c6 torque converter install tips/specs

jayro88

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Hello,
I am installing a new torque converter in my '88 E250 with a c6. Any tips/pointer for doing this would be appriciated.

Also, does anyone happen to know the torque specs for the torque converter studs?

Thanks
 

jas88

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The most important thing is to get it seated all the way into the pump. To check this, see if you can get your fingers around the outside of the conveter to where you can touch the backside (closest to the trans) of the converter with your fingertips. If you can, you do not have it all the way in.

Once you get the trans stabbed, snug it up with the bellhousing bolts and then use a breakover bar and socket on the harmonic balancer to see if you can turn the motor. If it won't turn, pull the trans back out and reseat the converter. If you try to start the motor with it like that, it will immediately wreck the pump.
 

Agnem

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My advice would be to mount the converter on the trans, making sure it is properly seated, and then mount the bell housing to the engine. You can fasten all the torque converter to flex plate bolts through the access cover. I originally did it the way the jas 88 suggested, but I had it in wrong and heard the aluminum of the bell housing creaking as I tightened it up. That made me cringe. underneath the truck, the odds of getting it seated right are not that good. Putting the torque converter on the trans, all you have to do is get the hub on the back of the converter to slip into the flex plate, and you will be good.
 

riotwarrior

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I take some long bolts that fit the back of engine plate and cut off heads cut slot for a screw driver and lightly grind down diameter a bit and use those as GUIDE bolts for the trans to slide on to engine...this prevents side to side and you can keep an eye on the angle so the face of bell housing and block are parallel

Take your time is the key don't be in a rush, and as mentioned ensure that the TQ is seated correctly. If it is the trans and engine will go together quite easy.

Also clean all bell housing bolts with wire brush or wire wheel and do best you can to clean out holes for bolts in block this makes sticking bolts in with fingers much much easier...

JM2CW

Oh and a proper transmission jack...rented if needed...is worth it's weight in gold IMHO
 

trackspeeder

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Mount the converter to the tranny. This way you know its fully seated. Make sure the pilot hole is clean. Place a little grease on the converter pilot. Line it up and install. Dowel pins will keep you in line. :Thumbs Up
 

jas88

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I am not sure what you guys think I meant, OF COURSE you put the converter on the tranny, but the main point is to seat the converter all the way in so it is engaging the transmission pump. Hell, anybody can get it on the input shaft, the key point here is to get it all the way in so you are not jamming the pump when you tighten the bellhousing. My tips are for making sure you get the converter all the way in.
 

jayro88

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Thanks for all the advice. I will insure that I install the converter on the trans and get it fully seated prior to bolting the trans up.

I have been reading up on it and watching videos. Looks pretty simple. Hoping it goes smooth.
 

Darrin Tosh

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What Torque converter are you installing? I have been wondering about the TCI Maximizer, seems like it would be a good option since it is designed to be closer to a lock up TC for the C6,..
 

jayro88

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What Torque converter are you installing? I have been wondering about the TCI Maximizer, seems like it would be a good option since it is designed to be closer to a lock up TC for the C6,..

I looked into that one. It got good reviews and looks to be a quality unit. I was deciding between it and a Hughes Converter.

I ended up going with the Hughes Performance F43XFM - Hughes Performance Extreme Towing Diesel Torque Converters. The Summit Racing site has some errors in the description of this item. It says that it isn't brazed when it actually is. It also says it has a triple disc lock up clutch which it doesn't since c6 torque converters don't lock. I contacted Hughes directly to verify these discrepancies. I went with this one because it was specifically designed for towing and has a stall between 1000-1200 Rpms.

Hughes has a "Fuel Miser" converter that looks to be comparable to the TCI Maximizer.

Either of them would seem to be a good upgrade for our stock ones.

They both appear to have similar stalls and are designed to limit slippage. Should help efficiency and reduce trans temps.
 

icanfixall

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When any torque converter is properly installed on the trans you will have about 18 inch clearance between the converter and the flexplate. Its a small gap and you can spin the converter without it rubbing the flexplate. Trying to use the bellhousing bolts to pull the trans to the engine can ruin the front pump if the converter is not in place correctly. When your looking at the end of the converter you will see a tab about 3/8 inch cut out of the drive end of the part that sticks into the trans. Thats the part that must be set in the trans drive dog correctly. When it does drop in place you will see and feel it happen. Then make sure it does not slip out of the trans when you attempt installing it. Thats stub on the flexplate end of the converter is almost size on size to the crankshaft spacer. Thats where the grease is needed.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Hey, icanfixall, Ford torque converters use studs that go through the flexplate. When installed properly, you can still move the torque converter by wiggling the studs after the bellhousing bolts are tight. Just slide the trans up to the engine slowly, however you do it, and keep checking that you can still move the converter. If there's a point that you can't move it by hand, stop. You can and probably will damage the transmission. That's from experience.
 
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