6.9 timing when running a W85 fuel??

[pwjackson]

I have my truck timed to about 9.3 degrees advanced for running the ultra low sulfur fuel. Now that it is summer time should my timing be advanced more or should I retard it more for the W85 mixture. I thought I remembered someone on the 6.9/7.3 IDI forum stating that timing need to be set differently to maximize your performance on waste oil. I know the engine runs smoother and quieter while running the W85 would this indicate that timing should be slightly more advanced for this type of fuel?

 

[Josh Carmack]

I have heard you need to run it advanced for w100, but I can't say, I'm running a 90-91 7.3 on W100 start on W50, and then immediately switch to the W100 tank as soon as it is running. I have done this for the last 250 gals of oil I have run, and I noticed yesterday for the first time ever I had a rough idle at a light after 30 minutes of highway driving. That may be due to the oil is getting dirtier and thicker as I near the bottom of the tote. Otherwise the truck has always run better on w100 if you only use the sound of the engine as your performance indicator. It tends to lose 1 or 2 MPG on wmo. I have no idea what my timing is, I'm fairly sure it isn't stock, because the IP was shade treed 4 years ago. Since I acquired the truck it has sounded a little hot on diesel.

 

[Brad S.]

x2 on what Josh is saying. But I think it might not run as bad as you would think.
Unless you have a exact way of timing it again, meters etc, leave it and see how it runs.

 

[bbjordan]

Try advancing the timing.

I would say you could try advancing the timing a bit. A couple of things tell me this:
1) It sounds quieter when running on WMO. Retarded timing will sound like this.
2) It tends to lose 1 or 2 MPG on wmo. Retarded timing will do this. Too far advanced timing will also do this, but it will rattle like a *****!
WMO actually has a higher energy content and by setting the timing properly should net you a 1 or 2 MPG gain.
It should smoke less too.

Try advancing it a degree or two, and report back with your findings. It is best to set the timing with a meter as stated above, but you don't absolutely NEED one. Just make sure you make a mark on the line between the IP and the housing. A center punch or cold chisel works well for this. This way if the timing change doesn't work out, you can return to your starting point. 2 degrees is equal to .030 of an inch. For reference, the thickness of an American dime is close to .055"! A Canadian dime is only about .050". See pics below.

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[m67tang]

I run 55/45 WMO/#2 fuel. My oil is heavy so I run a lighter mix than most. Experimenting with different timings has lead me to a 9.0 btdc for both my trucks.

 

[pwjackson]

Well I am at 9.3 btdc now so I think I will leave it alone. I switch back to straight diesel fuel in the winter so I don't have to worry about any starting or gelling issues. I am looking a buy a Kent Moore meter off Ebay so I might play with timing a little more if I get my hands on that. I need to get an accurate reading on my mpg before I change anything because I feel like the truck runs well as is. Just wanted to see what everyone else was doing. I am also going to play with my fuel mix as well. I am running 85% wmo and 15% rug right now with about 4oz diesel kleen.. I was going to keep this ratio and add some K1 and see how she runs.

I do seem to get a lot more smoke on my W85 mix so that was why I was also wondering about timing. hopefully I can get this meter that way I can play with it and know exactly where I am at.

 

[leswhitt]

The 4oz of Diesel Kleen (DK), how many gallons of fuel are you adding that too? In my PSD, and after I replaced I suspect injector, I'm not getting any smoke by running an 84/16 WMO/RUG mix with 20 ozs of Diesel Kleen added into my 40 gallon tank. With 20oz's, I can skip 3-4 tanks without getting hardly any smoke increase and then I'll dump another 20 oz in.

At times when I have an anomaly tank that just isn't "right", I'll add 40-60 oz of DK and while the smoke might not disappear completely, it's MUCH MUCH better.

 

[pastorjeep]

All right, I have been lurking for years and now I am a bonafide diesel owner running on W85 in an 84 f250 6.9. The first 4000 miles I put on this truck were on WVO, but my sources dried up I just gained access to hundreds of gallons of 15-40 from a farm. The question I have is are there any members in my neighborhood (eastern NC, Southeastern VA) who could help me time my truck. The pump was set to the factory straight up mark and I advanced it the width of a dime and the ole girl seemed like a different truck, but it is rattling pretty hard and I don't want to ruin a great engine. Any help would be greatl

 

[idiabuse]

I have taken a used oil sample with 250 hours on it and I can say is I am glad I run and use a BYPASS filter because my wear metals are through the roof! But everything else on the oil analysis checked in good.
So you guys need to think about the quality of your filtration and the length of your oil drain.
I plan on doing a bit more research before I start changing oil, My sample was taken around 15,000 miles on a new engine.

I run waste motor oil and old stale gas mixed in around 90/10 or so, usually 5 gallons on top of 50 gallons.

Engine runs just fine, starts better than USDSL for me. I actually think the USDSL is worse for my injection pump due to the fact it has less lubricity and it is easier to get air in the lines with the clear stuff.


Javier

 

[Brad S.]

I have taken a used oil sample with 250 hours on it and I can say is I am glad I run and use a BYPASS filter


Javier

After reading this again I caught the bypass filter quote.
Do you mean your running a second engine oil filter in addition to the stock filter???
AND with you running wmo, do you think any of the particles in the engine oil are from the wmo???
Thanks.

 

[idiabuse]

After reading this again I caught the bypass filter quote.
Do you mean your running a second engine oil filter in addition to the stock filter???
AND with you running wmo, do you think any of the particles in the engine oil are from the wmo???
Thanks.

Oh yes the excessive metals and additives showing up in my oil most definitely come from WMO.
Kicking myself for not spending extra coin for some total seal rings when I built my engine .

Yes I mounted and run an additional filter to catch these particles and remove them from the sump oil.

My next test will have to be a particle count test to measure the sizes of the particles and how many are actually floating around in there.
The other fields of the analysis are normal for 250 hours on lubricant in a diesel engine.

Javier

 

[Brad S.]

How did you tap into the oil system? and return etc.
That sounds interesting.
Does your main oil filter "last" longer???

 

[leswhitt]

Does your engine "make" oil, i.e. do you have that much fuel leaking past the rings?

Also, and I apologize if I've asked before and didn't see it, but do you use filters or a centrifuge to clean up your WMO?

 

[idiabuse]

How I clean my WMO

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[idiabuse]

Does your engine "make" oil, i.e. do you have that much fuel leaking past the rings?

Also, and I apologize if I've asked before and didn't see it, but do you use filters or a centrifuge to clean up your WMO?

No it does not make oil, but the high wear metals in the oil sample are from the combustion leaking past the gaps in the piston rings, If I would of used/purchased the total seal second ring design, maybe the used oil analysis would of had different results...


Javier