CDR Explained

jaluhn83

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One of the common things I've seen is questions about what exactly the CDR valve is and what it does. Also, it seems pretty common for a "bad cdr" to be looked to for a cause of excessive oil consumption which makes little sense once you understand the working of the unit. My intent here is to shed a little light on the unit.

First of all, the question is what is a cdr valve? CDR stands for crankcase depression regulator. It's the can located on the back of the intake on a stock motor and mounted on the valve cover or the air box in turbo motors. Physically it's about 4" diameter and 1 1/2" thick with a 1" hole in the front face of the can going to the intake and a ~1" tube coming from the bottom of the can going to the valley pan. Functionally it's the link between the crankcase and the intake and serves to vent crankcase vapors (blowby with a small amount of vaporized oil) into the intake so that they're burned. This is similar in function to the PCV system on a gasser, but rather different in implementation due to the design of a diesel.

From my Ford 'Diesel Engine Operations' training manual:

"Some engines use a more complicated [than a simple tube from the crankcase to the intake] crankcase emissions system with a crankcase depression regulator. In this system, crankcase vapors must go through the crankcase depression regulator to get into the intake system. This device is designed to maintain pressure in the crankcase as close to atmospheric pressure as possible. A high vacuum in the crankcase will tend to draw dirt from the outside through the front and rear seals. This will result in shortened seal life. In addition, high crankcase pressure may cause lube oil to be forced out of the gaskets and seals resulting in leaks."

It is interesting that high vacuum sucking up oil causing a runaway is not mentioned as a reason for fitting the CDR system. Also note that minimizing oil consumption is not mentioned.

On a gasser the PCV system connects into the intake side of the throttle, so there is always going to be a vacuum on one side of the PCV valve. For the reasons mentioned above, it's strongly desirable to maintain nearly atmospheric pressure in the crankcase. The PCV valve thus acts as a regulator to block the crankcase off from the high intake vacuum, especially under closed throttle. Typical intake vacuum on a gasser is 15-20 inhg.

In contrast, the intake on a diesel is under a minimum of vacuum, at least as long as the inlet is free flowing. There is a slight vacuum, but it's minimal. From what I can find, this is typically ~5 in h20 (note the different units) with a healthy air filter. Of note, IH specifies a max of 25 in h20 air filter restriction. This is equal to ~0.9 psi or ~1.8 in hg. That is, the absolute max worst case plugged air filter operating condition is some 20 times less intake vacuum than a gasser. A more normal full throttle operating condition would be ~0.1 psi/0.2 in hg of vacuum. This is somewhat less than the vacuum you creating sucking soda up a straw at mcdonalds.

So now let's look at the inside of this puppy.....

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Its very simple - exactly 2 parts within the can, a spring and a diaphragm. The port of the front of the can connecting to the intake extends ~1in into the can and has a flat end. The spring goes around this, and the diaphragm is the diameter of the overall can, sealed around the edges and has a steel plate at the center against which the spring bears and which fits against the intake port tube if you compress the spring. There is a small (~1/16") hole drilled in the rear cover to vent the back side of the diaphragm to the atmosphere. The spring is fairly weak, requiring only 1.3 lb to compress far enough for the diaphragm plate to seal against the intake tube.

Note the absence of any fancy oil separators or filtration stuff. Also note that the tube leading to the valley pan protrudes ~1/4" into the can, so there is no easy drain path for any accumulated oil to drain back to the crankcase.

Based on the construction, we can establish the functioning of the valve. With the back side of the diaphragm vented to atmosphere, the position of the diagram is going to be a function of the pressure within the can. A vacuum (relative to the outside atmosphere) is going to pull the diaphragm closed against the spring tension eventually closing off the intake port completely once a high enough vacuum is reached. Based on the size of the can and spring tension, a vacuum of ~3 in h20 within the can would cause the diaphragm to close off the port. Note however, that this *does not* mean that a 3 in vacuum in the intake closes it. The can connects to both the crankcase and the intake, and the crankcase pressure is always going to be higher than the intake due to blowby. So the pressure within the can is going to be higher than the intake vacuum. Exactly by how much is a a complex function of the flow rates and restrictions within the crankcase, but it's safe to conclude that valve is going to maintain crankcase pressure somewhere around 2 in h20 of vacuum.

Now remembering the above discussion, the normal operating vacuum of your intake is 2-5 in h20 if you have a healthy filter, so the CDR really does very little in normal operation. It's only really going to come into play with a clogged air filter or some other restriction.

Note the extreme simplicity of the valve - there is very little to wear out. Possibly the diaphragm could fail, or a very remote possibly of the spring breaking. A more likely failure would be for the vent port on the back of the valve to get plugged with paint or debris. Even then though, the effect of this failure is going to be pretty minimal unless you're running around with a horrible air filter.

So in conclusion, there is very little reason why one should need to replace a CDR valve, nor is there likely to be any issues running a road draft tube provided it doesn't cause crankcase pressure to be too high.

Further, there is no reason for the CDR to have anything to do with oil consumption. The only exception would be a bad CDR combined with another problem, ie a clogged air filter.

In support of this I note that nowhere in any of my extensive tech manual reading have I seen any mention of a maintenance requirement to change the CDR valve, nor any indication that one should look to it for an oil consumption problem.

