Biodiesel WVO anyone running in there IDI

bj58

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Ive been reading the last few days on making biodiesel with WVO
Just wanted to see if anyone is running this in our trucks?

Any problems or suggestion to look out for.
 

Devon Harley

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I run bio with clean veggi brewed up great stuff I love it. I also run wvo with #2 works great. The first has more power less smoke. Second less power more smoke. I like them both the bio is my favorite though works really well. I purge to #2 I flip the tanks 3 miles from my house dont try to purge it at idle in drive way it doesn't work 3 miles from home is best IMHO. I do not run a heater an have no problems. My gp system is in top shape though.
 

bj58

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Devon, do you process the WVO or just run it as is.

I plan on processing it into biodiesel. Do I need to purge the bio from the system before I turn the truck off?
 

Devon Harley

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Yes I process it lye an methanol wash an dry I use clean soybean oil not waste that's been cooked with. It's awsome get a (pyro an you can crank up the fuel) more than number to. There is only light grey smoke I run a regular lift pump as well. I do see a carrier pump doing a better job. Lift works just fine though. ok that makes more power processed an clean soy oil. Now waste veggi oil WVO I mix with #2 or red dye. I see a small loss in power but about same mpg one less. I have not processed WVO to make bio diesel I would awsome that it's fine but that's just how I do it. When I make it with clean oil I love it works amazing an power increase nothing crazy but the real part is egt more fuel an it's cooler. I would build a nice custom intake to suck some air an use that. I have only ran this in my turbo srw 89 now my drw 93 n/a hasn't got a mix yet I have built a custom intake getting a return line kit an pop test injectors 106k original ip injectors. An then I will run it an check mpg. My turbo srw gets 16 with bio process none process 14-15. My drw is only getting 13 so I hope it gets better with bio an pop test.
 

bbjordan

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I run 100% bio in three of my trucks. I love it even tho it has a little less power. 9% less energy density to be precise. It has a higher Cetane rating: approx. 50 compared to #2 which is around 40-42, so it requires less timing advance. My timing is currently set at 8 degrees advance Pulse Timing Method. I disconnected the cold advance solenoid too, because it rattles too much for my liking when it is cold. If you are going to make your own, make sure you do the water test and the methanol test. Buy a bunch of fuel filters too. Biodiesel is an amazing cleaner. It will clean your fuel tanks, and eventually plug your fuel filter. When you are moving it around from tank to tank remember to filter. Did I mention to filter? Filter, filter, filter. :)
 

Devon Harley

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I live in San Diego an min is 22-30 in the mountains in the winter an I will purg it three miles away from my stop switch tanks cause I'm camping an shutting down for two days. Switch tanks in this weather an purg three miles from shut down. Not for a min in the drive way. I would purg if it was not summer. I have a light mix though depends on yours. In the winter if gonna set a whole day or two or more purg it.
 

Kevin 007

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It can happen within a few days in some cases; depends on how dirty your system is. But its the first few weeks/months that can be tough to deal with but then your fuel system will be super clean. And it may not be bad at all, just depends on how dirty it is.
I also run a Racor 2 micron filter/water seperator on my 84 for extra precaution. I have had sticking metering valve issues in the past after running a bio blend...just worth noting. They cleared up with an ATF treatment
 

bj58

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Here in the south the temp is not to bad.
We might get 2 or 3 days a year in the teens, most of the time it's in the upper 30's lower 40's. Hell this year I think christmas was in the upper 60's
I might be wrong. but U get my point.
I've ran the heater in AM and the AC in the PM. (Thats for the house)

My plan is to remove/disconnect the rear fuel tank and put a 100G tank in the bead and run Bio in it. plum it to the tank switch in the cab. I will keep the front tank for store diesel.

do you guys run the oil thru a fuge? I've not decided on what type of Bio processor I want to make. I'm leaning ******* a all in one processor, Dry,filter, process, wash, dry and then pump to the truck.
I have about 100G of oil on hand. :)
 

smolkin

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The whole reason I started driving a diesel was the WVO/bio thing. I started off with WVO and customizing the truck to run it (HotFox, VegTherm, hose-in-hose heater), but finally decided making bio was the better method because it's just easier to make a stationary processor. To each their own, but my experience with WVO cost me about what I would have spent on pump diesel during that period (factoring in down-time and customizing, including a new IP). But making bio costs only about $.77 a gal.
Right now the set-up I built with my friend is in Baldwin Co. but once I get the truck back at 100% I'm going to bring it back over here. I was just using the NaOH / methanol process, no washing, just 2 weeks settling, with great results. I think my friend is out of the game now b/c his new '12 Jetta TDI will invalidate its warranty if it drinks higher than B5. PM me if you would like "in" on this or if you need any help setting up yours.
 

riotwarrior

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I'm running WVO and it's not too bad at all...I find I have better power and less smoke, I have gone through a few filters and hopefully it's getting better. I didn't do a good job apparently last time I filtered and within a few short miles it clogged leaving me stranded.

In as much as I can I filter manually. I"ll be getting a centrifuge shortly, that should help with WVO processing and I'll add it into Stove Oil, that ought to work well for some winter fuel too...50/50

Anyway, I'm pleased I've got myself going on it and find that the fuel cost savings are very substantial.
 

Boston

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I started out using WVO and it works OK as long as you purge the system well enough, if not you will get a sticky residue build up on the internals and it well eventually be a big problem. Bio solves this issue, which for me was worth spending the 80 cents a gallon to make it. I'm still working on a major rebuild of the entire truck, but I've driven it enough to know you can get plenty of power out of bio, I also run WMO which is great stuff, just filter it very well and your off.

Have fun with it
B
 

bj58

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I know I want to convert the WVO into Bio and run just Bio.
because my truck is not a daily drive I plan on keeping the processor small 30G max.
although if the savings is worth the time It might became a daily drive ;)
I plan on washing the Bio after processing then drying.

I had an idea to help with the filters.
I was thinking I could remove the fuel line from the lifter pump, then connect a line back to the fuel tank with a inline filter. add say 10G of bio and a pump and let it run for a few hours or more. then drain the 10G and add fresh Bio. I think this would help a lot to clean the tank and fuel lines.
 

Boston

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Drop the tanks, take em to the car wash and use the engine cleaner on them. Replace the lines with superthane from US plastics and replace everything rubber with viton. Oh and I'm not sure if the stock lift pump had rubber in it but I swapped it out anyway for a Carrier pump and made a cover plate for the hole in the block. Better safe than sorry, if there is a rubber diaphragm in that thing and it blows out, your engine is cooked

I also got rid of that old crappy rakor fuel filter set up and replaced it with a duel filter bracket mounted under the frame rail, but I'm thinking of eliminating that cause the Carrier lift pump has its own filter.

Don't wast your time trying to dissolve all that sludge in the tanks and run it through your injectors, its IMHO just not worth it.
 

bj58

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Smolkin letting it settle for two weeks does that do the same as washing?
I would like to come and see your setup
Pm sent
 
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