Anyone using motive power bleeder?

[llsvegas]

I have a questions. STILL working on our 92 E350 and have a motive power bleeder. I filled it and then pressurize it and holds pressure. I go to the left rear wheel and I get just a dribble, I go to the drivers rear and the same. Go to RABS and the same. What is wrong with it?

I can do the pump and hold method and it shoots it out at the left rear. So I know theres no collapsed or kinked lines.

Any helpful ideas other then telling me to "just use the pump and hold method" I have used the motive before on other vehicles and it always works! And I don't have to rely on the wife while she's working or trying to keep our kids wrangled!

 

[jrad235]

Perhaps the pressure you are using isn't enough to bypass the RABS? I've never had to bleed one before, but I know I had the fluid flushed on my truck after I bought it.

I have had to bleed the brakes on my Thunderbird MANY times, and I thoroughly hate the pump and hold method, honestly it never works for **** on that car. I always end up taking it to a shop with a pressure bleeder.

 

[DaytonaBill]

Ok, this reminds me of my $1000 boondoggle with Diesel Mania in Columbus, Ga...

I ended up having to bleed my brakes and I used a Motive power bleeder and got DOT-4 racing fluid. This stuff was blue and I then pumped the bleeder to 30 psi and started at the rear right, then the rear left, the RABS and then front right then the front left. I was able to tell when the old was flushed out by watching for the new blue colored fluid, easy peasy!

What a big difference that made!!! Diesel mania was trying to use a vacuum bleeder and couldn't get it right... I went from pedal touching the floor to a high brake pedal thanks to this bleeder!

Very worth it, but you gotta pump the bleeder to thirty pounds and check the fluid level in the bleeder after each wheel or you will run out and get new air bubbles in the lines... A big no no...

Suckers don't work because it will suck air in from around the bleeder screws thus reducing pressure needed to extract the old fluid...

 

[llsvegas]

Ok, this reminds me of my $1000 boondoggle with Diesel Mania in Columbus, Ga...

I ended up having to bleed my brakes and I used a Motive power bleeder and got DOT-4 racing fluid. This stuff was blue and I then pumped the bleeder to 30 psi and started at the rear right, then the rear left, the RABS and then front right then the front left. I was able to tell when the old was flushed out by watching for the new blue colored fluid, easy peasy!

What a big difference that made!!! Diesel mania was trying to use a vacuum bleeder and couldn't get it right... I went from pedal touching the floor to a high brake pedal thanks to this bleeder!

Very worth it, but you gotta pump the bleeder to thirty pounds and check the fluid level in the bleeder after each wheel or you will run out and get new air bubbles in the lines... A big no no...

Suckers don't work because it will suck air in from around the bleeder screws thus reducing pressure needed to extract the old fluid...

ok so I pumped it up to 30 and got a little better flow out of it but still nothing but clean fluid at the rear passenger side starting point.

I have given up for today. I have changed my clothes 3 times now. Its raining here and I can only get so wet and cold before having to throw in the towel!!!