86 f250 6.9 rebuild/refresh advice and questions

[TahoeTom]

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...?filterByKeyWord=rocker+arm&fromString=search
Here is where I got mine.
I bought the pushrods also. Click on details and the pushrod option shows up.

 

[oregon96psd]

^^^ yep

 

[stealth13777]

This is kind of going to be parts/ engine specific questions; largely stuff I couldn't find googling the exact same question I'm asking.

1. Need to have the injectors gone over. My understanding is with no knowledge of their age, testing at minimum, and probably replacement is needed. I don't know the mileage, but I know they have been out of the motor before and one is different from the others (7 say stanadyne on them, one looks different and doesn't). Best place I have found in limited searching is R&D IDI performance for new ones if that is the way I should go. What about accuratediesel? Test mine and if bad get the remans?? Or don't waste the money testing?

2. Fel-pro perma-dry head gaskets or victor reinz nitro-seal? Or something else I'm not aware of? Machine shop mentioned ones made of metal that don't compress (can't remember the term they used).

3. We mentioned pistons already, but Rockauto (and others) primarily have sealed power rings and bearings. Anything wrong with these/ anyone know much about them (country of origin, quality, etc.)?? I can find clevite bearings pretty easily but mahle rings are less common. Would clevite be better than sealed power? Any specifics on what I should be looking at is appreciated.

Also found napa has kits for reasonable prices. Thoughts? Quality? We all know what a budget feels like.

4. Still curious if I should even touch the camshaft? Wasn't planning to. And should I be looking at lifters??? <<This (I really have no idea.. learning as I go, which is scary on this job)

5. The felpro valley pan set appears to be the whole metal piece. I understand this is what I want. Can always call the retailer and ask as well, but anyone use the felpro one?

6. Allen's Fasteners is the best price I have found for ARP head studs at around $230

7. Havn't called international yet about the CDR valve, but I know it needs one and havn't found one anywhere else. Lots to do before I get to that.

>>>>>As a side note, the engine is definitely getting rings and honing minimum; unfortunately found some vertical gouges in one of the cylinder walls. Hopefully honing can smooth it out; they aren't large. I plan to check the bearings too, and mic everything before buying, but trying to budget out what needs to be done first. I have seen kits with connecting rod bearings and piston rings; I am guessing these are the highest wear parts? Forgive my lack of knowledge on engine internals. Please anything you can share about rebuilding, be it technique, brand, general instructions, specifics; anything helps.

 

[stealth13777]

Alright, well in the last couple weeks I answered many of my questions from above, and decided others simply weren't that big a deal. Still open to any tips, hence leaving that post up there. Finally have the engine out and starting teardown to take measurements, etc. This is where I realized how inadequate my knowledge is, so unless someone on here wants to type a detailed description of everything I should go through on this rebuild (what with it being my first), I need to get a good manual. What do I need for detailed rebuild instructions?

Have either a chilton or haynes manual specifically dealing with the ford/gm diesels from this time period (manual is with the truck in the shop, im at home now), but it only lists the measurements for a full rebuild. Been great for quick reference on a couple questions I've had, but otherwise it hasn't helped much. Everything with instructions is 'in-frame work'. Guy at the shop is happy to help, but I don't want to ask too much. Really mechanically I have no problem with disassembly/assembly, but I don't know how/ what I should be measuring, how to ensure tolerances are correct, etc. so that I can assure a correct build.

 

[oregon96psd]

Buy some plasigauge and check the clearances on the rods and mains, then check the measurments already talked about earlier on the bores. Write down all your measurements and compare them to the new specs. As far as what you'll need... inside and outside micrometers will get you to where you need to be.

 

[stealth13777]

Looks like the machine shop will be looking at a few more things. Starting to get a handle on this whole process. I know normally, the camshaft is part of a full engine rebuild, but I am not necessarily doing everything. Rings are the priority, and I'm going to look at the bearings as well.

Is there any reason to even pull the camshaft out? Am I cutting corners if I leave that part alone?

 

[79jasper]

Well you could throw a performance one in....
But should check it.

