CDX825
filtration nut
What's the brand of the purple coolant? I'm assuming it convetional low silicate thats precharged with SCA. If your running the CAT conventional that is precharged you should be fine but if its CAT ELC I wouldn't mix them.
Aluminum Radiators On the Cheap...
- Thread starter icanfixall
- Start date
What's the brand of the purple coolant? I'm assuming it convetional low silicate thats precharged with SCA. If your running the CAT conventional that is precharged you should be fine but if its CAT ELC I wouldn't mix them.
alienturtle
Human
Just to update on this. I purchased one from champion radiators. You just cant beat the price and i hoped being shipped within the state that it would get to me in one piece.
Well i didnt get it in PERFECT shape. The only thing mine had wrong with it was the 2 tranny cooler lines are bent over and 2 holes in the box where they pushed through. SHIPPING IS GAY! I have a manual tranny so i dont really care. But in the end you pay for a prodect that should arrive in PERFECT condition. How hard is it to throw some foam in there?
Not a single fin has been touched and the welds look of high quality. Just throwing my 2 cents in 
Well i didnt get it in PERFECT shape. The only thing mine had wrong with it was the 2 tranny cooler lines are bent over and 2 holes in the box where they pushed through. SHIPPING IS GAY! I have a manual tranny so i dont really care. But in the end you pay for a prodect that should arrive in PERFECT condition. How hard is it to throw some foam in there?
Not a single fin has been touched and the welds look of high quality. Just throwing my 2 cents in 
Goofyexponent
Mentally Unstable..
I don't know why, but my cooling hoses weren't threaded in. Mine were taped to teh top of the box where they couldn't hurt anything.
If I were selling these things and shippign them myself, they would be wrapped in pillows or something. they aren't cheap and I know NO ONE can afford to give them away...including the seller on Ebay.
If I were selling these things and shippign them myself, they would be wrapped in pillows or something. they aren't cheap and I know NO ONE can afford to give them away...including the seller on Ebay.
'94IDITurbo7.3
HAMMER DOWN!
Champion Radiators-
Physical Quality- excelent
Packaging- leaves a lot to be desired.
Nuff said
Physical Quality- excelent
Packaging- leaves a lot to be desired.
Nuff said
DeepRoots
Tug Engineer
I have one like this in my f100. it has been there almost 2 years with no problems.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALL-ALUMINU...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item43a97b6cd2
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALL-ALUMINU...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item43a97b6cd2
pennsylvaniabo
Full Access Member
How do these compare to a spectra radiator? I know these are cheaper....
pennsylvaniabo
Full Access Member
Yes. i put my gauge in the head near the back of the engine on the drivers side. there is a square pipe plug that you need to take out and then put your probe into that hole.
I see this plug. I is more or less exactly where the overtemp light is, just at the back of the head. So would this still read hotter than it really is?
Where would i ass one to the water pump to retain the factory sender?
'94IDITurbo7.3
HAMMER DOWN!
Nope. my temp gauge reads 190*F all day unloaded.
Arborigine
Full Access Member
I used to make radiators and rebuild waterpumps for early automobiles and I have designed and make a waterpump system for vintage Lotus sports cars. While this doen't make me " the voice of God" on the subject I do know enough to be dangerous.
"Silicates" are nothing more than powdered quartz, an abrasive. It works by scouring the system clean like a sandblaster. They are insignificant to wear on normal waterpumps but are proven to ruin old "packing gland" style pumps and modern motorcycle pumps. Silcates are chemically PH neutral and have no effect on acidity. I never considered the cavitation issue, but they probably do create a point for air bubbles to form, like seeding clouds. My first change after I get truck running will be the silicate free solution I get at WallyWorld (Zerex?) that I run in my bikes. I'm sure they fixed it but texaco's Dexcool was some bad stuff that chemically ate headgaskets, there was a class action lawsuit and I lost two sets of Goldwing headgaskets before i figured it out.
As to the Aluminum Vs. Brass, comparing tube and fin count is apples to oranges. Its all about the available surface area for the air/water interface and the transfer capacity of the metal used. In most big American vehicles like my Jeepster with a 455 buick, or my buddy's Blazer, a cheaper plastic and aluminum rad cools better than the stock 4 row brass unit, all aluminum is even better. You just can't fix it on the trail. Since i have not fooled with cooling on the Ford Diesels yet, I can't say what works best on these trucks.
"Silicates" are nothing more than powdered quartz, an abrasive. It works by scouring the system clean like a sandblaster. They are insignificant to wear on normal waterpumps but are proven to ruin old "packing gland" style pumps and modern motorcycle pumps. Silcates are chemically PH neutral and have no effect on acidity. I never considered the cavitation issue, but they probably do create a point for air bubbles to form, like seeding clouds. My first change after I get truck running will be the silicate free solution I get at WallyWorld (Zerex?) that I run in my bikes. I'm sure they fixed it but texaco's Dexcool was some bad stuff that chemically ate headgaskets, there was a class action lawsuit and I lost two sets of Goldwing headgaskets before i figured it out.
As to the Aluminum Vs. Brass, comparing tube and fin count is apples to oranges. Its all about the available surface area for the air/water interface and the transfer capacity of the metal used. In most big American vehicles like my Jeepster with a 455 buick, or my buddy's Blazer, a cheaper plastic and aluminum rad cools better than the stock 4 row brass unit, all aluminum is even better. You just can't fix it on the trail. Since i have not fooled with cooling on the Ford Diesels yet, I can't say what works best on these trucks.
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pennsylvaniabo
Full Access Member
So you used the one right in front of the last exhaust port?
'94IDITurbo7.3
HAMMER DOWN!
pennsylvaniabo
Full Access Member
Nah i got it figured out. Going to add a mechanical probe gauge, then essentially have 3 dif gauge options.
pennsylvaniabo
Full Access Member
A little update on this for you guys. Took a chance and bought one from Monster cooling on ebay. It was cheaper than going through champion themselves. Paid $220 OTD I got it a week later and as the story goes.....Bent mount, broken tranmission line ports, bent fins on the core, and metal trimming that a 10 year old could do better.
Here are some pics.
Overall disappointed in the fact that they claim to be a christian based company, yet do not take care in what they do or what kind of product the customers receive. I have contacted them, so I guess we shall see what they say in response.
Here are some pics.
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Overall disappointed in the fact that they claim to be a christian based company, yet do not take care in what they do or what kind of product the customers receive. I have contacted them, so I guess we shall see what they say in response.
'94IDITurbo7.3
HAMMER DOWN!
did you take repost the pics that i took of my box and rad?
same exact damage.
same exact damage.
freebird01
Post Turtle!
i totally understand the need to be cheap...but after all the same claims by 3 different members here.....why in the world go and tempt fate and have one shipped across the country?
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