My IH manual lists the following possible reasons for high oil consumption:
-Towing extremely heavy loads
-Improper operation, ie using the wrong gear range
-Plugged air cleaner
-Worn valve guides
-Worn piston rings

So bottom line, don't waste your money.
~John
 

mohavewolfpup

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Pretty neat write up. I've given up trying to find this on my engine (hypermax turbo equipped) Not on a valve cover, doesn't appear to be on the intake, and anything that looks similar I suspect is for the vaccum system (a/c blend doors, etc) Leaning towards one of the previous owners just getting rid of it. One day it will probably fall and bean me in the head when i'm underneath!
 

f-two-fiddy

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What I've been saying for years. The only way I could ever get the CDR to close was with a very high suction shop vacuum. There's no way that the cdr is going to close during normal operation.
 

dgr

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John,
Thank you for dispelling the myths. I have a thought on excessive oil consumption. I may have to test it one of these days. Bad valve cover gaskets will prevent any intake vacuum from being able to create vacuum in the crankcase. We end up with a hole in the back of the intake via the CDR that has what amounts to no restriction. The valve covers don't leak much because the air being pulled through the gaps in them is constantly pushing any splashed oil out of the gaps. So all that air is being sucked through the crankcase, picking up oil vapor and being sent through the cylinders and out the exhaust pipe.

thoughts?
 

Agnem

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If you are turbo equipped the odds of ever having a vacuum in your crankcase are very low, provided that your CDR works as advertised.
 

jaluhn83

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DGR,

I doubt that's an issue. First of all, the crankcase vacuum is very very low, if even a vacuum. You may even have a slight positive pressure. I know my BMW diesel (524td) has positive pressure because I get blowby out of the crack in the oil dipstick tube. Actually come to think of it you do have positive pressure - when you pull the cap off the oil filler you get flow out, not air suction in.

With your theory you'd be getting visible blowby out of all the valve cover leaks at idle.

I also think you'd need a pretty significant amount of air flow to suck up that much oil and cause noticeable oil consumption.

I *think* what causes oil consumption in these engines in the normal ring and valve guide wear, along with leakage.

It doesn't take much oil to coat the intake and make it *look* like there's tons of oil going through there. If it really was that much you'd see all kinds of oil everywhere running an rdt which doesn't seem to be that common.

1 qt ever 1000 miles translates to 1 tablespoon every ~20 miles. Take a tablespoon of oil and throw it all over the bottom of your truck and see how it looks. It's going to be pretty noticeable.
 

PwrSmoke

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John,

Well done! Nice explanation and solid reasoning. I love learning stuff!

I will add one thing RE aftermarket turbos... at least some of the old ones from Banks... complicate things a bit. If you look at the pic below you will see how Banks relocated the CDR (3) onto the airbox upside down on my gen 1 Banks. The vapor line (2) connects to an adapter on the oil fill (1). This works fine but Banks suggested the CDR be removed occasionally to drain the oil. When my engine was nice and tight, I could drain out a quarter cup or so every coupla years. As the engine got more miles and more blowby, I had to do it more often and it ended up being about an eighth cup at each oil change. Still not too onerous. Then I decided to install a bypass filter and plumb the return into the filler adapter. Crankcase pressure was blowing the oil right up the line and filling the CDR within 50-100 miles. It didn't smoke excessively but I was going thru a LOT of oil until I was enlightened by the friendly IDO folks at the '12 rally about the existance of the oil return port on the front of the block.

Anyway, the point is that aftermarket kits may or may not mount the CDR in a good spot and it may collect oil. The OE setup will collect oil but it can immediately drain down. In the case of the gen 1 and gen 2 Banks, not so.

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jaluhn83

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I think the stock CDR would have much the same drainage issues. There's a nice lip on the inside to it's going to puddle decently in there and obviously is not designed to drain back. Plus any drainage would tend to get broken up and thrown right back up by the air flow through there.

Where's this drain port you speak of??? That's useful info! Course I just got done brazing no less than 4 3/8 npt ports into my oil pan so it's now a nonissue for me......
 

riotwarrior

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Write up is absolutely terrific It is just unfortunate that I cannot see what is going on

OMG HOW I wish people would just link from photobucket....

Stupid page errors and no pictures with attachments. DOH!
 

madpogue

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Photos show up fine if you follow the links. The problem with external links like Photobucket is that they FAIL for those visiting from locations that block the external site (and Photobucket is a very commonly blocked site).
 

PwrSmoke

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Where's this drain port you speak of??? That's useful info! Course I just got done brazing no less than 4 3/8 npt ports into my oil pan so it's now a nonissue for me......

It's on the front of the head, just above the block deck. It's an Allen head plug and it goes into the rocker area oil return, which goes back into the block. Justin (cdx825) clued me into it's location at the '12 rally (thanks again Justin). I've attached a crappy pic (I have a $2000 camera and I paste a cell phone pic ( : < ) taken when I rerouted the bypass return there. Slick as oiled spaghetti! I believe its there for larger trucks with air brakes as a compressor oil return.

Tell us what you plan to do with the four ports... one for oil temp perhaps? Had my head not been up my ******, I would have added a port for that purpose when I had the engine apart... . I even had the bung sitting there read to go! Brain flatulence, I guess. I used to have a dipstick tube oil temp test device, which I swapped around to different engines, but it was old and finally died a few years ago... though not before I did a bunch of testing on the 6.9L. Learned some interesting things... but that's another tale.



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