Black vs Grey

[riotwarrior]

So working to sort out some E40D maladies..

My 91 uses a GREY neutral safety switch
My other transmissions in stock have Black ones.

My 91 harness where it crosses from frame to trams...the part all whacked I repaired w but connectors has 19 wires.

My other harness a 92 has 18

The difference being the speed sensor for tcase on 91 vs axle on 92.

That being said I cam swap the nss from grey to black and have a good plug so that makes less cuts and joins in harness repair

Now is the solenoid pack same plug between years. If so I habe a decent plug for that from a 2wd van so I can scab it into the harness.

Once I get a decent setup done I think the tc may function correctly for lockup and such. Right now it isnt and I am betting it is the green goo and breaking wires and missing insulation BAD JUJU on solenoid pack wiring....

If combining 3 harnesses to make one work...eh...*** right????

Suggestions welcomed.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

The color of the range sensor (MLPS) doesn't matter.It should be updated/re-pinned to take the newer style sensor.

All 89-94 solenoid packs and plugs are the same.There's nothing wrong with repairing a harness.I would just make sure to cut back past any corrosion and add in new wire if needed,then make sure it's all heat shrinked.Should be as good as new.When you buy a new "repair harness" which is the solenoid connector to repair a damaged one,this is how you repair that so,it's just the same as repairing it there,as it is wherever else it broke.

 

[riotwarrior]

The color of the range sensor (MLPS) doesn't matter.It should be updated/re-pinned to take the newer style sensor.

All 89-94 solenoid packs and plugs are the same.There's nothing wrong with repairing a harness.I would just make sure to cut back past any corrosion and add in new wire if needed,then make sure it's all heat shrinked.Should be as good as new.When you buy a new "repair harness" Which is the solenoid connector to repair a damaged one,this is how you repair that so,it's just the same as repairing it there,as it is wherever else it broke.

Please explain the updated pinned part I am oblivious to this wondermemt

 

[riotwarrior]

This is the method I will utilize once this dilema gets sorted out.

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There really isnt a better method other than a brand new haress.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

Very slick! I hope the inverter becomes a millionaire,if he's not already.

 

[riotwarrior]

Very slick! I hope the inverter becomes a millionaire,if he's not already.

They are sweet but ...hurt the wallet as they are $pendy...however if doing something like this its hands down the best solution IMHO.

LOOKS like a new Tech101 on the horizon...been while.

I may do a hack job w std blue butts and replace solenoid plug first w current harness...to test theory and check if its issue.

I get what seems like lock up of tc at low speed because coming to stop it shudders hard but I can pop it to 2nd and all good.

Not knowing these behemoths behaviours and such makes it troublesome to know rigjt from wrong and what symptoms are.

But ya those style connectorz are the bomb

 

[ifrythings]

Just another option that doesn't cost you money is you can reuse the factory ends and have it look like you never touched it.

For barrel ends I break off the original crimp and solder the wire into the left over barrel, I do pre tin the wire and barrel, also that part of the barrel is just used for detainment in the plug end, just don't glob solder all over it or you will have to file it back down to size. This applies for both male and female pins.

You must be registered for see images attach

For most of the other pins that look like this picture just unbend the area holding the insulation and cut/break the wire at the crimp, then solder your new wire onto the crimp (again pre tin the wire and crimp area to aid in easement) and bend the insulation holding area back onto the new wire and your done (again don't glob on the solder or have wire ends poking out all over as that will prevent it from going back into the connector).

You must be registered for see images attach

With both of these pictures I did both ends of the wire to show that it can be done and look factory, also before you say this is a weak connection I've pulled on these ends as hard as I can and either I rip the whole pin out of the connector in tact or it breaks the pin in the middle, never on the soldered/repair spot.

For the second pic spade type looking pins, those are used in a ton of connectors, just to name a few to possibly rob from a donor harness:
head light plug,
map sensor plug,
daytime running lamp plug,
cruise control plug (newer electric style),
ignition control module plug (gasser),
neutral safety switch (old or updated style),
newer style wiper motor plug,
fuel tank selector valve, just to name a few.

If you do it this way you have water proof connection and not have to spend a ton of money on glue impregnated heat shrink or other fancy ends.

 

[riotwarrior]

Just another option that doesn't cost you money is you can reuse the factory ends and have it look like you never touched it.

For barrel ends I break off the original crimp and solder the wire into the left over barrel, I do pre tin the wire and barrel, also that part of the barrel is just used for detainment in the plug end, just don't glob solder all over it or you will have to file it back down to size. This applies for both male and female pins.

You must be registered for see images attach

For most of the other pins that look like this picture just unbend the area holding the insulation and cut/break the wire at the crimp, then solder your new wire onto the crimp (again pre tin the wire and crimp area to aid in easement) and bend the insulation holding area back onto the new wire and your done (again don't glob on the solder or have wire ends poking out all over as that will prevent it from going back into the connector).

You must be registered for see images attach

With both of these pictures I did both ends of the wire to show that it can be done and look factory, also before you say this is a weak connection I've pulled on these ends as hard as I can and either I rip the whole pin out of the connector in tact or it breaks the pin in the middle, never on the soldered/repair spot.

For the second pic spade type looking pins, those are used in a ton of connectors, just to name a few to possibly rob from a donor harness:
head light plug,
map sensor plug,
daytime running lamp plug,
cruise control plug (newer electric style),
ignition control module plug (gasser),
neutral safety switch (old or updated style),
newer style wiper motor plug,
fuel tank selector valve, just to name a few.

If you do it this way you have water proof connection and not have to spend a ton of money on glue impregnated heat shrink or other fancy ends.

I can see the value of this method however there are times not unlike this instance where wire replacement due to damage requires mid point repairs. Also the ends of the harness in ? are themselves corroded and in need of a complete replacement as salvaging those pims are questionable.

Then there is the Time vs Money spent and for me in this situation I will spend the $ not the time for a fast efficient repair.

In the past I have done some repairs like your description and it does work amazingly well. I appreciate your input here as others may elect to utilkze this for a repair.