Better, but she still runs hot towing!

[typ4]

Copper radiators transfer heat better than aluminum. Mine runs hot when loaded also but I have a huge PS intercooler in front, I took my grill out and dropped almost 20 degrees, I have all mechanical gauges. I couldnt believe the difference, so the grill stays out all summer this year.

 

[Darrin Tosh]

It's frustrating having it feel like it is almost cooling well enough. I am interested in anybody who had custom radiators built.

I am shure Travis (argve) will chime in soon,...

 

[argve]

I had a custom 4 core rad built from my local rad shop - it had double the fin count per inch and she cooled like a son of a gun. My experiences are the same as you (turbo'd IDI - high flow exhaust Ford Tstat) and still she was hot until I got the rad built - if you dig through the search feature with ACE Radiator or MS Tech clutch you should find the post. I'll look as well.

 

[Jim73]

Thanks, Travis!

Will look - couldn't remember that fan clutch maker name...

Any recollection on how much you had to lay out for the big radiator?

Jim

 

[icanfixall]

Hi Jim... Sorry you are still having overheating issues. How many miles are on the injection pump and are you running any fuel suplament like Stanadyne?
the cooling system should be able to handle the heat you are making unless the pump is pushing too much fuel into it. How much black smoke is comming out the tail pipe when your climbing? Are you still running the stock muffler? Whats happening is your making more heat but its hard to tell where and why its doing that. The MS tech clutch is really nice but before you go throwing more money and parts at it have Dave at Diesel Tune time it for you. Be sure to ask what is was before and after. It may just be time for another injection upmp. Has your mileage gone down?

 

[Jim73]

Hi buddy!

I've run Stanadyne Performance every tank since getting the truck two years ago, but truthfully, I don't drive her enough to have much of a mileage record. Getting about 10 towing, but I am always going over grades to get to those high, dark places I love!

My Dad swore by Marvel Mystery Oil because some OTR truckers running IH engines told him to use it in the late 80s, so that is what the IP saw for the bulk of it's life. When the ULSD appeared I took to using Stanadyne Lubricity in addition to my Performace formula. Dad installed a second Raycor fuel filter/separator assembly upstream of the stocker, also at a trucker's suggestion, and I still run that setup.

I'm getting VERY little black smoke even at WOT. Stock 88 injectors, though they did turn up the max delivery when they installed the ATS turbo. As far as I know, original IP. Runnning through the Banks Powerpack muffler, now 18 years old, but no external corrosion visible. The truck lived in Phoenix every winter and for several years prior to my acquiring her.

I'll get her over to Downey and let Dave have at it and report results after I get back from a non-IDI road trip to Ohio for a family reunion in a couple of weeks. You guys told me to do that last year, and I should've paid attention.

I do feel like I probably should've been more persistant last year trying to find somebody to build me a Heatex radiator like Travis has, but the closest shop Heatex did business with was in San Diego and they weren't interested enough in my money to return my calls after our initial conversation. I won't do business with shops like that if I can avoid it, so I went with that 4-row we installed.

Again, all of you guys, my sincere thanks for your help and suggestions. I probably would've sold the old girl if not for your guidance.

Jim

 

[argve]

I want to say by the time I got done I had a grand in the Rad but you have understand that I went through mulitple rads to get to the cooling point where no matter what I did the water temp stayed under control. I was towing our 31ft TT (tall as a 5er) and tipped in at 9200~9500lbs then the E was at 8k lbs and I tried to overheat her with the last rad because I wanted a 2 core alum but John at ACE RADIATOR didn't want to make that step yet so I wanted to prove him wrong so pulling up Jellico mountian on I75 in KY/TN I put my foot to the floor and held it - when I got to the top I called John and told him "This radiator is one cooling son of a *****" excuse my language but trust me I was at my wits end. But I listed the part numbers to everything so you can get a local guy to get the same parts - I used my stock upper and lower tanks just replaced the core. We didnt want to go with the 5 row because of air flow through the rad - John said that more cores would really hender the air flow but more fins would as well but not as much - he said the biggest key was fin to tube contact area which this rad excelled in. He said the next step would be my alumnium that I wanted but he wanted this first because of cost.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Midnight Rider how did you go about pinning the fan clutch i live in the heart of the heat in az and i am thinking of the same thing

thanks
Dave

If you think your clutch is OKAY, then get a junker (or several) from a mechanic/garage to experiment on.

With the clutch on the bench, fan off, usually on the radiator side will be some flat territory.

Center-punch for at least four (more if there is room) holes through the flat areas.

Drill appropriate sized holes through the cover, that can be tapped for 5/16 bolts.

Thread the holes.

With plenty of thread-locker, tighten the bolts into the holes (short bolts that will bottom out against the cover, once snug).

You will feel the bolts pressing the clutches together; just keep tightening until everything bottoms out.

Put her on the engine and give it a test.

Check the bolts several times a day, for the first couple days, then once a day for a week, then each time you check the oil.

If a bolt backed out, it might eat a radiator.

If the cover is too thin to take threads, I have drilled completely through everything, in minimum of three spots, and put bolts (grade 8) through the whole thing, with LOCKED nuts on the other side.

Once you have a direct-drive fan, that is the END of all that clutch slipping nonsense.