93 f-250 Ext Cab 4x4

[BigNick]

I am considering selling my truck. Giving the mountain of bodywork I have been presented to get it to pass MA state inspection, I am selling it whole, and not parting anything out...

It is red/silver with red interior, which has no signs of wear, other than the side panel where the PW/PDL switches are has had the faux carpet worn off.

it has 186k miles. It smokes slightly at idle and mild to moderately at WOT, due to the one bad injector. Even not using the block heater (which works) it started after 1-2 seconds of cranking. Compression in all Cylinders is good.

Things that have been replaced...

-Clutch Master Cylinder
-All new brake line
-All new rear hardware for rear drums on both sides (new shoes, new drums, new brake cylinders, new adjusters)

Four wheel drive works 100%. Has 3.55 gears. has the ZF-5 5 speed. Bulletproof tranny.

In my sig are all known issues, and I have been very nit-picky on the truck. The clutch is good, and no gears grind or come even close to grinding.

I have the new sending unit for the front tank, and a new mechanical fuel pump. These two parts will address the Fuel prime issue, and allow use of the front tank.

I do not have the set of 8 injectors needed to make the truck run like new again. Only one injector is bad, although neither myself nor my brother could remember which one it was.

This truck will also be sold with the BRAND NEW RIMS (16x8 American Racing Outlaw 2) AND TIRES (265/85/R16 General Grabber AT2's) with less than 300 miles on them. It will also be sold with a 90% ready-to-install pickup bed, just needing some minor surface rust removed on the bed mounts, a few bed supports put on (the 1/4" angle iron supports that go from the bed frame rails to the side of the bed), and an included patch panel for one wheel fender. Also included, will be a new front bumper.

The truck will be sold one of two ways.
As it sits, with steel wheels, junk tires, mechanical fuel pump and sending unit, no spare bed or new bumper. for $2500 The engine and the transmission and axles are worth that

or

for $4000, with the nice rims and tires and the spare bed, and a new bumper.

at which point, all you would have to replace the bottom 4" of the EXT cab below in front of the bed on both sides, and the door jambs on both side. and you would have a completely truck. for the nitpickers like me, the minor nuances that would remain is....

- driver's side window and door lock ( pass-side door does not lock, but window does roll down from driver side)
- all u-joints (preventative)
- replace front leafs (I think they are too low, maybe add a leaf?)
- figure out fuel starvation issue
- get fan-speed selector switch for heat/ac
- replace cab mounts - all of them
- fix right side dash mount
- new exhaust and hangers aka straight pipe

 

[Goofyexponent]

If that's all she needed was bodywork, I would take a weekend or two and just get it done. I just did both of my cab corners, it's not a hard job at all if you are even remotely competent with a welder and a hammer. I am by no means a bodyman, but mine came out flawless.

What are you considering for a replacement vehicle?

 

[dyoung14]

Down here that truck might go for 2500 in that shape even with all the spare parts, if it was perfect you could get around 4-5000

 

[BigNick]

If that's all she needed was bodywork, I would take a weekend or two and just get it done. I just did both of my cab corners, it's not a hard job at all if you are even remotely competent with a welder and a hammer. I am by no means a bodyman, but mine came out flawless.

What are you considering for a replacement vehicle?

94-97 Powerstroke,Must be ext cab/crew cab, 4wd, manual, and the medium blue... I love that blue.

Will pay proportionate to mileage and condition. Any mods are accepted, but hack jobs need not apply.

-------------------------

if you believe that strongly that you can get it done, come down here, and help me with it, and I will make it worth your while. I have no idea how to do any kind of body work. I'll pay for time, lodging, fuel, and then some.

 

[Worstenemy453]

That truck would maybe pull $1500 here. Sorry man but that price is no where near realistic. I bought the truck in my sig for $3K and with almost 100K less miles, pretty much no rust, and it came with a veggie oil system.

 

[dyoung14]

And if it was just the rusty truck with no extra parts to fix it then were looking at around 15- maybe 2000 if your really really lucky im no trying to get you down on price cause i couldnt buy it if i wamted it,

But im just stating i think your price is a little on the high side

 

[BigNick]

And if it was just the rusty truck with no extra parts to fix it then were looking at around 15- maybe 2000 if your really really lucky im no trying to get you down on price cause i couldnt buy it if i wamted it,

But im just stating i think your price is a little on the high side

Rims and tires are $1700... I caught a deal and got them for a few hundred less. They literally have been mounted on the truck for less than a month.

