Alright...my turn

[Shadetreemechanic]

Uhhhhhh...How can you feel it off if you can not see the tooth when you put the IP down into the hole? Im not afraid of the work, I just want to know what is the easy way.

SWS

The gears meet just out of your line of sight with the top gear cover off (the one with the tach sensor on it) If you use a piece of sharpened coathanger you can feel the dimple in the bottom gear and then the matching one on the top gear. Look at the one on the top gear to give you an idea of what you are looking for on the bottom one.
I learned this after removing the timing gear the first time I changed IPs out. I was sceptical not being able to see, but I moved the gear one tooth off each way and checked it again and it is really obvious when the marks are lined up.
I have also heard that you can see them with a dental mirror, but I haven't tried that.

 

[Agnem]

Well, I finally picked up a compression tester from one of my buddies. I have seen the results of a few cyls. Lower than I though it would be, but still not too bad.

The symptoms are hard cold start. Hunting idle when it does get started, runs out of power (like the limiter) when it is cold at lower RPMs, and smokes like crazy (all the time). I have put new injectors in it and am waiting for a few more miles before repopping them as they can't even have 1k on them yet.

Now, this is the confusing part.

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Look closely. Not seeing it?

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What about now?
That has better than 340 in it.

I have another IP and think that may be the problem. I am going to pull all the lines off today and do the compression test with all of the GPs out and see what I have.

SWS

Hang on... hang on... I don't think that is the headgasket itself. I think that is the rubber insert for the cooling system passage. I hypothesize that it fell out of position as the head was lowered, and the bolts were torqued down and it has been crushed in that position since day 1. I'd be willing to bet that there is no cause for alarm, however it's a miracle there is no coolant leaking. I'd suggest cutting that excess part off and having the material compared with a standard head gasket kit to find exactly what piece it is. I have a hunch that I'm right, and that nothing actually "blew out". Compare that piece to my photo of the headgasket (from my headgasket replacement instructional on TDS). Looks like that upper left insert to me.

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on Edit... I'm certain that this is what it is. In fact, the gasket in the picture is upside down compared to the orientation of the photo. So the proper "home" for this piece is really only an inch or so away. The insert got bumped out, and pinched. I'm sure of it. You can even see the little hole that IS the area where the coolant is supposed to pass through this piece.

 

[seawalkersee]

I can not remember if there was a hole in it, but you can see through the passage (from the head into the bloc) and it is sammiched in between the head and block. Like I said though, the reading is HUGE like 440 on #5 down to 340 on like #6 (I think it was the second from the back on both) so I am not worried. With the compression on that cyl being 400, I will wait to put new ones on.

As far as not pullin' the cover, I think I see what you guys are saying. I have the whole thing together (cover, lines, pump, and gear) and was going to swap all of that. I pulled it because the new one has a tach adapter. I will pull the old gear and see if I can tell. I already tried to use a mirror and was not able to tell. You CAN see that the mark in the crank is VERY close to center of the site hole, but there is no real mark (until I am 100%) to tell where TDC is from the front of the engine.

SWS

 

[seawalkersee]

Took a pick with a 45ish degree end on it. You have to mark the gear so you can see the "Y" on it. Slide the pick in the hole and fish around until you find the alignment dot. You can definately see where the pick meets the gear. It is a gap as the "Y" goes on a tooth.

With that on there, I will be able to put it back together without taking off the cover. None the less, it will not be today as I am HOURS behing.

SWS

 

[jtate]

thats straing because i used the mirror and a flashlight and had no problem at all finding the marks.

 

[seawalkersee]

Went to Ford today to get some brakes for my other car and was going to get some coolant. My buddy said I should not use the Motorcraft Gold. He said there were some additives that will eat the seals if you have not been using it from the git go. I told him it was recomended and showed him the cavitation portion of this site and he said he had run into problems with it. He said "smell it" and you can tell a difference. It smelled like orange tang. What are you guys using?

SWS

 

[hesutton]

Plain low silicate ethylene glycol. I'm running a Fleetguard precharged coolant filter with 8 units of DCA 4 to keep cavitation away.

Heath

 

[Jake S.]

My trucks lopes when it is cold when running on wmo. Try a tank of straight diesel. I think it will go away. Could be a not so great vane pump in the IP.

 

[seawalkersee]

Its not so much the lope that I mind. It is the constant grey smoke. I am about out of my stock of used oil so after this tank, there will be plenty of diesel. My spare IP will be on it before next weekend if all goes well. I have a few other things I have to do but we shall see.

SWS

 

[seawalkersee]

Okay...spare IP is on. When it is running, it lopes. I have the aircleaner off because I am checking for leaks and such. Now, with that said, it is blowing air back through the intake. I can feel puffs on my hand when it is doing the lope. What gives?

I am going out today to get some non silica a-freeze and would still like input on that from what you guys are running.

SWS

 

[hesutton]

Okay...spare IP is on. When it is running, it lopes. I have the aircleaner off because I am checking for leaks and such. Now, with that said, it is blowing air back through the intake. I can feel puffs on my hand when it is doing the lope. What gives?

I am going out today to get some non silica a-freeze and would still like input on that from what you guys are running.

SWS

That air is likely compression blowing back threw an open valve! Pull the valve covers and look for a bad valve/spring.

Heath

 

[seawalkersee]

I think that is part of it. I also think I have a lifter or two that are leaking/bleeing off. It did not always do this but of course now that it is getting colder, it does this. BUT, why was my compression test so good if the springs are failing?

SWS

 

[Agnem]

Went to Ford today to get some brakes for my other car and was going to get some coolant. My buddy said I should not use the Motorcraft Gold. He said there were some additives that will eat the seals if you have not been using it from the git go. I told him it was recomended and showed him the cavitation portion of this site and he said he had run into problems with it. He said "smell it" and you can tell a difference. It smelled like orange tang. What are you guys using?

SWS

The Motorcraft Gold is for the late model PSD's. It is an O.A.T. (organic acid technology) coolant, and OAT coolants are definitely NOT to be used in our engines. The oil cooler among other things will NOT react well to it. Like Heath said, Ford is not the best place to get coolant anymore. I'm not even sure they offer a green low silicate antifreeze. Get the pink Fleetcharge stuff if you can. All the wholesome goodness of green, with DCA-2 added for cavitation protection. Maintain with a DCA-2 additive like that sold at a Freightliner dealer (often available from upscale RV places).

 

[seawalkersee]

Ahhhhhhhh....direction...Thnk you so much.

SWS

 

[seawalkersee]

Well...I got it started the ohter day. I had to crank it a L O N G time. I think it is because of the cold and mixed with the oil as fuel. Yesterday it was (the engine) probably like 50*. Would not start. I used some...extra help to get it going and it fired right off. When I did that, it has run. Smooth with less smoke. However, the fast idle works on this pump. It revvs up and stays there. I did not let it run for more than 30 sec or so because I do not have the correct coolant yet. When I rev it up, it revs up much stronger than it did, but then when I let off, it lopes a few times and then smooths out. I am going to try to adjust the pump and see if that fixes it. If not, there will be a vid in the next few days.

SWS