CDR valve questions and ideas.

[Alacrity Machine]

So my basic understanding of a CDR valve is this is the valve used to regulate crankcase pressure. Now the reason why you couldn't use a PCV valve off a diesel is because the reason for regulation is exactly opposite. Since a diesel pulls more vacuum as RPM's increase and and a gas motor using a butterfly to meter the air is pulling more vacuum at idle than it is while increasing the rpms. So therefore instead of a pcv valve that sucks itself open and closed. The cdr valve has a tuned spring on the can and as the vacuum increases as the rpms increase the vacuum created happens to suck the valved closer to closed metering the correct amount of vacuum needed to pull the fumes out of the crankcase. As well as keep your gaskets in your block and theoretically keeping your crankcase free of positive pressure letting all rotating components spin more free.

Well here's my problem. I want to use and oil catch can and get rid of the tuna can valve that doesn't fit well anywhere after the turbo has been installed and i'm not even quite sure that after its been turbo that the valve is regulating to the right specs ? I mean i guess i could check once i get my truck running but i'd rather just find me a solution first.

So from what i hear i should be pulling 1" of vacuum at idle and upwards of 6 at around 2000 rpms ?

Is there any other "universal" options out there for a CDR valve ? Maybe some type of adjustable aftermarket valve so it can be fine tuned to work correctly ?
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Or since i own a small shop should i quit hoping i can be lazy and buy something cheap and easy and make it work and design a valve myself and try to bring it to market ?

I just want the damn CDR valve off of the valve cover and preferably inline. I looked at mounting General Malfunctions 6.5 CDR directly to the catch can i have been designing. but its just like heres shiny pretty aluminum with a tuna can attached to it. Needless to say i don't like it.

I don't want to hear about venting to a can unregulated. I know how that goes on a gas motor. And since IDI's in pickup trucks don't prove to be the easiest to replace gaskets on unless its valve covers or exhaust manis and i haye getting dirty just to cost me money. I'd like to figure out a seriously legit solution to this problem. I just don't want to go way out of my way and waist alot of time and resources on designing and building a fairly complex valve thats going to take many hours of tinkering to make it work correctly on a truck that i'd like to perform well so i can tow my other toys around that i like to tinker with and build complex things for.

I've googled this problem to no avail. I imagine my no avail problem is due to the fact i have no clue what i'm talking about. But any ideas ? Directions to point me ? Things like that ?

 

[ironworker40]

Im confused. Do you want to use a rdt/oil catch can and get rid of the cdr, or move the cdr off the valve cover to hide it? Personally, I feel ,its not a all original 1970 boss 429 mustang or the like so what is wrong with the cdr on the valve cover? cdr's have been on turbo idi's for, well, decades now, so as for them not functioning after a turbo was installed is not an issue. Please clarify you intentions.

 

[5.0bronco]

I just put a road draft tube on mine and it works great. the engine in my truck has some blow by so it does smoke a bit out of the tube and itll leave a drop of oil now and then

 

[ToughOldFord]

FWIW, a diesel has no vacuum, it has no venturi or butterfly, the air intake is always "wide open". You can even run one of our IDIs (N/A) without an intake manifold, all the manifold does is give the filtered air a path to travel.

The CDR is like a PCV in that it reintroduces blowy gases to the combustion process via the intake, but it is normally in the "wide open" position as well. The valve itselfs main function is to cut off the 'fuel' supply in a runaway engine situation and the engine starts drinking it's own blood.

 

[Alacrity Machine]

Its not theres no vacuum its that theres no vacuum at idle hardly. But theres vacuum at your higher Rpms. Thats why theres a need for a vacuum pump. Brakes don't get used much at 2000+ plus Rpms. Pistons still pull vacuum on the intake stroke. What i'm trying to get at is i really hate the 90 degree style of the CDR valve. And for the way i want to build my intake and get rid of the retarded ATS box it would be extremely convenient to just have a straight through valve. I'm a big believer in a properly vented case. Its solved alot of issues on alot of vehicles for me.

 

[flatblack]

I just put a road draft tube on mine and it works great. the engine in my truck has some blow by so it does smoke a bit out of the tube and itll leave a drop of oil now and then

Unless you live is some lefty loon area that required all the EPA crap just do this. Please, stop associating a diesel engine to a gasser, the only thing they have in common is the basic engine parts. You complicate things by having this imaginary vacuum you think your motor has. The CDR ONLY DE-PRESSURIZES THE CRANKCASE BACK INTO THE INTAKE, how ever you accomplish this is up to your own imagination

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[icanfixall]

Usually a diesel is not compatible with intake vacuum. Case in point. Turbo your engine and you have a positive pressure on the intake and the intake valves. No matter how fast a piston moves it will not create a vacuum on a pressurized intake manifold from a turbo. I'm betting even at idle there is a few inches of pressure if you used a water or mercury manometer to check it.

 

[jaluhn83]

From what I've seen the only thing the stock CDR valve does is prevent excessive vacuum in the crankcase if the intake vacuum gets to high - ie a clogged air filter. I've seen no evidence or any official info that it has much of anything to do with oil consumption, or needs maintenance. All it is is a can with a diaphragm. Only thing that will get you vacuum on a diesel is a restricted intake.

So my $0.02, either leave it alone or run a RDT. simple.