$1000 for them is reasonable.

if it isn't, take the grand off and have steel wheels and put some junkyard specials on it. I'll happily keep them and sell them up here for $1200

A mechanically sound truck, short of figuring out which return/supply line is sucking air. 8 new injectors can be had for $352 from our local Agnes. All new royal purple fluids in transmission, both diffs, and transfer case.

a brand new bumper I am waiting to have delivered.

A completely refinished bed needing only one fender/wheel well panel welded in and painted, said patch panel is included.

The $4300 I was quoted was to take the cab and bed off, attach the new bed, weld in the new panel, replace cab mounts, re-hang a driver-side door, fix the dash mount, remove all surface rust and re-paint the entire truck. So by no means, think that because the quote I got for $4300 is all necessary.

I could have the truck pass MA state inspection (which is second in strictness only to CA) for $1500, with the only use of bondo in it to smooth our the seams where the new metal was attached.

the passenger-side window is a matter of replacing the switch.


this truck may have some minor issues, but it is far from over priced.

 

[Goofyexponent]

Rims and tires are $1700... I caught a deal and got them for a few hundred less. They literally have been mounted on the truck for less than a month.

$1000 for them is reasonable.

if it isn't, take the grand off and have steel wheels and put some junkyard specials on it. I'll happily keep them and sell them up here for $1200

A mechanically sound truck, short of figuring out which return/supply line is sucking air. 8 new injectors can be had for $352 from our local Agnes. All new royal purple fluids in transmission, both diffs, and transfer case.

a brand new bumper I am waiting to have delivered.

A completely refinished bed needing only one fender/wheel well panel welded in and painted, said patch panel is included.

The $4300 I was quoted was to take the cab and bed off, attach the new bed, weld in the new panel, replace cab mounts, re-hang a driver-side door, fix the dash mount, remove all surface rust and re-paint the entire truck. So by no means, think that because the quote I got for $4300 is all necessary.

I could have the truck pass MA state inspection (which is second in strictness only to CA) for $1500, with the only use of bondo in it to smooth our the seams where the new metal was attached.

the passenger-side window is a matter of replacing the switch.


this truck may have some minor issues, but it is far from over priced.

holy cheeeeiiiiiittttt!!!

At this time I would like to turn your attention to this.....

I am by NO means a body man (minds out of the gutter....) but I took that cab corner from the top pic to the bottom two pics for the cost of the cab corner ($50) a SMALL can of bodyfiller ($10..of which I used about 1/3, and sanded 3/4 of THAT back off) and about 3 hours of my time.

I used a Princess Auto 110V flux core welder (Canada's version of Harbour Freight) and a few flapper wheels on my grinder ($30)

So basicallt, for $180 I COMPLETELY turned my cab rust free, and it looks AWSOME. Just a little time is all it takes...and if it don't turn out perfect, so what?! Is it a show truck?

Trust me...you WANT to keep your IDI....we all don't want to make fun of you for driving a PSD ....just a little humour there! nothing personal.

 

[BigNick]

I no longer have an interest in keeping this truck. I bought it because I got it on the cheap, and would work till I could get money together to buy a complete truck. I now have that cash, and while I entertained the idea of dropping the necessary cash to build this truck the way I want, it is just a waste of money. I would be putting $10k into a truck that at best would be worth $6000 when I was done with it, and I can buy a complete 2001 powerstroke that is a far more capable truck. Keep in mind, my needs have shifted from point a to point b needs, to driving a truck that is capable of towing 10,000+ lbs, driving down logging roads pulling multiple cords of wood, and doesn't need anything.

When I bought this truck, I had given myself at best, a $2000 budget to make this truck driveable. I can keep to that, and just fix up some minor bodywork, or swap on the bed.

I know you guys buy these IDI's with the intention of driving them forever. I don't.

And that's no problem. You guys can make fun of the newer power strokes if you want, or you can hook your trucks axle to axle and see who pulls who around.

