Bear with me, please...I'm new to this!

[unclehoser]

I got the return line kit from a local supplier, and they swear by them. The label on the package reads "DIPACO DIESEL PARTS USA, DPE73100 7.3 Liter Pump Injection Kit". Hope it's the right stuff...I'll inspect it to death. If not, well, I'll just have to take a gamble elsewhere. BTW...what the hell is a "racor"? I'm seeing a lot of abbreviations and such that are foreign to me, but that one has me stumped!

My very first work on a diesel engine resulted in my breaking a glow plug into a cylinder. I use the engine for parts, never did manage to get that thing out. I trust this will go better for you.

Also if noone else mentioned it - the cheap return kits have flimsy collars that flex too much, and there's no way for them to snap down.

Just remember to grease up the injectors real well with assembly lube. The collars should snap down.

Fuel delivery is one of the easiest problems to solve on an IDI diesel. You only have three ecosystems. The fuel supply (racor, lift pump, pickup) - which can be tested at the shrader valve, the injector system which can be tested with a mechanic's stethoscope (that's how I did it anyhow), and the fuel return which will happily demonstrate that it's not working by throwing fuel everywhere.

Happy hunting!

 

[mbolton1990]

I got the return line kit from a local supplier, and they swear by them. The label on the package reads "DIPACO DIESEL PARTS USA, DPE73100 7.3 Liter Pump Injection Kit". Hope it's the right stuff...I'll inspect it to death. If not, well, I'll just have to take a gamble elsewhere. BTW...what the hell is a "racor"? I'm seeing a lot of abbreviations and such that are foreign to me, but that one has me stumped!

Yup!
That's the good kit

 

[sgallaty]

I meant to say fuel filter. I don't know that our engines use a racor brand filter.

 

[furfishgame]

On the passanger side of your engine below your vac pump (which is directly below your alternator) is your lift pump, that brings fuel up to 3-4 psi, through your fuel filter up to your injection pump, check that for leaks. Youll see a metal line comming up to your filter, And a rubber line which goes to your tank. Follow that rubber line as far as you can (it turned to metal and goes up along the frame, still passanger side) check all that for leaks. The rubber lines, especially after sitting a long time crack and leak, which may cause your dying issue, it only has a little fuel to burn. from the filter. Where the rubber connects to the metal on the frame, the line sits slightly above a bolt head, on mine and also a friends of mine, just from vibrating and normal driving that line wore onto that bolt head and created a hole.

Id suggest pressure washing ykur engine bay with lots of purple power so its clean and easy to spot leaks.

 

[unclehoser]

I can relate to that! I own a power washer and plenty of hose, and I intend to do that as soon as I can free up enough time to get back to this 'project'...I have TOO MANY projects going at once...but, since I have to drop the trans pan anyway, I would like to have a clean place to work.

All you guys are just one GREAT source of info! I have no idea how to say 'thanks', but THANKS!!!

Cheers...
Dave

On the passanger side of your engine below your vac pump (which is directly below your alternator) is your lift pump, that brings fuel up to 3-4 psi, through your fuel filter up to your injection pump, check that for leaks. Youll see a metal line comming up to your filter, And a rubber line which goes to your tank. Follow that rubber line as far as you can (it turned to metal and goes up along the frame, still passanger side) check all that for leaks. The rubber lines, especially after sitting a long time crack and leak, which may cause your dying issue, it only has a little fuel to burn. from the filter. Where the rubber connects to the metal on the frame, the line sits slightly above a bolt head, on mine and also a friends of mine, just from vibrating and normal driving that line wore onto that bolt head and created a hole.

Id suggest pressure washing ykur engine bay with lots of purple power so its clean and easy to spot leaks.

 

[unclehoser]

Well, I got the feet wet. I was planning on this project last week, but LIFE got in the way! Started at the crack of sunlight this AM, soaked it all down with Purple Power, power-washed everything, did a quick repeat, and fired up the leaf blower to get things reasonably dry. It was time for a breakfast berak, so I let the dry AZ air do the rest. Glasd I did, too...I would have been a greasy mess.

I probably spent WAY more time than a seasoned mechanic on this thing, but finished up about 1:30 in the afternoon. Unhooked the glowplug controller, cracked the injector fittings, made sure I had fuel at the injectors, and prayed...then, I had a bit of a *** moment. The glowplug controller was cycling, just like it did before I changed the plugs. Thankfully, I found one plug disconnected, probably knocked it around in the process of doint the return caps. After that minor malfunction, she fired right up. Now, I'll wait and see if she lights off and runs for more than a few seconds after an overnight rest...if so, the problem is cured! I gotta admit, there are few tight spots in there, and my old ass had a rough time getting to 'em, but it all worked out good.

IF this all works out good, we'll tackle the tranny next. Serious mess to be made, there!

Thanks for all the help and advice. You guys are life savers!

Cheers...
Dave

ETA: SUCCESS!!! Fires up after about 1 second cranking, purrs like a kitten, doesn't die!!!
I'm a happy man...