86 IDI tries but won't start

baker1184

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I recently bought a 86 IDI 6.9, non-running. The seller said the lift pump was bad. Turns out the lift pump is fine, but it still won't start. Here is what I've done so far to try to get this thing to start:
- new glowplugs (AC Delco - the only non-autolite glowplugs my parts store has)
- engine fuel leaks fixed
- replaced fuel filter
- replaced lift pump
- swapped injection pumps
- replaced starter
- both batteries are 2014
- cleaned battery cable connections

The engine cranks and smokes, but doesn't start. The "wait to start" light comes on, but it doesn't dim the dome light and the voltmeter doesn't move. You can hear the glowplug relay click on and stay on, but it doesn't seem to actually be turning the glowplugs on. Starting to feel a little desperate here....help!
 

wwwabbit

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I would start with a volt meter, confirm you are not getting voltage to the glow plugs. From there work backwards till you get power, that will identify what is broken/not passing voltage.
 

madpogue

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Your stock truck doesn't have a voltmeter; maybe you were talking about a hand-held. In any event, try jumping over the glow plug relay and see if that drops the voltage more than the relay clicking on. If so, the relay is probably shot, that is, it's clicking and acting like it's closing, but the internal contact disc is so shot that it's not actually allowing sufficient current to flow through.
 

baker1184

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Thanks for the replies - I have jumped the relay, across both main terminals to bypass it and jumped it between the small and large post in order to actuate it. Neither of these dimmed the lights. But, with a voltmeter, and actuating the relay, I could get 12 volts on the other side of the relay, so I don't believe it's the relay. And yes, I am using a hand-held voltmeter.
 

madpogue

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So either the wiring to the glow plugs is no good, or the GPs themselves.

Have you tried plugging the block heater in for a couple of hours?
 

DaytonaBill

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Squirt crack in a can up the air intake... :eek:

Just a little dab will do ya...

After that, you shouldn't have to use it again if you get the glows working...

Oh, that reminds me, wait about a minute before you snort the crack in a can, to make sure that the glow cycle (if any) is finished...
 

baker1184

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I've tried to give it some crack but all they have in this great state is "starting fluid" no ether because of voc's. With starting fluid it will shake and knock but not start.
 

mobilemech

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remove the air cleaner, soak a shop rag in gas, wring out most of the free gas, zip tie it around the air intake, crank it up. the gas will mix with air going in and ignite the engine, with out all the harmfull effects of crack in a can or what ever you want to call it.
 

franklin2

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I don't know what type of glowplug relay system a 86 has, but you are correct, you should get some dimming of the dome light when the plugs are activated. I would find the terminal on the glowplug relay that is fed by the battery. Put your meter on this terminal and leave it there. You should have 12v all the time. If you can position the meter so you can see it, leave it hooked up to this same terminal and glow the plugs by turning on the key. If the meter drops to near zero, then you know you have a power supply problem to the relay.

If you still had near 12v in the above test, then move the meter lead over to the other relay terminal(the one that supplies all the glowplug wires) and then glow the plugs again. If you don't get anything but the relay clicks, then the relay contacts are bad. If you get near 12v, then you have a wiring problem with the glowplugs.

The main thing to remember is always do your meter readings UNDER LOAD. Just poking around with the meter without activating the glowplugs usually leads to frustration. This is also true when troublshooting lighting problems. You can't trust the meter readings unless you are probing the circuit with the power on and all the bulbs in their sockets.
 

baker1184

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A little update. With trying to find the glow plug problem I found that the coolant temp sensor for the cold start advance was not plugged all the way in making the cold start solenoid not always work. Also all the acdelco glow plugs I just put in are dead, a few were even swollen.

So I plugged in the sensor, and ordered new motorcraft plugs that will be here in the morning.
 

franklin2

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The sensor is not that important, from what I have experienced anyway. Mine went bad and my truck doesn't seem to need it. It starts and runs fine without it, and I don't feel like spending $50 for the sensor. I put a manual switch in the circuit to simulate the sensor working, and used it during cold starting, and didn't see that much benefit so I took the switch back out.

You are going to need the good Motorcraft or International glowplugs that say Beru on them. Those are the only ones that last. Also, if you have the older style controller that screws into the engine, those are prone to failing and sticking on, burning out any type of glowplug you use. I believe they sell a updated controller, or you can just go to a manual glowplug switch that you can mount under or in the dash panel. That's what I use.
 

FoolhardyIDI

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When I was having a hard time starting I used my wife's hair dryer in the intake for 15 min in the morning, followed by a good long shot of PB blaster down the intake. It did the trick and got me going for the day until I had time to track down where my problem was.
 

jim_22

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Sounds like you need to go after the controller before you put the Berus in or you may burn them too!
 

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