Clunking in the rear diff at takeoff

EMD_DRIVER

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My dually started clunking a bit, whenever I would take off from a stop and was turning also. I figured it might be U-joints, but they were all tight. The carrier had some play in it, but not enough to allow the U-joints to bind up. It got worse and would do it anytime I would take off from a stop... Especially while towing. It got much worse, when we traded the fifth wheel for a larger and heavier one!

What all should I be looking at/for?
 

subway

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Loose transmission/engine mounts or u bolts.
 

Double-S-Diesel

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check the nut on the yoke , I had a new one put on, maybe it backed off some, they are tourqued to 480 ftlbs.
 

EMD_DRIVER

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check the nut on the yoke , I had a new one put on, maybe it backed off some, they are tourqued to 480 ftlbs.

I wish I had known that sooner... I could probably have gotten a torque wrench from work, that would go to 480 Ft lbs...

I took it to a truck shop, that has a great reputation for workmanship and reasonable pricing.. I'll find out tomorrow, what they found.
 

OLDBULL8

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If that nut has backed off just a little, the intermediate spline at the carrier bearing might be dry, that would cause a clunk. The heavier the load, the more axle wrap. I use the synthetic wheel bearing grease on mine. The spline is coated with teflon, but that wears off.
 

EMD_DRIVER

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I got a call from them today... Basically, they said that the gears are just worn out. Side gears, ring and pinion gears are all worn badly. The bearings are also about shot, especially the driver's side carrier.

They quoted me three prices..

1) Only replace the side gears and bearings... $1,000 parts and labor. Pretty much, a "Band-aid" fix.

2) Replace the whole differential, with a rebuilt unit and new bearings... $1,600 parts and labor. Also includes a 1 year, unlimited mileage parts warranty.

3) Replace the whole differential, with an entirely new Jasper unit. $3,000 parts and labor. Includes a 3 year, unlimited mileage warranty. That warranty also includes parts, labor and towing.


Anybody have any other ideas??
 

lindstromjd

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Pick yourself up a new rear end and just swap it in. You should be able to find an entire axle and everything for less than $600.
 

lindstromjd

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Where?? I called the local truck salvage place today and was told $1,500 was the going rate...

$1500 for one single axle? That's insane. I can pick up a pair of Dana 80 straight axles for $1400 in NW FL. And I know for a fact that junkyards down here sell rear axles for $5-700 based on what it is. That's what I was basing my estimate off of. One thing to look for though, is that some junkyards charge you much, MUCH more for a part when they have to pull it themselves, or when they know what it's off of. If the part is in their yard and you pull it, the price is quite a bit cheaper, IME.
 

EMD_DRIVER

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$1500 for one single axle? That's insane. I can pick up a pair of Dana 80 straight axles for $1400 in NW FL. And I know for a fact that junkyards down here sell rear axles for $5-700 based on what it is. That's what I was basing my estimate off of.

Wow!

I sure wish I could find one for 5-600!
 

lindstromjd

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There's also a bunch of used 3.73 SD rear axle assemblies on fleaBay right now for about that going rate, with $150 shipping. Still cheaper than having just the rear diff replaced by the shop.
 

Double-S-Diesel

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dont know of any off hand,
Id go option 2 , that price seems in line , doing a 10.25 cost me $800 just for ring, pinion and bearings.

sucks the d-80 has different innards than a 10.25 or 10.5

I cant see the ring and pinion gears being wore out unless the bearing spun on the shaft, but then there is 300k on it.
didn't see any thing abnormal when I changed the fluid.
 

gonecrazyi

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I sell rearends for 150 bucks lol. The yards down around me want 200a for an axle.
 
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