Anyone fix a stuck oil regulator valve or am i stuck with pulling my oil cooler?

[crewchief219]

So my 7.3 idi started getting low oil pressure at idle. I hooked up a manual gauge and confirmed it. I did some research and suspected my oil pressure regulator valve is stuck open in my filter adapter. So I tried to follow some instructions to try to close it manually and misunderstood what was what and now the valve is all the way open. I can barely see the edge of the valve and can't seem to get anything to catch and I'm all of ideas or tricks.. am I doomed to pull off the oil cooler? Its not leaking and I hate to mess with it if I don't have to.

Some guys at work suggested filling the hole that the regulator sits in with a sealant like RTV to block the valve completely, just as a temp fix until i figure this out. Im tempted to try it because it would also tell me for sure that the valve was the issue causing low pressure to begin with. Would this be a horrible idea??

 

[diezelcrazee]

I had this same problem and was able to fix it through the oil filter base. Click on the link in my signature and take a look at the writeup I have on my page. Hope it helps.

 

[icanfixall]

Welcome to the forum. Filling the hole will cause the oil filter to over pressureize and blow off the engine. The oil pump can make much more hydraulic pressure than many think it can. That regulater must be functioning properly. Taking it off the engine is the only way your going to fit what your posting about. Now if your talking about that bypass valve you can see when the filter is taken off the header then that something completely differant.

 

[crewchief219]

Thanks to both of you. Deizelcrazee, that's an awesome write-up but I'm still not sure how to get the valve to close. I think mine was sitting cracked open like yours was and when I tried to feel for the opening I wound up opening it even more. I was trying to work the valve to get the spring to work and wound up with the valve completely open. Do you have any suggestions? I've tried picks, screwdrivers and magnets with no luck...

 

[crewchief219]

Icanfixall- yeah, you're probably right, but sure is tempting! Haha.. the bypass valve looks like its in great shape, that one doesn't look like its causing any issues

 

[typ4]

Are you talking about the oil filter bypass valve or the actual relief valce that you cannot get to from the outside?
The filter bypass has nothing to do with oil pressure, just thru the filter flow.

 

[diezelcrazee]

He is talking about the regulator valve, and you can get to part of it with the oil filter removed.

 

[diezelcrazee]

Thanks to both of you. Deizelcrazee, that's an awesome write-up but I'm still not sure how to get the valve to close. I think mine was sitting cracked open like yours was and when I tried to feel for the opening I wound up opening it even more. I was trying to work the valve to get the spring to work and wound up with the valve completely open. Do you have any suggestions? I've tried picks, screwdrivers and magnets with no luck...

Well it has a spring pushing against it, if your putting a pick in the part of the hole you can see and pulling back on it and the spring isn't moving it toward closed then it's stuck pretty bad. Keep in mind that you are prying on the internal piston, so if you burr it at all it will stick fast.

You may have to pull the cooler and disassemble the valve...bummer :-(

 

[crewchief219]

Yeah, I'm afraid you're right. I'll follow up with a fix as soon as I can but it will probably be a week or two before I can pull it off. I've got an out of state wedding this weekend and work the next. Luckily I have a mustang in the garage so ill be driving that in the meantime. Thanks again for the responses!

 

[icanfixall]

Well it sounds like you have discovered you have to remove the oil cooler or at least the rear header to fix the regulater. Before you get that deep heres what is needed to remove the regulater from the aluminum header. It has 4 places where the aluminum is peened over holding it in the header so a very small pointed burr that fits the dremel tools will grind it free. Be very careful because you need to leave enough material to peen it over so it stays put. What usually happens is the spring wears down because its rubbing on the valve. As the spring wears down to about half the wire thickness you loose oil pressure because you loose spring pressure. Shimming it wont help for very long either. Shimming a new valve is the only way to make more oil pressure. I bought a new header and added 60 thousands of shims by making them from stainless steel washers. I learned that from Russ.. Typ4.. Neet trick too. Now because your removing the COMPLETE oil cooler please change the o-rings too. There is no better time to do that messy job. Also ask how others have removed the oil cooler. There are several ways of doing it. I personally have never done it with the engine in the rig but have done it several times with the engine out on a stand. Its a no brainer doing it that way. Once you have the regualter fixed if you do not want to attempt the o-rings contact the diesel dog catcher. Ron has the very special hydro tools and plates to make sure you have not damaged an o-ring. He might want to do that job for you too. His fees are reasonable too. He has his head under many idi hoods every year. He lives a great life working on these idi engines. Nice day job and an even better evening job working on the idis sent his way. Just do not allow him to paint your truck or car... He has this thing with blue...

 

[OLDBULL8]

You sure don't want to take any suggestions from the idiot that suggested to fill the valve with RTV. The first start up would blow that RTV roght into the engine, then you would have some trouble.

 

[crewchief219]

Icanfixall- Thanks for all the info about the valve. I've been toying with just ordering a new assembly but I'll just wait til I get it off and see what it looks like. I do like the idea of a new header and shimming it like you talked about. If i do wind up rebuilding what i have do you have any idea what a good replacement is for the spring? I've read there are no rebuild kits or parts other than seals for it. I'd hate to guess and put something in that fits but is too weak or too strong.. I'll prob figure that out when I get it apart, but if you know of a good spring already that'd be awesome. Thanks for the reference to Ron, I may use him if I go the rebuilding route. He gets a little carried away with the Ford blue , huh?? Haha

OLDBULL8- yeah, sounded like a crazy idea but sometimes crazy works. Glad i asked you guys first... if it doesn't sound right it prob isn't.. won't be taking any advice from them.. haha

 

[icanfixall]

I tried sourcing a new spring but did not have much luck. I'm no spring expert nor do I know where or how to tell someone what I need. Now heres something to think about when your increasing the regulater pressure. Too mush increase of the normal line pressure is going to lift the oil filter bypass vale just like its design. The thoughts are dirty unfiltered oil is better than no oil. My 1937 Cord sedan has a factory lycombing V8 with no oil filter. It has a floating oil pickup. Oh how technology has changed... Suck up the clean oil on top of the sump instead of the dirty oil at the bottom.. Well sure has me wondering how only clean oil drips off the internals...

 

[crewchief219]

Got my oil pressure back!! I bought an oil cooler from gingrass179 and just installed it. After priming and start up I got 50 psi. Much better than 10 on a cold start. Good bit of work but definitely doable. If anyone stumbles on this and is about to change your oil cooler I would recommend removing the lower steering shaft. Its relatively easy and gives you a lot more room. With that off I just had to lift the motor a little and had enough space to get the new one in. On to the next project.. glow plugs problems.. thanks everyone for the help!

 

[gingrass179]

Glad you got taken care of