Bypassing the starter switch on column

Cruiseomatic

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What hes saying is, The FSS isn't getting substantial flux from the capacitor because the pixies in the batteries aren't getting to the capacitor so the FSS isn't getting the 1.21 Giga-watts needed to disrupt the space-time continuim fabric threading thus unable to reach 88 MPH. Confused more?

Do a simple 3 position switch. Off-Run-Start style. Would be the best option really. If this is the truck I think it is, Go with the race style we were talking about. Just don't forget about a way to keep it from getting stolen.
 

jwalterus

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Do a simple 3 position switch. Off-Run-Start style. Would be the best option really. If this is the truck I think it is, Go with the race style we were talking about. Just don't forget about a way to keep it from getting stolen.

The ignition switch for a 1967? Chevy step van from NAPA IIRC is $20, and has 4 screw terminals on the back, mounts through a 3/4" hole.

I had to replace one a few years ago.
 

Cruiseomatic

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Exactly. Normally I'm against a setup like that for a street vehicle but I've seen this truck and feel bad for him and the truck. I know on bricknose gen, 1 yellow 10 ga. and 1 black-ish 10 ga. feed all the cab power. Red/blue stripe is starter trigger. If willing, I could make this truck run on maybe 3 wires. 1 for master power, 1 for fuel pump/fss power, 1 for starter trigger. Both FSS and fuel pump have a 12-ish ga. wire. The FSS draws very little power. So a 14 could run both easily. Starter wire for relay isn't but maybe 18 ga and a 10 could run just about everything needed easily. That is a barebone get it running setup. There are other loads that need taken into consideration but this would work.
 

79jasper

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Either way.
I guess it'd be harder to blow up the 24 volt switch. Lol we know they can stand the abuse.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

ifrythings

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Mite want to check the transmission range switch before hacking the harness, have you tried starting in neutral or pushing up/down on the gear shifter?

The start circuit is very basic on these trucks, it's a red with blue strip wire that comes out of the ignition switch, through the firewall then down to the transmission and right back up (usually through the same plug) then to the starter relay. Try following it first before putting another switch in.
 

madpogue

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True, the START circuit is quite simple. The rest of the ignition switch, not so much. There are multiple pairs of contacts that open and close with the key in the RUN position, so a simple three-position switch won't do it. A quick study of the EVTM will show just what you'd need to do to completely bypass the ignition switch.

Of course, TESTING is cheaper, easier, and waaay less of a hack. Again, a quick look at the EVTM and a voltmeter is all you need to troubleshoot what is and isn't happening with the switch in each position.
 

Waystro

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Got push button in. But no power to glow plugs or fss i put a known good glowplug harness in and same thing.
It cranks but not spinning real fast.
 

franklin2

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Got push button in. But no power to glow plugs or fss i put a known good glowplug harness in and same thing.
It cranks but not spinning real fast.

Those are powered by the ignition switch. Your original problem I am guessing.
 

Waystro

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Done fusible links
Going to replace the ip and see what that does for the fss problem
 

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