steelheader87
Registered User
I have fuel pooling up in the valley pan and around the back glow plug on passenger side. I can't see where it us coming from, but dripping on the ground and leaking bad. Any suggestions, thanks.
Bad fuel leak, need help!!
- Thread starter steelheader87
- Start date
Fuel returns like to do that...
steelheader87
Registered User
I don't have any experience with this, any suggestions as to where to start or look? Thanks.
Check the braided hoses that run in between the injectors and also the plastic injector caps. Gray paint on the braided hoses means they're factory and I'd replace them even if they aren't leaking along with the o-rings under the plastic caps on the injectors (You have to do them at the same time or you will regret it). With the engine running you should be able to see the leak with a good flashlight. Someone might put up some pics to show you where to look.
Ataylor
Full Access Member
Agreed with Ruger. Check the return hoses. Doubtful that it would be a injector line because you would probably feel it driving. It could be leaking from the return junction where it goes back to the tank. This is on the driver side of the engine, very close to the firewall. I would change all the caps, o-rings, and return lines to be safe.
Archie
Archie
MIDNIGHT RIDER
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The most common source for a big leak like that is the seals within the ends of the hard line that feeds the pump; it connects to the pump in the center of the circle of injector lines.
I have also seen the flared ends of that same line split and they will really pour then.
Best is to discard that rigid line and replace with standard 30R7 rubber fuel-line.
The rubber will yield to the constant vibrations that soon destroy the rigid line.
I have also seen the flared ends of that same line split and they will really pour then.
Best is to discard that rigid line and replace with standard 30R7 rubber fuel-line.
The rubber will yield to the constant vibrations that soon destroy the rigid line.
Is it pooling in the glow plug valley in that part of the head? If so, start looking closely at the return line and cap on that injector (that's cylinder #7).
By the way, what truck do you have? Take a minute and put your truck and it's information in your signature. It will show up at the bottom of all your posts so we all know what truck you have and the mods done to it. That can certainly help folks answer questions you have.
Heath
By the way, what truck do you have? Take a minute and put your truck and it's information in your signature. It will show up at the bottom of all your posts so we all know what truck you have and the mods done to it. That can certainly help folks answer questions you have.
Heath
steelheader87
Registered User
I have 87 F350 CC 4x4, Banks Sidewinder, Gear vendor, C6 with 4:10 gears. I have been fighting the #7 cylinder(back passenger). I put new Viton o-rings on and a different cap last night and leaking worse. I am going to International today to get a new cap. Will install that with a new set of o-rings today. All other return lines are clean and dry.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Do you have the cmalps on the hard lines to the injecters. Each side of the engine has 2 clamps. If those are missing you have a cracked hard line and the leak will never stop till you replace it. As for just repalceing the one cap and the two o-rings.. Don't. Soon the others will strat leaking. The best o-ring kits are from typ4 who is a member here and he lives in Oregon too. Please contact him for first rate help. If your sure the leak is from number 7 cylinder then look closely at the hard line or the return line cap on top of the injecter. Any fluids that leak on the top of the engine will only run down the passenger side back of the engine. There is a valley pan drian that will only allow the fluids to leak off that side. Its a very poor design but it works. Thanks for telling us more about your truck and engines. BTW there are two differant size of return line caps too. The early 6.9 has a 3/16 line and the late 7.3 size is 1/4 inch. The 1/4 inch will fit the 3/16 but not the other way around. It really does not matter if the rubber lines to each injecter are in the middle or on the sides of the caps. Some prefer one or the other.
whiteboyslo
FNG
Agreed on doing the whole set at the same time, and definitely source it from Russ (typ4). A couple other tricks:
1. Check any new caps for molding flash on the inner portion before installing. Address with a little bit of sandpaper.
2. Lube the living snot out of the o-rings during install with petroleum jelly
3. Google 'zycam bottle IDI' for a neat trick on getting the o-rings on without nicking them
4. On mine, I didn't bother to replace the return line that attaches to the lines that run back to the tank. For a properly-installed Banks kit, this line runs from the rear-most passenger side return cap, around the front of the intake hat, and to a fitting on the backside of the driver's side head. Mistake. That line was so old and brittle that the handling I subjected it to caused it to crack and leak massively not long after. Truck ran fine; just poured out fuel. Re-did the whole job just to teach myself that hard-learned lesson.
Mike
1. Check any new caps for molding flash on the inner portion before installing. Address with a little bit of sandpaper.
2. Lube the living snot out of the o-rings during install with petroleum jelly
3. Google 'zycam bottle IDI' for a neat trick on getting the o-rings on without nicking them
4. On mine, I didn't bother to replace the return line that attaches to the lines that run back to the tank. For a properly-installed Banks kit, this line runs from the rear-most passenger side return cap, around the front of the intake hat, and to a fitting on the backside of the driver's side head. Mistake. That line was so old and brittle that the handling I subjected it to caused it to crack and leak massively not long after. Truck ran fine; just poured out fuel. Re-did the whole job just to teach myself that hard-learned lesson.
Mike
swervyjoe
Full Access Member
I've had better luck reusing to original caps. Another trick is to put one of the old orings on top of the cap.
Hey you are in Oregeon, PM Typ4 here Russ is his name, maybe you two are close enough to one another that you can hook up with him if he could have a look and see whats wrong? I don't know if he has time but asking is free. He also sells RETURN line kits and new olives.
It is a good idea to do the whole return line system at one time rather than just one cap. Always take some fine sand paper and make sure there is not any casting flash...a seam left inside the caps or you could CUT your new O rings and be leaking from get go!
The Olives are on the hard steel lines from lift pump to fuel filter head and from fuel filter head to IP those should likely get done too!
Hope this helps, and good luck
It is a good idea to do the whole return line system at one time rather than just one cap. Always take some fine sand paper and make sure there is not any casting flash...a seam left inside the caps or you could CUT your new O rings and be leaking from get go!
The Olives are on the hard steel lines from lift pump to fuel filter head and from fuel filter head to IP those should likely get done too!
Hope this helps, and good luck
steelheader87
Registered User
After more looking around, it appears to be leaking fuel from the bottom of the IP. Now what?
bigoilburner20
Full Access Member
i thought petroleum jelly ate up o rings
The hard line from fuel filter to injection pump seals with "olives" at each end under the nut. They resemble a short piece of fuel line when new. Once used they get squished by the nut. The return line kits from typ4 contain enough new olives. You may have a leaking IP or cracked line. The olives are one possibility.
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