Actual wear and tear of engine parts running waste oil.

Black dawg

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I dont think that it is just the unclean oil that wears parts. The viscosity is also harder on stuff. HIgher viscosity = pump working harder/hotter , and higher viscosity= less return flow= less cooling of pump internals.
 

rhkcommander

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On the topic of the amsoil bypass filter, there are bypass centrifuges that could be adapted in place instead! After I rebuild I'm thinking about trying that out.

I'm thinking a heating element, RUG or kero, couple filters and a strong magnet to catch any iron particulates, followed by a centrifuge would be the ideal setup. I'm starting to collect waste oils to run on this engine but haven't yet invested in filter media.
 

wmoguy

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Working on 40k combined miles of WMO blends in my Idi's

In that time the only damage I've had where some carbon'd glow plugs.

Early on I dumped oil right into my tank with diesel. I clogged filters fast.

Now days I use a centrifuge and make 6-8 passes on it (or until the rotor is relatively clean). Prior to fuging it I add upwards of20% kerosene. I've used rug and just don't like how it runs.

The heads have been off my 94 after about 10-12k miles of WMO blends. The motor had 215k miles on it at that time. You could not tell any excessive carbon or gunk buildup in the motor.
 

kerrynzl

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I forgot about the kerosene blenders, I'd put kerosene a step below blending with gasoline. The reason for that IMHO, is that kerosene helps reduce the viscosity but it doesn't have the cleaning properties that gasoline does. As for your oil flowing through the bypass, I had the same issue until I learned how to reduce my pump flow so that it pumps a steady 83 psi through the centrifuge and none through the bypass. I don't know how much of a difference it makes if you're doing 6-8 passes but it does give peace of mind that all the oil has a better chance of going through the centrifuge.

Kero has better cleaning ability than you think, Old diesel mechanics used to run kero though an engine to de-gum the fuel system but Kero is dry and it lacks the lube abilities [ parafins ]
Gasoline has a lot slower flame propagation than Diesel / Kero so the engine running on W85 will sound quieter because the dwell is stretched out more. This will cause an engine to coke up quicker because of lower cylinder pressures from delayed ignition causing incomplete burns.
You really need to dial approx 4 degrees more advance into the injector timing to help this. Unfortunately too much advance is dangerous [ the oil ignites too early ]

Kero is better for blending than Gasoline but it is usually too expensive so we stick to gasoline.[ I place kero blending a step up from gasoline blending ]

I've been running the same vehicle for 2 years now using blends as my primary fuel source and have no issues except coking around the injector holes [ I pull them and ream the carbon out with a drill bit, a 1 hour job for me ]
 

Matrix37495

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I'm curious how much you should advance if you're running on WMO rather than diesel. Or is the timing going to be about the same?

I time with pulse method so if the oil took longer to light then my 8.5° BTDC is really a bit late...
 
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