7.3 IDI out of storage ?

[Tyee II]

I have a 93 7.3 IDI with the Banks Sidewinder that has been setting for about 2 years. I will soon be installing it in my F350 truck and am curious as to what procedures should be followed prior to starting this engine ? It is complete, with nothing removed, still has oil in the crankcase. I would assume that I would want to drain and refill with new oil and filter for a very short run on startup and then repeat the process. What other procedures should be followed before I fire it up. I will replace the glow plugs. What brand(s) are considered the best ? I know the Champions and Autolites are considered liabilities. Thanks in advance for your response.

 

[IDIoit]

MOTORCRAFT EVERYTHING!

if its been sitting that long, i would be re-sealing the oil cooler, and the coolant adapters, while installing a new motorcraft t-stat.
i would also go as far as new water pump, new intake /valley pan, and new valve cover gaskets.
along with a new return line kit and replace/delete every olive.

 

[chris142]

I would not drain the old oil just yet. If you drain it and put on a new filter it will take that much longer to get oil pressure. Since old oil is better than no oil I would do the initial start with whats in it then change it after it has warmed up. My Peterbilt sat 20 years and I drove it home! I did change the oil asap. It sat again for 3 years and a used oil sample came back as good as new so sitting does not harm oil like we are fooled into thinking.

 

[riotwarrior]

As suggested...oil cooler rebuild...why because heck of a lot eazier now than 3 mo down road whislt in truck.

Leave oil alone but as mentioned change once warmed if unkown history...if you know has 1000k since last oil chqnge dont bother.

Valve covers would be good so would t stat and lower rad hose coupler.

Look at rear main...make an informed choice as to replace...same with front main.

Valley gasket I would leave alone but do clean and ensure the drain is clear of detris.

Fuel olives and return lines as well

JM7.3CW

 

[OLDBULL8]

That all depends on how the engine was stored.
Did it just come out of another running truck and just stored?
Was the engine ever turned over when in storage?
How old is the oil in it now?
How old is the fuel filter?
Has the return lines on the injectors ever been replaced?
Has the oil cooler O'rings ever been replaced?
Has the Olives/seals from lift pump to filter and filter to IP ever been changed?

Can you hang it on an engine stand?

To just install it, do these before installing. Best to do while it's out.
Replace the oil cooler O'rings and gaskets.
Replace the Olive seals from Lift Pump to filter and filter to IP.
Rotate the engine at least 3-4 complete revolutions, checking for froze/rusted pistons. Use a 15/16" socket on the crank damper pulley.
If the starter is on it, hook up a battery to starter and run it 20 -30 seconds without actually starting for a couple of times.
Check the turbo for side and end play.

 

[Tyee II]

Thanks for the replies. Sounds as though the oil cooler reseal should be done. The front and rear mains were mentioned. How would one make the determination and what are the risks ? Does the pan have to be removed ? The motor is stationary, The frame was cut for removal, so it is essentially still mounted and convenient to work on. There is the typical drool below both seals but no real signs of oil running out. What brand of glow plugs are recommended ? The turbo is smooth and looks to be in good shape. It looks as though I will want to remove it for the engine install. Things look to be pretty tight at the back end.

 

[crash-harris]

Glow plugs = Motorcraft ZD9 ONLY.

 

[OLDBULL8]

For the Glow Plugs, use Motorcraft/Beru only, that is the preferred make.

Hard to tell about the front and rear seals. Like I said, if you can just crank it over with the starter a few times after cleaning those areas and you get any oil out of there, then it's time to replace them, or just go ahead and replace, there not that expensive. The pan does NOT have to be removed for either.
For the front, the damper pulley has to come off, takes a very good special puller. Azone rents them.
For the rear. The seal is mounted in a plate that is removal, check crank for a ware groove, if grooved, then a seal with a ware ring has to be purchased. Search on here on how to replace before doing it. Some people have had various difficulties' changing them.

 

[IDIoit]

turbo NEEDS to be removed during install.
things get really tight with the down pipe and up pipe.
the best way ive done this is to install it before the trans goes in, then you can jack up on the pan, with a block of wood, and it will make it easier for the turbo to be installed.
for some people, its easier to do with the IP and injection lines are off the engine as well.

 

[homelessduck]

I would re-seal the oil pan while it is out. It costs very little and is a huge PITA to do in the truck. I like " The right Stuff" rtv for this job.