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk

 

[Hardy41]

Hey stealth, I looked on Allen's Fasteners and I couldn't find any diesel head studs for that price. What was the part#? I am looking for a set and that is a good price. Thanks

 

[TahoeTom]

Is your block at a machine shop? If they are going to clean it out, have them leave the original stainless freeze plugs in the block. There are 7 of them and if removed need to be replaced with OEM stainless plugs installed using a special tool that very few people have. My machine shop had no problem leaving them in. Some folks have tried to use brass plugs and had them come out. Another option if the plugs are out is to tap and install pipe plugs.
Cam bearings aren't too expensive and the machine shop can install them.

 

[stealth13777]

It is not at the machine shop yet; I am trying to figure out how much I HAVE to let them do, to save my budget, and then also how much I SHOULD let them do, to save me from myself haha. Cam bearings may be added to my list with the re-ring kit, because the price they quoted to install the bearings was not much if I'm sending the block anyway. It all keeps adding up though. True to murphy's law, my car that has literally never given me any trouble (until now) has decided it's time to act up, so I'm trying to balance my skill level with my budget to do the job on the truck right, hence all my questions. Thanks for all the info everyone.

One thing that bothers me is my machine shop comes highly recommended and reviewed, and seem to know their stuff, but they machined the heads (told me 'we don't take enough off to create an issue we work on these diesels all the time'), so now I'm worried about them having the block too and possibly decking it. If I reassemble and have a clearance issue, it would likely be on me. If they do it, the work is warranted, but then there is the cost. Now I will definitely make sure the freeze plugs are left alone, thanks for the tip!

As for the head studs, here is the link: http://www.allensfasteners.com/detail.asp?Product_ID=ARP+150-4069

 

[stealth13777]

Interesting question: it appears that under the drain for the original fuel/water separator, diesel is slowly dripping out and leaving a mark on the ground. Is this possible and if so, how do I stop it? It is doing it so slowly I havn't been able to confirm that's the problem, but the mark on the ground continues to be there.

Other than that, updates on progress. The outer bearings on cylinders 4, 5, and 8 showed slight wear, all others normal. Cylinder 8 showed slight wear on the sides (this is where the head bolt blew out of the block), but nothing I would worry about. I hope to take more detailed pictures tomorrow as I remove everything and clean up the block to take it over to the machine shop. For now, here is where I am at. Haynes manual has been helpful, although none of this has been all that crazy now that I am doing it.

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[TahoeTom]

The fuel/water separator on the firewall wasn't the best design. If used as designed it often failed to seal after draining and allowed air to enter the fuel line. You can bypass it with some 3/8 fuel hose. Ideally you would have a fuel/water separator but I ran mine bypassed for years without a problem. The 7.3 IDI uses a different filter head and the filter has a water separator on the bottom. I found an aftermarket Racor 445 head that fits on the firewall in place of the original one. It uses spin on filters and has a clear bowl and drain for water separation. I still run my stock fuel filter, the Racor is only a 30 micron pre-filter.

 

[riotwarrior]

WARNING....

DO NOT LET THE MACHINE SHOP REMOVE THE CORE/FREEZE PLUGS UNLESS THEY HAVE THE CORRECT TOOL TO INSTALL THE CORRECT REPLACEMENTS. HAVE THEM SHOW YOU THE TOOL, OR UNLESS YOU ARE WILLING TO MACHINE OUT THE LIP/TAP AND INSTALL THREADED PLUGS.....

​OK so now with that out of the way...whew....

Not sure what you mean by outter bearings...there are upper and lower but no inner and outter that I am aware of.

Please try to provide detailed close up focused images and maybe we can help with some advice on what's what and what's going on.

If pics are clear and big enough some of us can actually read the bearings and journals and help provide you some edumacated suggestions on what's up.

Sounds like progress is being made..

K reread the whole thread

Check bores for taper and out of round, if within spec and vertical scoring can be cleaned up with hone you are good to go with hone/re-ring and bearing.

