BEST WAY TO REPLACE DOOR HINGE PINS ??

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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On my 1985 F-350, what is the best method of pin replacement.

I saw somewhere that they scribed around the hinges, on the door side, removed the door, replaced the pins/bushings, then screwed the door back on, lining up the marks.


Is this the best method ??

Are there any tech articles on this ??

I did this many thousands of miles ago; it has been so long that I have forgotten just how I went about it.

Thanks.
 

jimraelee

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personally I dont like to scribe the paint... scratches can eventually cause rust... I perfer a pointed majic marker, or sharpee... fine point can outline just perfect for my eyes...
 

RLDSL

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Best way??? Best way is take it to a body shop where they have those nifty door hoists to hold the door in place and pay them :D Takes those guys about 3 minutes.
I hate wrestling those things.
Man, getting old sucks :rotflmao

-------Robert
 

f-two-fiddy

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Don't remove the hinges!

Just get a spring tool, and remove the spring. Then winch the door to the ceiling rafters, not to tight, just enough to keep the door from falling. Do one pin at a time.
 

Shadetreemechanic

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Its been awhile since I did mine, but all I did was cut the old one off slid bushings in and drove the new one in. No fancy tools, just a leatherman and a hacksaw I think.
 

Double-S-Diesel

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I pulled the doors on the 95, but they wer out of wack so marking them didnt matter.
when I first got the 96 CC I had the body shop do it. and I believe they also pulled the doors.
 

BigRigTech

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I do them on the truck, I grind the head off the old pin with a cut off wheel on a 90* die grinder, drive out the old pin, pull the door, put in the new bushings, put the door back on and put the new pins back in. This way the door adjustment is not touched. The usually close like new.....I have yet to put a set on my 91, it needs them bad...LOL
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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HALF MISSION ACCOMPLISHED

I thought I had replaced the door pins on this truck before, but had not, as the pins were still riveted/swaged in the holes.

I gathered my arsenal of metal cutting tools.

Hacksaw or sawzall = no go, due to lack of "stroke" room behind the pins.

3" air cut-off wheel = no go, will not fit in the limited confines.

Torch = no go, unless everything around is fire-proofed and heat-shielded.

Dremel tool with abrasive cut-off wheel = will work, but also will take forever; I gave up after spending thirty minutes getting 1/3 of the way through one pin.


Here is what did work:

Die-grinder with inch diameter aluminum-oxide BALL stone.

First, I tapped the pins up, as far as they would go, thus getting the heads above the surrounding metal.

I ground the heads off the pins and drove them out the bottom.

The bottom end of the factory pins are splined, so they drive down better than they will drive up.

I took some brush-on red primer and covered the bare metal where the grind-stone wore the paint off.

An air blow-gun blew away all the little metal dust, so that moisture wouldn't rust it through the paint.

I enlisted the wife and son to hold and support the door, while the pins were out.

They had to support the weight of the entire door, while I drove out the old bushings.

Had they have dropped the door, it would have root-wadded a zillion wires, let alone skinning up the door.

To start the bushings, I drove a sharp cold-chisel under the flanges, thus loosening and lifting them, then used a punch to finish driving them out.

The new bushings were pressed in with the jaws of a pair of Channel-locks.

The top bushing flange goes up; the bottom bushing flange goes down.

A dab of gun-grease was smeared inside each bushing.

The new pins got driven down through, from the top, with E-clips snapped in their lower grooves.

The correct part number for these door hinge pins is Dorman HELP! 38410, about five bucks per pack.

Only one pin comes per pack, requiring two packs to do one door; this is sort of a rip-off, seeing as how the packs for a Dodge truck come two pins/pack for less money.

These new pins/bushings, coupled with the new plastic sleeves on the latch-pins, make the door swing and latch better than new.

I can push the door together and gently "CLICK" it closed, effortlessly.:thumbsup:
 

ttman4

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sticky

Midnight, you deserve a sticky! or at least an Atta'Boy!!!!
I got to do my Dr side. Mine just got bad sag suddenly 2-3 mo ago....lower hinge pin. I been putting off cause of dread. Now I'm not bashful at all about tacklin it...:D

And if Dorman gets $5, FMCO probably get $50.....
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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I am going to tackle the passenger side, the next time I can get both of my assistants here and not busy long enough to get it done.

What is a puzzle to me is that the passenger door is a bunch worse off than the driver door was.

There is a noticable 1/4- to 1/2-inch drop, when the latch releases the big pin.

Common sense would tell me that the driver door should have been the worst, by far, seeing as how it gets opened/shut a million times more.:dunno
 

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