 

[Worstenemy453]

I no longer have an interest in keeping this truck. I bought it because I got it on the cheap, and would work till I could get money together to buy a complete truck. I now have that cash, and while I entertained the idea of dropping the necessary cash to build this truck the way I want, it is just a waste of money. I would be putting $10k into a truck that at best would be worth $6000 when I was done with it, and I can buy a complete 2001 powerstroke that is a far more capable truck. Keep in mind, my needs have shifted from point a to point b needs, to driving a truck that is capable of towing 10,000+ lbs, driving down logging roads pulling multiple cords of wood, and doesn't need anything.

When I bought this truck, I had given myself at best, a $2000 budget to make this truck driveable. I can keep to that, and just fix up some minor bodywork, or swap on the bed.

I know you guys buy these IDI's with the intention of driving them forever. I don't.

And that's no problem. You guys can make fun of the newer power strokes if you want, or you can hook your trucks axle to axle and see who pulls who around.

We buy IDI's because they get the job done. You are complaining about costs now for just body work and all, wait till you need to do injectors and everything on that PSD. I dont know of any idiot who would hook axle to axle either, that sounds like a stupid and funny video waiting to happen. Its a shame you aren't capable or willing to do the body work yourself because you have a good truck but you do what you want, its your life.

 

[BigNick]

you guys all have nicely built, well maintained trucks. I have a rolling pile that I just found out needs cab mounts but can't be done because there is no metal to weld the new ones onto. oddly enough, the frame is still 90% there though. I don't know how that works.

This truck is no longer for sale. I don't want anyone in this rolling deathtrap. I am going to start figuring out what I am going to part out, and make a new thread.

We buy IDI's because they get the job done. You are complaining about costs now for just body work and all, wait till you need to do injectors and everything on that PSD. I dont know of any idiot who would hook axle to axle either, that sounds like a stupid and funny video waiting to happen. Its a shame you aren't capable or willing to do the body work yourself because you have a good truck but you do what you want, its your life.

The costs of the bodywork would be justifed if they weren't more than the truck... and I would have no problem spending the money to fix it. Money is not an issue here. Principle is.

as far as hooking axle to axle... it was just a reference to power... Ironically enough. my brother's IDI (89 2wd) did just that to a newer gas job chevy.... the guy talked a lot fo crap about how ford diesels sucked yatta yatta yatta.... two 30k chains later, the guy in the chevy needed a new transmission and transfer case (he put it in 4 lo), and my brother's truck was fine.

God bless these engines and trannies, but eff the bodies.

 

[Worstenemy453]

you guys all have nicely built, well maintained trucks. I have a rolling pile that I just found out needs cab mounts but can't be done because there is no metal to weld the new ones onto. oddly enough, the frame is still 90% there though. I don't know how that works.

This truck is no longer for sale. I don't want anyone in this rolling deathtrap. I am going to start figuring out what I am going to part out, and make a new thread.



The costs of the bodywork would be justifed if they weren't more than the truck... and I would have no problem spending the money to fix it. Money is not an issue here. Principle is.

as far as hooking axle to axle... it was just a reference to power... Ironically enough. my brother's IDI (89 2wd) did just that to a newer gas job chevy.... the guy talked a lot fo crap about how ford diesels sucked yatta yatta yatta.... two 30k chains later, the guy in the chevy needed a new transmission and transfer case (he put it in 4 lo), and my brother's truck was fine.

God bless these engines and trannies, but eff the bodies.

Ive seen people go axle to axle and rip axles off. Id go frame to frame.

Regardless. Part this thing out, i would come get it just for the 5 speed but i cant afford it.

 

[dyoung14]

Who told you there is no metal to weld to? why cant new metal be pieced in

 

[BigNick]

Who told you there is no metal to weld to? why cant new metal be pieced in

He is one of the last few of the good people up here. After looking at the under-carriage, he walked me out of ear shot of anyone nearby and told me to not put in a dime more than necessary to make it pass MA inspection, drive it through the winter and get rid of it.

He said he would no longer do the work on the truck, and while he isn't one to turn away business, he told me I would be pretty much burning money.

 

[supachaged]

unfortunately up here in the north east most of the vehicles have severe rust problems,im dealing with it with my 92 cummins.the rust gets so bad that there really is nothing left to work with.