Axle seals on a Sterling 10.25"

[02x72]

Ive been chasing brake issues ever since I got the truck on the road, and tonight I found another issue, probably what was causing some issues. I pulled the passenger side drum to replace all the parts and found that the entire assembly was covered in grease which smells like rear end fluid. So Im thinking that the axle seal went out. Sound right to you guys? How big of a job is it? Any help/experience you can share is great. Thanks guys

 

[Diesel_brad]

http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=93890

 

[02x72]

Thanks for the link. So, kinda confused on what seal to get. The Scottseal 34384, or the 34387? I don't want to have to use a press to get it in there.

 

[franklin2]

Go to Autozone and get the Timken seal they sell for about $30. I know it sounds expensive, but it's a multi-piece job and does not use the original boss on the rearend for sealing. You actually put silicone in that area to seal, because the new seal has it's own new area for the seal to ride. It's a nice piece and won't leak. It even comes with a seal driving tool that you use with a hammer to install it.

 

[02x72]

nevermind, I got it looks lie the 34387 is the way you went. Did that require a press to get in there, doesnt look like it but just wanna make sure

 

[franklin2]

Timken 370047A. Comes with the driver tool.

 

[02x72]

Perfect, thanks for the info and part number

 

[franklin2]

Here's a picture from Autozone's site.

You must be registered for see images

 

[Diesel_brad]

nevermind, I got it looks lie the 34387 is the way you went. Did that require a press to get in there, doesnt look like it but just wanna make sure

No driver. I just tapped it into the hub w a small hammer

 

[Goofyexponent]

No driver. I just tapped it into the hub w a small hammer

Exactly! I went with one of Brad's posts that said to use the 34387 seal. All I did with mine was dlean the spindle REAL good,and put a REAL light coat of oil on the inside of the seal that rides over the spindle to prevent tearing it.

Silicone the outside and drve it into the hub until it is flush with the outsdie edge and reinstall it. Then once it is ALL back together, top up the fluid in the pumpkin. Jack the opposite side of the truck WAY up to let the oil run into the hub and then set it back down..check the oil level again.

It's a pretty simple thing to do. Make sure that the seal goes in the right way though!!

 

[ohiozj]

i just did mine last weekend. they are extremely tough to get out, but way easier to put back in. i just used a 3lb sledge and flat piece of steel.

advance auto has the hub tool you can rent.

its a day job if your doing both sides...... very dirty though. especially if you plan on cleaning off the old brakes.

 

[Sycostang67]

The combination of gear oil and brake dust doesn't come off easily. I bought 2 cans of brake cleaner when I changed my rear seals and it didn't do a thing. I ended up using a roll of towels to wipe everything down. I also just tapped in the new seals with a small hammer. Pretty much have to destroy the old seals to remove them. As long as you are in there, dont forget to grab a brake hardware kit as well. It's only about $15 for a little extra piece of mind.

 

[02x72]

Thats originally why I pulled it off, to rebuild the brakes so i have all of that and new shoes. One can of brake clean did a good job for me to clean it all up. I cant find the spindle lock nut tool though. Gonna have to order it from Autozone tomorrow and have it wrapped up an wednesday. None of the parts places around had any in stock, O'rileys only had one for the Dana 80, which doesnt work

 

[Electromag]

I just finished doing this rear end seal / brake job tonight. I used the scottseal from Napa and I bought new shoes and a spring kit, and cylinders while I was at it. Had the drums turned also. The drivers side was a big mess, the passenger side was just starting to leak. I bought the lock nut tool at Napa, they had it in stock. My truck is a 1991 with about 110K on it. Some tools that made the job easy was those brake spring pliers for the cross springs, and a pair of small nose vise girps for the hold down springs. Torqued the lock nut to 70 Ft Lbs and then 8 clicks back off as per my Ford Shop manual. Drivers side has left hand threads. I had to press some parts off of the old shoes onto the new shoes. The axle seal part is a easy quick job, the brakes take the longest.

One more thing, when you pull the hub off, clean the crud off of the spindle in the way back towards the splash plate. I was surprised as to how far the seal rides into this area.

 

[02x72]

So I cant get the hub to come off?? I got the axle nut and outer bearing out, but the thing just wont pull off of the spindle? Whats going on?