'96 Crown Vic Cooling System?

Brimmstone

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Bingo on the civy cars part. I tend to get the stuff that every other shop has hacked up first or is just such a pain no one else is willing to touch it. I'm the only person in the area including the ford dealer who has the tools to work on a twin overhead cammer. I just looked at a Navigator I will likely be fixing with 120k on it. Blown headgasket, horrid rattle behind the front cover and low oil pressure. They're ******* vehicle down here.
 

itsacrazyasian

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wheres here?

I love working on fords. I hate GM. I replaced a drivers door module in a Suburban today (limo use also), aka drivers window switch. Needed to be programmed with VIN and option type. I can't imagine a shop that doesn;t have GM tech 2 connectivity working on something like this.

Btw these trucks are ******* front ends. I put a front end in these trucks every 60K and everyone in Boca has a H2 or h3 hummer. The h2's i see break tie rods so often that i stock the heavy duty upgraded kits.

Personally i think a Ford mod motor (in a panther chassis) and these old IDI's are the most reliable vehicles.
 

Brimmstone

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I agree about all the stupid crap on gms needing programmed. I just scored a tech2 that needs updated for 500 bucks. Just need to get the updated card for it and I'll be good to go.
 

seawalkersee

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Supercharged Panther? Got a vid or link to that? I like them too. I am in the process of throwing on a whipple 2.3 on my LX.

And what kind of upgraded parts are you taking about for the H2s? I only ask because I wonder if it would be a reamer away from an upgrade on my Bronco.

SWS
 

itsacrazyasian

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itsacrazyasian

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is this one of the drain plugs on the block?

No, thats part of the main bearing girdle retainer.

Look at all the rust on it, don't bother trying to touch it. Do it like i said before and call it a day. PM me if you need assistance as i have two panthers here in the shop getting their cooling system serviced and ill share pics of how its done.
 

'94IDITurbo7.3

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No, thats part of the main bearing girdle retainer.

Look at all the rust on it, don't bother trying to touch it. Do it like i said before and call it a day. PM me if you need assistance as i have two panthers here in the shop getting their cooling system serviced and ill share pics of how its done.

We discovered that was not the drain plug when we pulled it and no coolant came out and there was oil on it. we put it back.

We have another issue though. we seem to have a good sized vapor lock. the radiator is scalding hot. the upper hose is hot. the lower hose does not even have any water in it. the heater hoses are not hot. the heater is not putting out any lick of heat on the highes setting. the temp gauge is running higher than normal.
 

itsacrazyasian

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what did you do? is there a thermostat in the car? When i usually flush these cars i pull the stat out so water can easily flow through the motor. When i'm done i usually drain the radiator and hoses but the block contains a bit of water. When you do it this way it keeps the system full of water so it won't air lock.

In order to purge the system, locate the heater hose that comes from a pipe under the intake manifold to the back of the passenger side head. Fill this with coolant/water with the overflow bottle off until you see the bubbles stop. replace hose, attempt once again.

Also your car may or maynot have a heater shut off valve.
 

itsacrazyasian

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Wait the lower hose doesn;t have water in it? How can that be? The coolant bottle hose is part of the lower hose. If you filled the coolant bottle the lower hose will have coolant in it.
 

'94IDITurbo7.3

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like i said when in my pm to you we followed you directions that you gave and ervything worked out. once we started following your directions things returned back to normal. we got all the cruddy looking coolant out.

the problem we have now is the e-fan does not turn on. the temps got up to 194* F without the fan turning on. we can not say for sure that the fan worked before the flush but we drove the car this morning and everything was fine. we cleaned the fan connector with electrical cleaner. i checked all the fuses and they were good. is there any way that i can connect a jumper wire from the battery to the e-fan to verify that the fan motor itself is still working or if it is someother problem.
 

itsacrazyasian

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95-97

have a mechanical fan and a electric fan infront of the mechanical.

The mechanical runs anytime the engine is on (obviously) but check that it is still in good shape.

The electric only runs in those cars when the ac is on and the head pressure is above 200psi or the engine temp is over 215F
 

'94IDITurbo7.3

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Thanks for the info crazy.

yes i have both fans. the mech fan works just fine. tomorrow i will hook my diag tool up to the car and get the temp up to 215* and see if the e-fan comes on then.

i just thought that the e-fan would have come on sooner.
 

itsacrazyasian

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nope. the hotter these motors run, the more fuel efficient they are.


The electric fan on my 2000 is a two speed electric. If the a/c is not on, the cooling fan hardly ever comes on.

The connector for YOUR electric fan is on the passenger side just below the battery on the fan shroud. You can apply power to the fan (blue wire) to make sure it comes on. the fans are pretty reliable though, 98-early 2K had issues with the fan connection which they rectified with a new style fan. 03+ got this weird PWM motor which i used in my truck when i was still running the gasser radiator with the 6.9 diesel. Built a controller that would ramp the fan from 1 to 99% based on cooling demand and a/c head pressure.
 

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