Body Lift kits wont fit diesel models?

FordCoalRoller

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So I have looked for and found quite a few body lift kits for our trucks. However, they all seem to say that they will not work with models with diesel engines. I can't really think of a valid reason for this other than possible the radiator size. I have done lift kits on gas vehicles before and that can be the only reason I can think of. Does anyone have any other ideas or actual reason why these kits won't work? Or maybe someone has done the lift and it worked great. Thanks.
 

fx4wannabe

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I think its more of a safety thing so the companies say that to keep people from doing it. The body lift technically decreases the payload. Otherwise everything will work. The bodies are all the same.
 

riotwarrior

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IIRC this issue stems stricty from heads hitting the firewall on the drivers side......

NOT a payload issue as a F2/350 with a gasser or diesel would decrease payload accordingly regardless of engine if that was the case!

Not sure why...check with manufacturer...

From what I've learned on here the 2" has not the same issue of firewall hitting head on drivers side that the 3" kit's do. Most say 1-2" lifts are ok...but highly recommend staying away from 3"


FYI

I'm all set to install a 3" lift in mine....I buck the trend...and I need to for the custom application I'm creating
 

FordCoalRoller

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Well if the only problem is a little bit of contact with the head that seems easily fixable(may require a hammer). The one thing I was not a fan of with the lift kit I did on my old danger ranger was the bolt provided were only grade 5. I would have felt a little better with a set of 8's.
 

riotwarrior

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Well if the only problem is a little bit of contact with the head that seems easily fixable(may require a hammer). The one thing I was not a fan of with the lift kit I did on my old danger ranger was the bolt provided were only grade 5. I would have felt a little better with a set of 8's.

Ya hardware is an issue you have to make a choice of upgrading or not....

I'm a fan of Gr 8 hardware myself and using strictly that level.

Also you will have to deal with clutch MC/SL cyl lines, brake lines, electrical wiring and rad hoses and fan interference along with fuel filler extensions etc,

There is a bit of work to do, though it's all completely manageable.

With my swap, I'm marking the section of the floor pan / fire wall where the head can hit, and I'll mod that accordingly prior to cab swap, along with some clearance mods for the down pipe for the turbo setup. As well, I have to make my electric fan shroud setup prior to my body swap so I can have a solid method of cooling my truck and also I will address my rad hoses too, that about sums up most of my issues!

Other than that...It's all golden

Al
 

Double-S-Diesel

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had 3" body lifts on my 92 idi and my 96 psd
on the 92 the dr side head hit, on the 96 the head hit and I had to modify the 4x4 lever and cut the floor pan for the zf 5 shifter to fit right
 

160k87F250

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I have a 2 inch body lift on mine, and all is fine. I modified and lowered the fan shroud, and there was slight contact with the head (left side, I think) that was taken care of with a big pry bar!!!

John
 

jaluhn83

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Okay, maybe I'm missing something, but how does lifting the cab cause the firewall to interfere with the head????

Also, who offers a 1" kit for these trucks? I looked at LMC but they only had 2 & 3". Does the lift kit include the actual cab mount rubber or is it just the spacers? I'm thinking of changing the mounts on my rig since they're close to 30 year old rubber and look like it and was thinking of doing a slight lift at the same time to help with turbo clearance.

Thanks,
~John
 

riotwarrior

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1" kit....is usually a hockey puck lift...

Crawl under your truck, look up at drivers side, you'll figure it out very quickly...I asked the same question and once crawling under and looking I found the answer better than a typed written response!

I have a nice polyeurathane body mount kit for my truck when I do my body lift...should be freakin awesome!
 

sle2115

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I have a 2" body lift and Poly mounts on my cab (bed was not changed as it is a flat/dump bed) and I had NO issues with head contact. I also read that they use grade 5 on purpose because grade 5 bolts will bend and stretch a little if needed, harder bolts, like grade eight will break rather than stretch as they are not malleable. Won't argue either way, just what I read in several places when researching my own body lift.
 

riotwarrior

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... I also read that they use grade 5 on purpose because grade 5 bolts will bend and stretch a little if needed, harder bolts, like grade eight will break rather than stretch as they are not malleable. Won't argue either way, just what I read in several places when researching my own body lift.
Had same info as you do ....I upped the size of the bolt on my first body lift to 1/2" grade 8 all around myself!

I'm all over thicker n stronger...

I don't think it will matter much when I get a cage inside and exo outside on the rig!...Just saying

JM2CW....
 

sle2115

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Had same info as you do ....I upped the size of the bolt on my first body lift to 1/2" grade 8 all around myself!

I'm all over thicker n stronger...

I don't think it will matter much when I get a cage inside and exo outside on the rig!...Just saying

JM2CW....

I'd say you are right and I used 1/2" grade eights as well! lol I found Bronco hardware that fit perfectly and was threaded to 1/2"! Better all the way around as far as I'm concerned.
 

redneckaggie

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grade 8's are way overkill, the sheet metal you are bolting through would snap before you broke a grade 5


jmo not trying to start a riot just throwing that out there
 

War Wagon

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Anyone done the hockey puck lift? I was thinking about it. If only going up 1" does anything else need to be modded or extended? Never done a body lift before. I wouldn't want to modify anything else if I could help it. I would even consider going a half or three quarter inch.
 
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