6.9 factory 7.3 ats installation questions

[79jasper]

Is yours a one piece crossover pipe? I would save cutting it as a last resort. You could bolt one side mostly tight, then use a ratchet strap to pull the other side over.
I bought a set of exhaust bolts from orielly I think.

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[Lumberjack84]

Yes it is. i Used a ratchet strap earlier but that was off the truck haha I'll try it on the truck tomorrow once I get the intake snail on the turbo (wanted to see if the everything went together first) you remember what size did you get as I have one nut from the driver side that I forgot to bring to the store? going tomorrow I'll be able to grab another roll of gasket material as mine disappeared and need a gasket for the snail. also grab some more exhuast clamps, took heavy throttle to get a faint whistle with the down pipe barely hooked up and the crossover leaking as I could only get it barely sealed hence the offset, should I expect more from the exhuast being all good and the intake on? and should i seal the oil drain grommet with rtv? then lastly I think is the turbo cdrs are different. tube is too long but I'm making mine work for now and it doesn't have a hose attachment either so a hose is pushed an inch into the hole. still gotta figure out the trans tube as well. thanks again

 

[79jasper]

Sorry, don't remember the size.
Sealing up the exhaust and intake snail will make a huge difference.
I can't say on the oil drain grommet. If it seems to be sealing fine, I would leave it alone.
Not sure on the cdr, I'd have to see a picture.

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[Lumberjack84]

alright, I'm gonna bring the whole pipe in as the one stud is attached to when the they took it off the other truck and didn't want to bother taking it out. and when I tried to get the snail on before installed everything it was hard to make it past the o ring and wouldn't go on. lube it up? also need to get the boost line through the firewall, wondering if there's already a good spot to go through? and here is my setup, to short to bolt to the valve cover and is wired for now just for testing everything

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[typ4]

The exhaust studsa are 7/16 course thread, not metric. Did you remove the studs from the passenger side manifold? they need to come out , the Y will not fit right with the factory headed studs in there. It will leak, a lot. The crossover should fit without cutting, they are kind of picky to get to fit. Is your cdr tube rubber on the bottom or metal, it may be an early one.
also I have 50 oem drain grommets in stock.

 

[Lumberjack84]

I got 7/16x16 nuts and a bolt and they didn't fit and they are course. and now i have to remove the studs just gonna do the two nut method I guess. it just it seemed to seal from the looks of it. It is a metal tube and is too long to fit down to bolt to the valve cover, thinking about just getting a tube that will fit it and be able to bolt it down. i have a drain grommet that everything fit into we'll see over time if it holds or leaks. this thing is stressing me left and right now.

 

[typ4]

The factory studs in the manifold have a hex on them to remove them, , if yours dont the Y collector will seal fine. The threads are 7/16, buy a tap and chase them.

 

[Lumberjack84]

My manifolds do not have the hex on them. I looked at a 093 parts layout and it looked like they said 7/16-14. I'll by a tap as they could use it. the up pipe is basically all thats holding back besides the trans tube and exhuast. not gonna be too loud with a banks DP to 3.5 straight back dumped in front of rear wheel? sorry all the questions jus trying to figure things out. Thanks for the help Russ much appreciated

 

[79jasper]

The turbo will quite it down a bit.

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[Lumberjack84]

okay good cause I've ran straight before and it was loud only good part was downshifting and hearing basically a jake sound I thought the turbo would quiet it down from what i read. back to down shifting who else downshifts an auto descending grades and stopping? I know I do it and it helps slowing down, I ride second from the top of a windy downhill 1/2-3/4 mile (don't exactly know how long) all the way down staying at 35-40 no brakes before my house and when ever i do this with someone in the cab they look at me like I'm crazy for "shifting" my auto down.

 

[79jasper]

You can downshift a auto like that. Imo, best with a converter lock up switch.
I like the non turbo straight pipe exhaust brake sound. My gm 6.2 diesel sounded just like a detriot.

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[Lumberjack84]

yeah, i've always downshifted and upshifted autos basically all the time and especially when towing on grades. lot of people I know up where I live never heard of it and say its dumb. stepdads brakes on the 03 f150 were original at 69k cause we always downshift and don't use the breaks as much. my buddy put a banks on his 6.2 with a hood stack and it's not too loud actually and one day we got in the dirt being 2wd and he was 4wd but no front drive line we pulled off just to see and have some fun making sure nothing got broke though and no body moved, he didn't budge me or anything. some serious coal from both though just got back with from the store, got some hose to make my dipstick tube flexible and the bolts and nuts for the exhaust

 

[79jasper]

Let us know if it works.

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[Lumberjack84]

well Didn't look like it would work so I took the section that went to trans and put a bolt in a vac hose in the end to seal it off for now. just gotta finish up exhuast, get the intake tubes cleaned up and sealed and the threaded heater hose barb I'm using for attaching the cdr hose to. then the boost gauge hooked up along with my vacuum lines put back on with new ones, flush the coolant as I've been running distilled water and clr after the first flush in it for a week before I started the turbo and it isn't rusted anymore and is clear so after that one more just distilled flush and then the distilled and fleetcharge will go in. heres a vid of it with the down pipe on but the clamped wasn't really sealed all the way, sounds better now that it is
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=46pD3yYoa38&feature=youtu.be

 

[Lumberjack84]

update for everyone. it went well, all done, fixed the exhaust leak on crossover: before I did I had exhuast in cab, 0psi when cruising and 6psi max to the floor (haven't touched pump as I was 2 1/2 or 3 flats give or take when N/A) and the performance wasn't much and wasn't burning most of the fuel and not a lot of whistle. after: 3-4 psi cruising and 8-9 psi to the floor, way better performance not a slouch on hills or anywhere actually, can cruise right along no hassle, fuel seems to be burning most of the way only black smoke is on downshift and acceleration or when I get on it but not much. lot more whistle, quieter exhaust as well. thank you all! gonna get a vid soon of it now, also plan on getting a bhaf