>>> A/C ORIFICE VALVE TOOL ??? <<<

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Is this what I need to remove/replace the orifice valve in my 1985 Ford A/C ??

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-a-c-fuel-line-disconnect-set-98118.html


If so, how does it work; how do I use it ??


Thanks.

 

[sle2115]

Those are the tools that slip into the spring lock fitting to relase the spring so you can open the connection. Basically, there is a flat flange that fits in a socket and it held there by a circular coiled spring...these push the spring outward to let the flange slip through the spring. As far as removing the orifice, they are actually to do that, they are just to open up the line where the orifice is...a pair of needle nose pliers is about all I've ever need to remove the orifice tube, if anything. Sometimes you can just grab the tube and pull it out...generally depends on the life the ac system has led!!!

This shows a similar tool being used - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xf8D0dOtv0k

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Thanks for the video.


I am lining up all my little ducks, getting ready for some A/C surgery, and hopefully get this thing back down into brass monkey temperatures.


Step #1 is to install the new exhaust manifold that will relocate the turbo-charger miles away from the evaporator-box.

Then, I intend to completely flush and re-oil/re-charge the system anew, along with a new accumulator/drier.


I am tempted to try propane; I have been reading up on it; and, from what I gather, it is no more flammable nor dangerous than R12 or R134a.

 

[icanfixall]

The propane will work fine but... You know there always going to be a but... Once you have used something other than R12 or R134 your system can never be serviced by a shop again. The issue is the cross contamination of differant freons or other propellants. The very best heat transfer agent is amonia but... theres the but again... If it ever leaks someone or many will die a horrible death....

 

[Devilish]

The very best heat transfer agent is amonia but... theres the but again... If it ever leaks someone or many will die a horrible death....

Don't give Al Qaeda any ideas

 

[Brimmstone]

CO2 will also work. I did that in my old truck in ohio. Talk about freezing. I don't remember what I used for an orifice tube though. Needs to be really good CO2 though.

 

[pegleg]

lets see if all you want is cold air first all at the system as a whole, problem areas are filter dyers and coils, look at the condensor coil, are the fins bent and are there alot of bugs clogging the fins also check the area between the coil and raditor,clean all with med pessure water air flow across the coils is the key to all cooling systems,then look into the refrigerant and compressor with the pressure gauges,most auto stores have the kits. on my truck the air coming out of the vents is 26 degrees I can get it colder ,but the evaperator ices up. hvac is my daily grind

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I had the grille out, a few weeks ago, combed the kinks out of all the fins, washed out all the dead grass-hoppers and a dead bird or two, and cleaned the condensor until nice and shiny.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

hvac is my daily grind

Good to know.


QUESTION :


If all I do when the system is open is replace the accumulator/drier and orifice-tube, then pull a vacuum, do I need to add the proper amount of compressor oil, or just plain old R134a ??

Some have said that the oil stays in the system, others say otherwise.

 

[w4dsb]

the ammonia is not compatable with the components of a auto air conditioner.
we use it for Blast freezing at the plant and it is plenty cold but deadly!

 

[Alex S]

CO2 will also work. I did that in my old truck in ohio. Talk about freezing. I don't remember what I used for an orifice tube though. Needs to be really good CO2 though.

highly unlikely Co2 has a bad habit of going directly from a gas to a solid