7.3 IDI Turbo Conversion Shopping List

McWilly

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Hello all. Long time lurker, first time poster....

Apologies if this question's been addressed elsewhere; I didn't find the info in a search or from skimming the FAQ.

Here's what I have:
1990 F350, n/a 7.3 IDI, 2wd, 5 speed. Was a CCLB, but I swapped on a regular cab and build a big flat deck to haul around my non-street legal Toyota.

Here's what I found:
1993 F350, turbo 7.3 IDI, 2wd, automatic. Its being parted out because the engine's blown, but its still 99% complete.

Here's what I want to do:
Pull all the necessary intake/turbo/exhaust parts from the '93 and use them to turbo my '90.

Here's what I want to know:
-Are the n/a and turbo exhaust manifolds the same? They look pretty damn similar to me. What I'm wondering is if the tubing from the manifold to the turbo will unbolt from the turbo exhaust manifolds, and bolt up to the n/a exhaust manifolds.
-Do I need to grab the turbo intake manifold, or does the turbo adapter bolt up to the n/a intake manifold?
-How much of a PITA is it going to be to supply oil to the turbo and drain it back to the oilpan? When I looked at the truck last night I couldn't see any supply or drain lines.

Again, I apologize if these are stupid noob questions. This is my first attempt at adding a turbo to something that didn't come with one from the factory.

Thanks in advance, Kyle.
 

riotwarrior

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Welcome to Oil Burners the best brotherhood of IDI guys on the net, check out the tech section and the FAQ's as there is tons of info there that would help you before you ask questions thus enabling you to get acquainted with some basics of these trucks and engines. Sit back and enjoy yourself here.

I cannot speak volumes to your inquiry but I am sure one of the more edumicated members will chime in.

There are differences in the two engines primarily in wrist/piston Pin diameter. The factory turbo engine uses an increased pin diameter. Externally the engines are the same. Same exhaust and intake manifolds and other parts. There is a small difference in the operation for the CDR so you might want to swap the whole setup from the turbo over or you can go with a road draft tube. Again most of this is in FAQ's and tech section.

Basically you just need;

CDR and valve cover, glow plug harness (keeps it simple with the turbo I FEEL) the turbo, cross over pipe from L to R manifold, Y pipe that the cross over goes into, the up Pipe going into the turbo, oil feed line, turbo hat on the intake.

That and if your engine is V belt you may want to swap out that setup for a serpentine setup on the turbo engine.

Al
 

typ4

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manifolds are the same, intake as well, just get everything you can it all bolts right on.
 

icanfixall

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Welcome to the best fourm for free information on these easy to maintain trucks and engines...
The engine internals are all the same in the 6.9 and 7.3 non or turbo engines. Crank, cam, oil pump and on and on.. The only differance you find is the pistons in the 6.9 to 7.3. Of course they are differant but... Some have sleeved the 7.3 blocks down to 6.9 because of the 7.3 having larger head bolt compared to the 6.9. A turbo 7.3 engine has a piston pin with a 33mm pin where the non turbo 7.3 has a 28mm piston pin. All idi engines have the same passenger side exhaust manifold but there is a differance in the drivers side between the trucks and van applications. Everything on the outside of a 6.9 engine will bolt directly to any 7.3 engine. The heads and blocks are drilled the same. One member actually drilled out a set of 6.9 heads to fit on a 7.3 engine with a 1/2 inch hand drill. Now that took some courage right there. The postings before me are correct. There is only one intake manifold for any idi engine so you do not need to swap that over. You will need the turbo "hat" that fits on top on the intake. The turbo oil drain back is into the valley pan way back behind the intake opening. Make sure you have a very good rubber grommet for that. What turbo are you going to be using. Some are easy to buy a turbo drin line grommet. Others are not. Banks still sells lots of parts like this.
 

McWilly

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What turbo are you going to be using.

I'm not 100% sure. Its a Garrett (says so on the intake turbine housing), and I figure its stock, who knows if its been swapped out....

Are all my labels in the right place?
You must be registered for see images
 
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typ4

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I would also get the pump and lines and injectors, it looks like the factory ford system.
If it needs rebuilt let me know, possible some shrapnel went thru the turbine, still worth getting .
 

riotwarrior

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I'm not 100% sure. Its a Garrett (says so on the intake turbine housing), and I figure its stock, who knows if its been swapped out....

Are all my labels in the right place?
You must be registered for see images

Correct! Good eyes!:D
 

damac

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What happens if you find a van? Are the base turbos the same and the piping from that point changes? Do they have different valve covers, air box, etc oil feed/retunr lines?

Just curious because I saw one at the junkyard :)
 

88IDImattman

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awsome this sounds like somthing i will want to keep watch on cuz i would like to turbo the F350 when i get the money an can find parts or afford a hypermax kit
 

McWilly

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So I went and got all the parts suggested and installed the turbo on my truck. Wow, what a difference.

My next question is regarding the injection pump and injectors. Will I run into air/fuel ratio problems running the N/A IP and injectors, or should I be grabbing the setup from the turbo donor truck?

Also, I'm adding a boost gauge and pyrometer tonight to keep tabs on what the engine's doing. The pyro probe is going into the driver's side exhaust manifold. Google's telling me that I'll be looking at EGT's around 800 deg F with the skinny pedal on the carpet, and a max safe temp of ~1050 deg F. Sound about right?
 

typ4

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The turbo pump is a very nice pump to have get it and if you dont want I Will gladly take it off your hands,

And yes the na stuff will work just fine, you should turn up the pump, after installing a pyrometer.
 

riotwarrior

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this may be a silly question....is it necessary to pull the engine for this install?
cheers
benny

Negative....complete bolt on...

Only big issue is pinchweld on firewall....sometimes it needs some liberal massaging to allow down pipe to clear.
 

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