I probably rebuild one engine per year on average. Typically I rebuild fairly odd ball or rare motors, I.E. no small block Chebbies or Cummins have ever darkened my shop's floor. I buy the majority of my rebuild kits from Northern Auto Parts. They cater to the hard to find. I purchased a 6.9 IDI kit from them last year, and they were good to work with when I ended up converting it to a 7.3.
You biggest hassle is going to be finding a complete rebuild kit. Lots of bits on extended back order right now. Head Studs, Valley pan gaskets, pistons, etc.
thank you have a valley pan do you normally change pistons my frist 7.3 idi
blown head gaskets person that had the truck loaded it up with starting fluid
have not pulled any out yet look good on top
Bent rods I suppose would be one concern with copious amounts of ether. You really just need to get it torn down and get it to a machine shop, before ordering parts. That is unless you’re just planning on running a ball hone in it and putting standard rings back in it. If it gets bored over, you’ll need the appropriate oversized pistons and rings. Likewise if the crank needs ground, you need to know by how much to know what size bearings to order.
Copy that. Back to your original question, you probably will need to piece together parts from different places. This is especially true if you want to minimize the costs. When I did mine a few months ago, I ended up with parts from Classic Diesel Designs, RockAuto, TH motor sports, Amazon, Napa, and Oreilly’s. Availability is very challenging.
Many suggest they prefer/had good luck with
1) Felpro for the head gaskets.
2) Mahle for the oil cooler o-rings.
3) ARP if you plan to stud the heads.
4) One of the below for injectors or a IP rebuild.
5) Vito o-rings for return line caps.
6) Themostat - Only a Motorcraft one.
Also a great time to run any additional gauges to the engine.
I wanted to post this since it is a weekly question “who/where do I go for injectors and injector pumps?” I believe this has been posted by vendor but not a list. Unlike a oil filter, ignition switch, or fan belt. Buying injectors and pumps at the auto parts stores or worse yet online have...
Thank you for this !!! Am a newbie to the forum and to the "world of diesel". Want to learn to become more mechanically inclined. Bought a '90 f250 7.3l IH diesel with ATS turbo last Oct. Have not driven it much or for any distance due mainly to winter weather and needed electrical repairs (wiring nightmare). Was starting fine when I got it but am currently experiencing hard start and fuel filter light comes on. So, working on fuel filter change (which was supposedly done by previous owner) if and when I can get the bloody thing off. Must of used a "come along" to tighten - waaaaaay past hand tight and 3/4 turn. Saving the "screwdriver puncture" into filter as last resort. Step #2 will be to check glow plugs with light tester and then march on to "next". Goal is to bring truck back up to par where EVERYTHING works the way it's supposed to including new window/door weather striping. Thanks again, appreciate the forum!!!
Not on an idi, but on other engines. Poor quality oil or extended oil change intervals can do that. Rebuilt a vw diesel where all four were stuck, but it also had been running a poorly setup wvo setup.
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