 questions arent getting out of control, this is my first one and i know very little about this engine.
temps around here are like 34 degrees in the morning, when i go to start my truck, the glow plug light cycles, i hear the controller kicking on and off like normal. it has new glow plugs, fuel filter, i/p, fuel pump. i do what the owners manual says...push petal to floor and crank, problem is, it cranks...and cranks...and cranks then kicks over...then cranks and cranks then it finally fires up and smokes like a freight train..just billows clouds of white smoke untill i rev it up a few times. it also clatters alot louder for a while than almost like a switch turning off...the clatter stops...its instantanious. and everything is ok. i'm not sure what to look for..if anything. i read on a HUMMER site that it has a cold start switch on the throttle linkake. anyone know how to test it? and am i just worrying about something that is absolutely normal. i have read on that site that some people have no problems starting theirs at temps below 30 degrees, without it plugged in just by pressing the pedal down, waiting for the light to cycle and turning the key...this however is not the case for me. btw, i do not currently plug my truck in.thanks in advance for the help guys.

 

[towcat]

what year is your truck again?

 

[bikepilot]

It should start much easier than that. I learned how to drive in my dad's 83' 6.2L burb. It fired off imeadiatly even in really cold temps. I never even held the go-peddle down like they say to. Just wait for the gp's and hit the starter.

I suspect you have an air intrusion problem or some in-op glow plugs.

good luck

 

[dieseldummy]

Make sure your timing isn't to far retarded. It's been my experience that sliped timing is the # cause of hard starting. Another thing could be a weak/inoperative lift pump, I know you mention that it's new, but I've had new ones fail within days before.

 

[holtzer1]

ok, its an 82, i"against everyones advise" lol...turned up the pump a smidgen last night. to put it this way...the lift pump, filled the totally empty injection pump in less than 2 seconds...it fired right up. so, i know for a fact the pumps in good shape. once its started, it runs like mad...
how does one go about checking the i/p timing?
turning up the pump, i turned the screw 1/8 turn, it has a decent increase in power..i can now make it up long hills without downshifting out of OD, black smoke is minumal unless i just hold it to the floor, and watching the temp gauge on the dash...coolant temp doesnt go about 190 on loooong hills, i figured i could use that as a short term idea of whats goin on for now till i get a pyro, i am not worried that its overfueling, i know its not. it runs better...even sounds alot better, less clatter and it just humms at cruising speeds. i know, ridicule me for truning it up and not having a pyro, i'm ready to take my lashings.
also, how does one check glowplugs, do i have to take them out or can i do it with them installed? i did notice it smokes more from the left pipe than the right..it does have true duals on it.
thanks again for the help.

 

[towcat]

no ridicule here... its your motor and your means of transpo. If it still has the '82 GP controller, you might want to look into updating the system to the solid state '84 and up variety. I am doing that on my '82 pickup. The '82 shares the same GP controller that has been problematic for fords. As far as one side putting out more black smoke than the other, you might have a lazy injector.

 

[holtzer1]

no no no...sorry, the left side puts out more white smoke on start up.
it has the updated gp controller too, its all brand new.

 

[towcat]

no no no...sorry, the left side puts out more white smoke on start up.
it has the updated gp controller too, its all brand new.

you may have a new controller and GP's...how about the wiring? GM's use fusible links for each GP

 

[dieseldummy]

To check adjust the timing you lossen the three nuts that hold the IP on and rotate the top toward the drivers side.

 

[chevydiesel]

You might want to check for air in the system, it's amazing how poor an engine will start wtih just a little air in the injection system.

The first trick is to go to the hardware store and buy 1 foot of 1/4ID clear flexible hose. Remove the hose from on top of your injection pump (fuel return) and install the new piece of hose in the same length as the orignal. I'd suggest using hose clamps on it to narrow out another source of air into the system while under observance. This is not necessary though.

Start the truck and let it idle and watch for air bubbles going through the line with the engine running. If you don't see any, you don't have a bad leak.

Let the truck sit over night.

The next day, get a helper, someone to either crank over the engine to get it started or have them observe if they see any bubbles when it starts. If they do, then you have an air leak somewhere to find. Usually it's a rubber hose connection, bad hose clamp, or cracked hose, etc.

What glowplugs are you using?

The AC60g's that are current model don't get as hot as fast using the factory glow plug controller, just food for thought. QH heat glowplugs are out there, Kennedy, SS, etc.