WARNING....
DO NOT LET THE MACHINE SHOP REMOVE THE CORE/FREEZE PLUGS UNLESS THEY HAVE THE CORRECT TOOL TO INSTALL THE CORRECT REPLACEMENTS. HAVE THEM SHOW YOU THE TOOL, OR UNLESS YOU ARE WILLING TO MACHINE OUT THE LIP/TAP AND INSTALL THREADED PLUGS.....
OK so now with that out of the way...whew....
Not sure what you mean by outter bearings...there are upper and lower but no inner and outter that I am aware of.
Please try to provide detailed close up focused images and maybe we can help with some advice on what's what and what's going on.
If pics are clear and big enough some of us can actually read the bearings and journals and help provide you some edumacated suggestions on what's up.
Sounds like progress is being made..
K reread the whole thread
Check bores for taper and out of round, if within spec and vertical scoring can be cleaned up with hone you are good to go with hone/re-ring and bearing.
These cranks are surface hardened so unless there is significant gouging, a light polish is good to go but check for taper on crank journals
Deck height is critical so no need to deck if you don't have to.
Pulling cam is if taking to a machine shop a very good idea, so they can properly and thoroughly clean block and oil galleys
A Typ4 cam is a good idea or a J2 from R&D Performance. I'd suggest for a mild build a Typ4 from Russ here on OB
You for sure want newer 7.3 rockers
Have heads throroughly checked especially guides for wear and don't let them just knurl guides...that's for a stupid fast cheap redux for a truck for sale
New guides only!!!!
keep us apprised
JM2CW