Back in the saddle again....maybe

[Michael Fowler]

I've haven't been posting here much lately..... Sharon's health has been poor, and her back problems made riding in the truck impossible for her. Even getting into the truck was painful.
Well she is recuperating for back surgery---fused L4 & L5. So far, the results have been very encouraging. Before the operation she had continual leg cramps and pain. Pain was i 8-9 on a 10 scale. Operation was 7 am Monday, and home Tuesday. She still has pain at the surgical site, but not the other pain, and the level of pain has dropped to the 2-4 level. As per doctor's orders, I removed the dressings tonight so she could get a real shower. LOTS of shiny staples---not my strong suit!. All good news.
Now, that means we may be able to resume camping, and use of the truck. ( Current camper--a 1995 Wilderness 5th wheel w/ a slideout may be sold to get one with less climbing--PM if interested, and I'll provide some details--)
Last time I posted was to get so help with IP replacement---the original IP was dying at 225,000 mile (!!) duh.
I had a good 6.9 IP on the shelf, and installed it w/o turning it up when it was out of the truck and easy. Main reason for not turning it up was that I have no pyro nor boost gauge, so I'd be making changes blind.
The 6.9 IP works great, starts easily, but is seriously down on power.
Now that I may be using the truck more, I am ready ( or will be when the weather warms up a bit) to install the pyro and boost gauges.

Budget is tight (as usual)--What have you guys found as the best price/ value for the 2 gauges I need?
Can I access the manifold to install the thermocouple, or is it better to pull the manifold and drill/tap on the bench?

 

[icanfixall]

Adding grease on the drill bit will help but can't possibly stop all the chips. I thought all turbos have a pyro location built into them. As for being down on power. Did you time the new pump. If not thats the first place to find the lost power and fuel economy. Ask around if a member is close by that has a meter and willing to time your ingine. I sold three of my meters to members on this forum so someone might be close. Or contact me about renting one of my meters. I use the Kent Moore J33300-A meters. They are about the easiest to use because the microprocessor does all the work. They will break down a degree of timing into tenths. No timing lite can do that.. Just 2 probes and its ready to use. Stick the mag probe in the dampner location after cleaning it. Sand clean the number one injecter line to bare metal and connect the clamp to that. start and rev to 2000 rpm and watch the digital displays for timing and rpm.. Simple as can be. I give you my cell number too if you want to talk or ask questions...

 

[junk]

For the money I like the glow shift Gage's. I have a 3in1 gage. It's a single gage that does egt, boost, and water temp. It comes with a dash mounted pod to hold it. Easy to install and has worked flawless for me. It was like $175 for the gage on eBay.

 

[79jasper]

The auber 1812 is pretty good and fairly cheap.

The glowshift max tow gauges sorta match the factory brick and obs gauges.

I drilled it with the engine running.

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[Michael Fowler]

I see that the auber 1812 is a digital gauge. For those of you who have added gauges, are digitals, or analog easier to read and understand? Not arguing the point--just wondering what others thought.

 

[Michael Fowler]

Adding grease on the drill bit will help but can't possibly stop all the chips. I thought all turbos have a pyro location built into them. As for being down on power. Did you time the new pump. If not thats the first place to find the lost power and fuel economy. Ask around if a member is close by that has a meter and willing to time your ingine. I sold three of my meters to members on this forum so someone might be close. Or contact me about renting one of my meters. I use the Kent Moore J33300-A meters. They are about the easiest to use because the microprocessor does all the work. They will break down a degree of timing into tenths. No timing lite can do that.. Just 2 probes and its ready to use. Stick the mag probe in the dampner location after cleaning it. Sand clean the number one injecter line to bare metal and connect the clamp to that. start and rev to 2000 rpm and watch the digital displays for timing and rpm.. Simple as can be. I give you my cell number too if you want to talk or ask questions...

You are correct, of course.
I am just down the road from Delta, PA--and we all know who lives there. But now that it is his business, as well as his hobby, I am hesitant to ask. Maybe he'll chime in with a shop fee. Lancaster is not that far, either. The timing probe hole is clean!

 

[79jasper]

I like both.
Just depends on what the gauge is.

More important stuff, I would like digital, as it's easier to read.


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