Cleaning out CDR

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I did a search and it wouldnt let me search for CDR.
So I know someone did a writeup on it, how do you clean out the CDR can?
 

towcat

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somewhere I have pics where a CDR was dissected by Argve/goatboy. If you ever saw the insides of one, you would pitch it and get a new one for $50. It's just cheap insurance. Here's the problem. In order for it to work, the vavle is supported by a thin rubber(or a synthetic) membrane. introduction of harsh solvents causes the membrane to disintergrate. the result is uncontrolled introduction of oil into the motor. Is saving $50 really worth burning up a motor in the long run?
 

towcat

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How do you know if the CDR isn't functioning properly?
there is a test to see if it is working properly, but the replace interval is 50k/mi. it's not a trivial matter pulling it off since the rubber hose/grommet is going to be fossilized, so if you do pull it off, you minus well replace it along with the hose/grommet.
 

cleithau

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Well mine will come off easy, I just replaced the valley pan gasket. Wish I had thought about the CDR at the time. Was in a huge hurry because I was moving across the country and the truck sprung a coolant leak 3 days before I had to move. Are there any symptoms a bad CDR will give you? My intake manifold is oily on the inside but not too bad. I'll have a better idea of my actual oil consumption once I do the valve cover gaskets and oil cooler o-rings.
 

towcat

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if the cdr is painted the same color as the rest of the motor, change it. 9/10 of the trucks I see have more than 50k on the odo and never has been changed. if you have driven the truck while it's in your posession more than 50k on the odo, change it.
I've been told to put a vac on the discharge side and see if it holds closed. if it does, it's good. if not, it's bad. problem is if the rubber like diaphram is weak, it will rip in the test. so just make it easy on yourself and change it.
 

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