Clutch problem. Can't get the hydraulics to pump up!

Thefarmboy21

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I have an 87 F-250 4x4 with a 6.9 and the 5-speed OD tranny. I just replaces the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder and can't get the clutch to disengage. It has pressure and I think I got the air out. Can't get any more bubbles and when I crack the bleeder I get a nice solid stream of fluid. It feels like your pushing the pedal 1/2 way but it's all the way on the floor and does nothing. It has an adjustable rod for the master. I adjusted it like it said but it's shorter than the original. Could it just need adjusted longer? If I make it longer I think it will put a pre-load on the master cyl because it goes in with no play now. Any longer and it will have to push the plunger in to go on. Thanks
 

Thefarmboy21

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Hey thanks! That's a great article. I've tired the bending and tapping, but I'll they harder and I'll try to shave the slave in as far as it'll go and wedge it shut and then wiggle the line and wath for bubbles.

Any idea where I can get a clear'ish red line or what model truck it came with? Autozone doesn't carry a line for an 87 period but mine was good so I just left it alone. Thanks again!
 

Agnem

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It'***** or miss with the lines. The material and diameter is even something funky, as I could not find a splice to repair one. I find it hard to believe that it doesn't exist in another application somewhere, and couldn't be sourced from another supplier, but no one has suceeded in doing so.
 

subway

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i have had luck patching lines with a john guest or push to connect style fittings. it has been in my old truck for 5-6 years now, if you could get a set of calipers it should tell you what it is standard or metric size real quickly. i am betting that each manufacturer probubly used there own style hose but i would highly suspect it is a standard size hose one way or the other. it just would not pay to have a custom size for no real reason.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#push-to-connect-tube-fittings/=hrxgwr
 

riotwarrior

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Well as I have said before....I would much prefer a braided line than plastic any day so as to have more abrasion resistance and much less chance of melting on hot manifold etc. JM2CW and seeing as I have 3 or so lines about I'll be checking sometime on a custom made one..now who was it that said they had a stainless on made?
 

89dieselbko

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Apex Hydraulic & Machine Inc
Phone: (814) 342-1010

Call them, i had a different place do mine... but from what they were saying on the phone i over paid. alot.
Guy i talked to there *forget his name* would make it as straight as possible, with braided ends to bend to connections, so as to help get/keep air out of the system.

I had Penn Public, altoona PA, do mine... a mimic of my old one, and i paid to much! If i had shopped around i would have known this....

The above shop is going to do my stainless hydrolic brake lines for my grandfathers Harley, More line then i needed for my clutch, same size tube, 1/2 the cost!
 

Thefarmboy21

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Ok so now I'm worried that I have a different problem. When I put the new slave cylinder in I had to remove the plastic pushrod keeper and completely compress and force the slave cylinder into place. So the pushrod is metal on metal but I thought that's how my old one. Anyone else had trouble getting these things on???
 

CESMITH

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clutch peddle $*#(*&^^%

Check for cracks under the dash were the peddle pivots . also check the fire wall for cracks and replace the pivot bushings. my 93 had all three issues
 

Thefarmboy21

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Fixed!!! :D

I guess I didn't have the pushrod adjusted out far enough. It wasn't going all the way in at first I guess but once I pumped it with the pedal it seated in and I didn't know, well when I popped the rod off the pedal it was about 1/4-3/8" too short so I ran it out and all is good now. That clutch feels perfect! Thanks for the help.
 
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