Centurion Engine Build Thread

[nightrunner84]

I've been putting together this 7.3 turbo engine for a Centurion that a bought a few years ago. The covers are at the powder coater, And I'm changing the cam with one from IDI performance.

A few questions.

1. It's a Jasper engine, and the numbers are ground off next to the injection pump. Jasper put their own numbers on, so I don't know if this is a factory turbo block or not. Is there any way the check? Differences between the NA blocks and turbo blocks?

2. The lobe for the fuel pump is gouged, not bad, but enough that I noticed. Will this cause a problem? Is it even possible to get the lobes anymore.

3. When changing the valve springs with the 910-16 Comp Cams springs that the guy at IDI performance said the cam needed, I noticed that some of the springs has a .040 spacer under them. I've removed the spacers, and installed .060 spacers under the exhaust valves only. Were the original springs just a little old, and that was the engine builders attempt at compensating for worn springs? I had the heads machined and done a year ago.

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[larson]

Well I'm no engine builder by any means but that lift pump lobe is missing a lot of material.
It means absolutely nothing if your going to run an electric fuel pump just fyi.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Look at the oil port on the upper back of the block right behind where the rear of the valley pan sits. On the n/a blocks this was 1/8" npt because it was for an oil pressure sending unit. On a turbo block, it's 1/4" npt because it's an oil feed for the turbo. It really doesn't make much sense to me since so many people are using the 1/8" npt ports down by the oil cooler for and oil feed. Maybe it's because of the fact that the oil pressure sending unit is on the turbo on one with a factory turbo?

 

[nightrunner84]

Look at the oil port on the upper back of the block right behind where the rear of the valley pan sits. On the n/a blocks this was 1/8" npt because it was for an oil pressure sending unit. On a turbo block, it's 1/4" npt because it's an oil feed for the turbo. It really doesn't make much sense to me since so many people are using the 1/8" npt ports down by the oil cooler for and oil feed. Maybe it's because of the fact that the oil pressure sending unit is on the turbo on one with a factory turbo?

OK, the one that faces up at the rear of the block? It's 1/4 alright. Would Jasper have punched it out larger if it was a core? Also, I thought I read somewhere that the oil cooler passages in the turbo engines were different.

Anyway, I got the cam changed, lifters, pushrods, exhaust manifolds, and all the valve springs in today.

Thanks for the replies guys!

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[IDIBRONCO]

Yep. That's the one. I can't see why they'd bother to make this hole larger.

 

[typ4]

I have reconditioned fuel pump lobes . And the tubes are not different on the coolers its the fin count.

 

[nightrunner84]

Got some more work done tonight. The valley pan, intake, IP, injectors, lines, front cover, valve covers, and return lines are on. I know the marks don't line up on the can gear, I put it the way the instructions said from IDI Performance. Let me know if you guys see anything I'm doing wrong.

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[Macrobb]

Not sure on the paint on the front of the timing cover... Will there be any issues sealing the water pump?

I don't know; I just don't recall that area ever being painted stock.

 

[nightrunner84]

Not sure on the paint on the front of the timing cover... Will there be any issues sealing the water pump?

I don't know; I just don't recall that area ever being painted stock.

It's powder coated. I "think" it"ll be OK. I've done interior engine parts in the past with this coating and it's been OK, but I've never done behind a water pump. Just assumed it wouldn't be a problem.

 

[Macrobb]

It's powder coated. I "think" it"ll be OK. I've done interior engine parts in the past with this coating and it's been OK, but I've never done behind a water pump. Just assumed it wouldn't be a problem.

That should be OK, I think. As long as it stays adhered to the metal, the RTV/silicone shouldn't have a problem with it...

 

[icanfixall]

That beer dog should have a 6 pack at the ready.Get to work bud... lol
You appear to doing a correct build. The only difference between the turbo and non turbo block is the oil passage ports. Turo is 1/4 npt where the non turbo is 1/8 npt. The drivers side has 3 plugs for the main oil gallery.One is on the bellhousing flange and the other 2 are behind the oil cooler on the block walls.
Please do not use any cork or rubber oil pan gasket. Factory was and still is nothing more than good quality RTV. Just be sure the multi are sealing joints are really clean and use a little more rtv in those areas.That front and rear cover plates at the oil pan will be the critical areas to make really clean.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

You don't really need any extra sealant on the gaskets for the front cover. I was told that the orange stuff on the gasket was like an impregnated silicone. All we ever did in the shop I used to work in was use a high tack spray adhesive on the block to help keep the gaskets stuck on until we could get the cover and bolts on. We never had any problems.

 

[nightrunner84]

This is all I've got done in the past month. Rolled it over to put the pan on, and rechecked the torque on the caps and rods. The caps were fine, but the rods all turned a bout a 1/8 to 55 ft/lbs. I putting the rear cover on now, and driving the main seal in. Is the Fel-Pro seal fine, or would a Motorcraft/International seal be better?

Also, I found a seal for the turbo pedestal/CDR. The part number is E8TZ-6A892-A. the long neck will have to be cut down, but the ID/OD is right for this application.
E8TZ-6A892-A

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