AC Issues...

icanfixall

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So my "other truck" was low on R12. I saw two connections that had some very old wetness on them so I replaced the o-rings. Pulled vacuum to 26 or 27 inches.. It held great. charged the system and its cold. Now I remove the low side fill line from the dryer and the shrader valve is leaking big. I do all I can to "fix" it. I even try to remove it but it seems stuck in there somehow. I feel it unscrewing well but the body is stuck in the port. Needle nose pliars wont pull it out either. Any idea how to get it out.... I thought the 100 lbs of R12 would blow it out but nope... Its stuck good.. Might be time to replace the dryer but thats gonna suck some money and I just want to sell the rig. It mt trusty 79 C30 chevy camper special that I have driven all over this country. 1 ton 454 9000 lbs gvw with only a factory smog pump on it. No egr valve and factory dual exhaust. Full power too. Bonansa is the style and not many of them around. Just have no need for it. I just can't figure whats keeping the body stuck ini the port on the dryer.... I learned a lesson. Next R12 fill I will replace the schrader valve. I have plenty of R12. Its just tuff wsteing three lbs of it...
 

SparkandFire

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icanfixall

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Thanks for the great information about these neet tools. Grainer is on my way most anyplace I'm going these days. They are about 5 miles from my home... Works out great sometimes. I don't know if these tools will grab ahold onf the shtuck body of the shrader and free it up. I see how they will allow removel and replacement without dropping the charge but holding noto the fitting.... Nope know... What causes the schrader to stick in the dryer charge port...
 

firehawk

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Another option is to use an r134 retrofit kit. They have their own valve, so that should work even if the r12 valve is leaking.
 

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