These cranks are surface hardened so unless there is significant gouging, a light polish is good to go but check for taper on crank journals

Deck height is critical so no need to deck if you don't have to.

Pulling cam is if taking to a machine shop a very good idea, so they can properly and thoroughly clean block and oil galleys

A Typ4 cam is a good idea or a J2 from R&D Performance. I'd suggest for a mild build a Typ4 from Russ here on OB

You for sure want newer 7.3 rockers

Have heads throroughly checked especially guides for wear and don't let them just knurl guides...that's for a stupid fast cheap redux for a truck for sale

New guides only!!!!

keep us apprised

JM2CW

 

[stealth13777]

The fuel/water separator on the firewall wasn't the best design. If used as designed it often failed to seal after draining and allowed air to enter the fuel line. You can bypass it with some 3/8 fuel hose. Ideally you would have a fuel/water separator but I ran mine bypassed for years without a problem. The 7.3 IDI uses a different filter head and the filter has a water separator on the bottom. I found an aftermarket Racor 445 head that fits on the firewall in place of the original one. It uses spin on filters and has a clear bowl and drain for water separation. I still run my stock fuel filter, the Racor is only a 30 micron pre-filter.

I will look at options to change mine. I'm going to look for a 7.3 head at the local junkyards and then go from there. For now I think I'll try the 'bolt and hose clamp' method to at least stop the leaking while I work on it. As far as the water in fuel light, is there anything that would need to be done to that if I remove the factory system?

 

[stealth13777]

WARNING....

DO NOT LET THE MACHINE SHOP REMOVE THE CORE/FREEZE PLUGS UNLESS THEY HAVE THE CORRECT TOOL TO INSTALL THE CORRECT REPLACEMENTS. HAVE THEM SHOW YOU THE TOOL, OR UNLESS YOU ARE WILLING TO MACHINE OUT THE LIP/TAP AND INSTALL THREADED PLUGS.....

​OK so now with that out of the way...whew....

Not sure what you mean by outter bearings...there are upper and lower but no inner and outter that I am aware of.

Please try to provide detailed close up focused images and maybe we can help with some advice on what's what and what's going on.

If pics are clear and big enough some of us can actually read the bearings and journals and help provide you some edumacated suggestions on what's up.

Sounds like progress is being made..

K reread the whole thread

Check bores for taper and out of round, if within spec and vertical scoring can be cleaned up with hone you are good to go with hone/re-ring and bearing.

These cranks are surface hardened so unless there is significant gouging, a light polish is good to go but check for taper on crank journals

Deck height is critical so no need to deck if you don't have to.

Pulling cam is if taking to a machine shop a very good idea, so they can properly and thoroughly clean block and oil galleys

A Typ4 cam is a good idea or a J2 from R&D Performance. I'd suggest for a mild build a Typ4 from Russ here on OB

You for sure want newer 7.3 rockers

Have heads throroughly checked especially guides for wear and don't let them just knurl guides...that's for a stupid fast cheap redux for a truck for sale

New guides only!!!!

keep us apprised

JM2CW

The heads are being done right with new guides and seals, they went so far as to bring the springs within spec, etc (something about shimming... idk enough about it)

After resurfacing the heads (I have not asked how much), they want to deck the block as well. Again I havn't asked how much. If this is truly as dangerous as I'm worried it is, I am asking now that someone please tell me so I can call first thing in the morning and correct the problem!!!! Please be as detailed as possible!!!! This isn't a shade tree machine shop, they come recommended with great reviews and guys who know diesels, but they also do a lot of gas engines and after my limited reading they are scaring me.

Otherwise the engine is good, cylinders honed out no problem, pistons are in good shape. The shop is doing the cam bearings and hot tanked it, and I was just going to leave the factory cam for budget reasons. When I said outside bearing, I meant the backside of the rod bearing. So the lower rod bearing. Saw a brief spot of copper on the front main bearing as well. Of course all of these are being replaced, but I will get better pictures when I can. 2014 is proving to be quite a year; broke my foot and badly sprained my ankle friday, in a cast for awhile.