busted petcock...

[jim_22]

Anybody replace a broken radiator petcock? I am in the habit of draining my radiator each year. The last time I broke the petcock; the wing nut snapped right off. I wanted to replace the whole threaded part but it would not come out. Instead I unscrewed it all the way until it locked and then tapped in a stainless screw with marine caulking. Any ideas for a better fix or just leave it as it does not leak?
Thanks,
Jim

 

[icanfixall]

Why doesn't it just turn out? Maybe try removing it after things are warmed up. It shouldn't be that tight in the radiator. Try tapping it lightly because this hitting the threaded parts sometimes will shock the threaded connection and break things loose. Otherwise its remove the radiator and send it to the shop. A good rad shop can remove the broken part.

 

[cleithau]

Use some PB Blaster on it, and tapping it. PB Blaster is the best thing I have found for rusted and corroded thread.

 

[icanfixall]

Aerokroil made by Kano Labs beats PB Blaster any day. They have a deal. You buy one can and get another free. If you don't like it send the used can back and keep the full can. I've used it for over 35 years and it has always worked fine. It will creep into a space 1 millionth of an inch. Adding just a little heat makes it work even better. They have a really neet web site. I was going to bring some to the Ralley but... The over $3000.00 fuel cost keeps me home on the west coast..... The $3000.00 fuel cost will get me a new Gear Vendors.....

 

[redneckaggie]

when i broke the petcock off mine i just drilled, tapped and threaded a npt thread cap into where the petcock used to be not much trouble at all but then again i already had the rad out of the truck to acid wash it.

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

Anybody replace a broken radiator petcock? I am in the habit of draining my radiator each year. The last time I broke the petcock; the wing nut snapped right off. I wanted to replace the whole threaded part but it would not come out. Instead I unscrewed it all the way until it locked and then tapped in a stainless screw with marine caulking. Any ideas for a better fix or just leave it as it does not leak?
Thanks,
Jim

When you manage to get this out you should consider replacing with a drain **** that has a forged shut off. Parker makes them in brass, part number DC603-4 for quarter inch npt, DC603-6 for 3/8 npt. I don't sell any other version as it's nice to be able to put a wrench on the valve without worrying about breaking anything off.

Good luck getting the old one out, I have soldered many replacement bung in the bottom of radiators back when I lived in Ohio (the winter road salt capitol of the world)